I'm guessing the SAT Flash applies to the turbo engines correct?

I took my 07 to an Indy yesterday to get a quote on doing the transfer case fluid, front/rear diffs, and tranny fluid refresh. They pulled the undercover off and we found that the front diff is leaking at the input shaft seal...so that got added to the list of things to do....dang. If the transfer case fluid wasn't such a bitch with having to drop the exhaust, I'd plan to do it myself, but I've yet to find a straight forward way to do it.

-r

 

bought it! ... and the window regulator died on the drive home :\

 

@oclvframe
SAT flash is on ecu GKE215 with a 535

finally dropped in some 20w a side angels..

 

Enjoying the planted handling?

I wouldn't use the 2nd hole on the front, maybe on the rear if you really haul a lot of stuff often. This isn't a race car or on a track often enough to offset the reduction in real world driving traction caused by sway bars set too stiff. Even on the softest setting the ride will be MUCH better than stock and actually safer overall that on the middles or higher. This info is from both RD and from a racing friend of mine with 20 years experience on the track in all sorts of vehicles as an instructor and competitor.

I have had NO sounds at all from mine. Did the shop use the lubricant supplied with them? Did they take care in how all the parts went together?

 

Month ago or so I installed the RD Sport sway bars. Loving the handling. Also installed the Oil Catch Can from Berger Motorsports. Unscrewed it today and so far it's dry, thought it might be oily!

Last week: Philips and Osram led lights for all interior lamps that come on when doors open or front center dome lamp button is engaged. Also for the "puddle" lamps under the 4 door edges. Most are W5W simple "wedge". Rear cargo hatch center lamp is a Festoon type of 43mm in length and the front footwell lights are festoon 38mm. 4000k for all as I like more of a true white to the eye, not blue looking 6000k Power draw is about 1/10 of the standard incandescent bulbs! I have my car open often for various reasons.

This week: new AGM battery and several hour programming of car to set up the new battery type (old battery was lead acid, not only do you have to "register" it but the car has to be told how to charge it properly)

Also, had the roof drain on right side cleared out as water was starting to appear in battery compartment. Spare tire well with all the electronic modules was always 100% dry but supposedly that area can get wet if drains clog up worse.

Tomorrow: new summer tires. After months of research and comparing, I'm going to try the Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season "plus" which is a "low rolling resistance" tire with 700 tread wear, 70,000 mile/unlimited years wear warranty in size 245/45x18 non-run flat with full size spare. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....ll+Season+Plus

Runner up tire I wanted to try instead is the new Michelin "Premier" All Season. I'm still on the fence about it actually. I have some so far very awesome Michelins on the land rover. (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....ASXL&tab=Sizes)

 

I realize the treadwear warranty isn't quite as high but for spirited driving (esp. with stiffer sways) wouldn't a sportier tire be more appropriate? I am planning on putting on Michelin Pilot A/S 3s when my PS 2s wear out. They are a perfect balance of really good treadwear and awesome sport traction.

-r

 

Nice! You been busy! 2 questions for you.

For your battery, are you coding it yourself?

Lastly, to clear your drains, how are you doing it? I was going to attempt mine, but I don't think attacking it from the bottom of the tube, where it drains at the rear is the best way. Did you maybe blow compressed air in the two holes in the sunroof drain guide?

I replaced my puddle lights with ones that project the M logo, like in this pic:


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If anyone decides to get them, make sure to get the plug and play type, like in this pic, and not the ones that just have two wires on the end.

 

I thought you knew WE cannot "program" this battery. It has to be done at the dealer with proper tools/software when going from lead acid to AGM. It is not the same/as simple, as changing out the same kind of previous battery. Going forward it would be simple now that the programming is done or had I replaced it with another lead acid type.

I did not do the drains either. They took apart part of the rear area to pull/access them. I think before being too clogged one might be able to use compressed air but anyway it's done and didn't cost much while it was already in the shop.

 

Thanks for the other option to compare.

First of all, the way this car is used, the A/S 3 is not necessary and those tires would rarely get utilized to their potential.

That A/S3 is also only an SL load rating where as the way I use my wagon it should have an XL with higher psi rating. I also like the generally stiffer sidewall of an XL.

Overall, I bet that's a great tire but I think it would also wear out much quicker. I am leaning toward the Michelin Premier now due to it's symmetrical design which will allow me to flip the tires once a year to even out the inner edge wear. I am betting the A/S 3 would only last me 30k at best due to not being able to flip the tires to even out the inner wear and the loads being carried.

 

I'm positive that it's doable at home I've read, as I've been gathering info on it for a bit. With the BMW software that is, like NCS whatever.

Just did a quick search and came across this for example:

Bimmerfest - BMW Forums - View Single Post - Battery Replacement in BMW E60 5 series – DIY

I know people including some forum vendors even do it remotely, with your own cable, or with theirs (that you borrow with a deposit), like this guy:

Coding Review Alex@Alpine - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums