5Series.net - Forums - E60 Discussion https://5series.net/forums/ Anything and everything to do with the E60 5 Series. All are welcome! en Mon, 18 May 2026 04:37:28 GMT vBulletin 60 https://5series.net/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg 5Series.net - Forums - E60 Discussion https://5series.net/forums/ Bent subframe vs worse? https://5series.net/forums/e60-discussion-2/bent-subframe-vs-worse-154624/ Tue, 28 Apr 2026 19:09:05 GMT Long story short, I found that my car at the very least has a tweaked front subframe.

Doing the front suspension parts, the driver's arms all came out as expected. The passenger side thrust arm was very firm inside of the mount tabs. I had to spread the mount ears apart with a bolt and nut to get the new thrust arm in, as it was 1mm too narrow. The control arm went in and out fine.

The passenger side had also been replaced by cheapass parts store parts - strut, thrust arm, sway bar link were Monroe/Moog/OESpectrum. I went ahead and replaced the spindle on this side as well. After everything, the car aligns out evenly but there is a ~1 degree caster difference, and the right wheel sits maybe 1.5cm back in the wheel well compared to the left. The car drives fine aside from a very slight drift to the right if the road is not perfectly flat that I did not even notice before I went after the front suspension. Nonetheless I don't like it being messed up like this and would like to remedy the problem after I fix a couple more nagging issues (clacky lifter/follower replacement & new AT servos).

Given that I found the thrust arm mount tab is tweaked, it seems that the impact was possibly from a curbing and the thrust arm was pulled and twisted straight backwards which is now making the whole strut assembly sit slightly wrong. There is no visible cracking, scrapes, etc on the subframe itself. The underbody panels are all still there, the headlight leveling sensor was present and undamaged, the headlight is still original, wheelhouse, etc etc.

My question: if I go through the trouble to drop the subframe to replace it with a good used one, is there any reason to expect to find the upper part of the unibody is tweaked where the subframe bolts through? I can't think of why there would be, given the impact seemed to originate "through" the suspension itself vs the body, but I am not familiar this chassis in that regard. I have read of others having to replace subframes after similar previous-moron incidents, like driving over large objects on the freeway. Just hoping for any caution or encouragement before I plan on the job. ]]> E60 Discussion Secret Chimp https://5series.net/forums/e60-discussion-2/bent-subframe-vs-worse-154624/ <![CDATA['07 550i no AC with no clear cause]]> https://5series.net/forums/e60-discussion-2/07-550i-no-ac-no-clear-cause-154623/ Mon, 20 Apr 2026 17:34:29 GMT Hi - I posted on this subject last August but did a poor job of diagnoses before posting, so I've done a fair amount of research since then but haven't found a similar issue so thought I'd try here with more information.

Had this car since '09, second owner. 115K miles. Never had an issue with the AC til now. Started last fall so hasn't been too much of an issue until the weather started warming up recently. When this first happened I ran codes and had both an AUC sensor and fogging sensor fault and replaced both but no change in behavior. Compressor is definitely kicking on so that doesn't appear to be the culprit. Thought the refrigerant might be low so put an AC recharger on the high side port but refrigerant showed overcharged so ended up leaving it until now with the weather getting warm.

Tried again today, still blowing warm. Put the Foxwell on it and showed another Fogging sensor fault but cleared it and it has not come back.

So ran live diagnostics and got the following:
* Compressor Refrigerant Capacity: 93%
* Refrigerant pressure sensor supply: 4.98V
* Refrigerant pressure: 8.0 bar
* Fan Control Wheel: 100%
* Outside Temperature: 100 deg
* Evaporator temperature: 98 deg
* Interior Temperature: 92 deg
* Fogging Sensor if installed: 97.33 Hz
* Fogging Sensor power supply if installed: 4.98V
* Compressor refrigerating capacity: 93%

The AC was working fine last summer until this happened, and I didn't touch anything on the AC system. The only possible correlation I can think of is I replaced the plastic cowl cover last year and disconnected and reconnected the AUC sensor as part of the install. I had the AUC sensor fault after that but I don't know if it was their prior to the cowl work, but I can't recall if the AC stopped working immediately after I disconnected and reconnected the sensor or if this happened later. I did replace the AUC sensor when I discovered the fault and I no longer have the fault, but from what I can see its a stretch to connect the AUC sensor to a non-functioning AC. The fogging sensor can wonk up the AC, but typically it appears to only affect some of the vents and all of my vents are blowing warm.

Any ideas? I'm not an AC expert but everything seems to be functioning as it should and didn't want to start throwing parts at it if I can get a better idea of the where the problem lies. ]]> E60 Discussion nine28 https://5series.net/forums/e60-discussion-2/07-550i-no-ac-no-clear-cause-154623/ How to Time BMW E60 M57 Engine | 525d 530d 535d Timing Chain Guide https://5series.net/forums/e60-discussion-2/how-time-bmw-e60-m57-engine-%7C-525d-530d-535d-timing-chain-guide-154622/ Sat, 18 Apr 2026 21:05:51 GMT Short video below showing my experience with the BMW E60 M57 engine timing. The video guidance is valid and applicable for the BMW E60 520d, 525d, and 530d models. https://youtu.be/VmSGP9mOK24 Short video below showing my experience with the BMW E60 M57 engine timing.
The video guidance is valid and applicable for the BMW E60 520d, 525d, and 530d models.

]]> E60 Discussion KKDriver https://5series.net/forums/e60-discussion-2/how-time-bmw-e60-m57-engine-%7C-525d-530d-535d-timing-chain-guide-154622/