standart stereo upgrade to HiFi
#1
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hello.
i have standart stereo system which contains 6 speakers, 2- door, 2 subs and 2 in the rear (without AMP)
as i saw in schematic so the subs ar paired with front speakers. and as i read all posts regarding audio upgrade then many bmw users add tweets into front doors and drive subs thru amp, and also as i look at schematic its very similar to Hifi system connection.
if i want such upgrade perform then i need also some CCC/M-ASK unit coding or no?
i have standart stereo system which contains 6 speakers, 2- door, 2 subs and 2 in the rear (without AMP)
as i saw in schematic so the subs ar paired with front speakers. and as i read all posts regarding audio upgrade then many bmw users add tweets into front doors and drive subs thru amp, and also as i look at schematic its very similar to Hifi system connection.
if i want such upgrade perform then i need also some CCC/M-ASK unit coding or no?
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My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
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if you want to go from Stereo to Hi-Fi, you will need to code the CCC as such. Then you will need to take the low outputs from the CCC and feed them through an amp and then into the underfloor subs. Depending on what amp you choose you have to change your subs as well.
#4
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Hi,
The standard stereo CCC does not have low signal outputs, so coding will not help to achieve an upgrade. As you have already said, many upgrade by fitting tweeters in the door (80% improvement) and then adding an amp and better (Earthquake) subs under the seats. The tweeters and amp both take their input from the speaker outputs from the CCC, so the car is no wiser and needs no coding changes.
I have:
Tweeters in the doors and roof (I have a touring)
Earthquake subs
Logic 7 mid dooor speakers
Amps for both the door mids and subs
Sounds amazing and all looks totally stock.
The standard stereo CCC does not have low signal outputs, so coding will not help to achieve an upgrade. As you have already said, many upgrade by fitting tweeters in the door (80% improvement) and then adding an amp and better (Earthquake) subs under the seats. The tweeters and amp both take their input from the speaker outputs from the CCC, so the car is no wiser and needs no coding changes.
I have:
Tweeters in the doors and roof (I have a touring)
Earthquake subs
Logic 7 mid dooor speakers
Amps for both the door mids and subs
Sounds amazing and all looks totally stock.
#5
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Hi,
The standard stereo CCC does not have low signal outputs, so coding will not help to achieve an upgrade. As you have already said, many upgrade by fitting tweeters in the door (80% improvement) and then adding an amp and better (Earthquake) subs under the seats. The tweeters and amp both take their input from the speaker outputs from the CCC, so the car is no wiser and needs no coding changes.
I have:
Tweeters in the doors and roof (I have a touring)
Earthquake subs
Logic 7 mid dooor speakers
Amps for both the door mids and subs
Sounds amazing and all looks totally stock.
The standard stereo CCC does not have low signal outputs, so coding will not help to achieve an upgrade. As you have already said, many upgrade by fitting tweeters in the door (80% improvement) and then adding an amp and better (Earthquake) subs under the seats. The tweeters and amp both take their input from the speaker outputs from the CCC, so the car is no wiser and needs no coding changes.
I have:
Tweeters in the doors and roof (I have a touring)
Earthquake subs
Logic 7 mid dooor speakers
Amps for both the door mids and subs
Sounds amazing and all looks totally stock.
i also have a touring
![Wink](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/wink.gif)
so, You signal front speaker signal and run it to amp (3chanel or 4chanel)
from where You take remote wire?
PS. im not audio guru and don quite understand all about this audio systems, but what i see into wiring schematic for HiFi system, then amp remote wire pin 13, ground - 10, + - 3, signal out "-" pin 9 and signal + pin 4, and this amp drives subs. so as i understand there is low and it little bit confused what You said about low outputs
#6
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Hi Karman,
The tweeters are easy. They come with flying leads and plugs which simply connect to sockets that are already on the back of the standard door mid speakers.
To fit amps and drive the under-seat subs and door speakers from these, you will need to get to the back of the CCC unit in the dash and break into the speaker connections that come out . Cable kits are available online to help with this. As I said before, there are no low level signal outputs from the standard CCC, so you have to buy amps that can take in speaker level signals.
If you are not comfortable cutting into your existing speaker wiring harness, then I suggest just doing the tweeters, which alone make a huge difference that is worth having.
Good luck.
The tweeters are easy. They come with flying leads and plugs which simply connect to sockets that are already on the back of the standard door mid speakers.
To fit amps and drive the under-seat subs and door speakers from these, you will need to get to the back of the CCC unit in the dash and break into the speaker connections that come out . Cable kits are available online to help with this. As I said before, there are no low level signal outputs from the standard CCC, so you have to buy amps that can take in speaker level signals.
If you are not comfortable cutting into your existing speaker wiring harness, then I suggest just doing the tweeters, which alone make a huge difference that is worth having.
Good luck.
#7
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Hi Karman,
The tweeters are easy. They come with flying leads and plugs which simply connect to sockets that are already on the back of the standard door mid speakers.
To fit amps and drive the under-seat subs and door speakers from these, you will need to get to the back of the CCC unit in the dash and break into the speaker connections that come out . Cable kits are available online to help with this. As I said before, there are no low level signal outputs from the standard CCC, so you have to buy amps that can take in speaker level signals.
If you are not comfortable cutting into your existing speaker wiring harness, then I suggest just doing the tweeters, which alone make a huge difference that is worth having.
Good luck.
The tweeters are easy. They come with flying leads and plugs which simply connect to sockets that are already on the back of the standard door mid speakers.
To fit amps and drive the under-seat subs and door speakers from these, you will need to get to the back of the CCC unit in the dash and break into the speaker connections that come out . Cable kits are available online to help with this. As I said before, there are no low level signal outputs from the standard CCC, so you have to buy amps that can take in speaker level signals.
If you are not comfortable cutting into your existing speaker wiring harness, then I suggest just doing the tweeters, which alone make a huge difference that is worth having.
Good luck.
so You suggest take front speaker wires run into amp?
what amp You suggest? i read that many people use blaupunkt THA555 or Vibe litebox stereo 4channel.
1. add tweeters into front doors
2. for subs i understand that better choice is replace by earthquake sws8 (2Ohm)
3. adding amp but which would be better?
Thx
#8
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Hi
Yes, I fed my front speaker wires into my amps. I used a Blaupunkt THA-275 for the door speakers and a THA-1250 for the subs. I also fitted SWS-8's under the seats.
Despite buying a Blaupunkt "plug and play" cable, the whole install was not for the faint-hearted. There is significant dismantling of the central dash, removing the seats and quite a bit of wiring to do, including running extra power from the battery to the amps. Really pleased I did it and with the stereo off, you wouldn't know. However, just trying to be honest and say it is a lot of work and you need to be confident with wiring.
Yes, I fed my front speaker wires into my amps. I used a Blaupunkt THA-275 for the door speakers and a THA-1250 for the subs. I also fitted SWS-8's under the seats.
Despite buying a Blaupunkt "plug and play" cable, the whole install was not for the faint-hearted. There is significant dismantling of the central dash, removing the seats and quite a bit of wiring to do, including running extra power from the battery to the amps. Really pleased I did it and with the stereo off, you wouldn't know. However, just trying to be honest and say it is a lot of work and you need to be confident with wiring.
#9
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Hi
Yes, I fed my front speaker wires into my amps. I used a Blaupunkt THA-275 for the door speakers and a THA-1250 for the subs. I also fitted SWS-8's under the seats.
Despite buying a Blaupunkt "plug and play" cable, the whole install was not for the faint-hearted. There is significant dismantling of the central dash, removing the seats and quite a bit of wiring to do, including running extra power from the battery to the amps. Really pleased I did it and with the stereo off, you wouldn't know. However, just trying to be honest and say it is a lot of work and you need to be confident with wiring.
Yes, I fed my front speaker wires into my amps. I used a Blaupunkt THA-275 for the door speakers and a THA-1250 for the subs. I also fitted SWS-8's under the seats.
Despite buying a Blaupunkt "plug and play" cable, the whole install was not for the faint-hearted. There is significant dismantling of the central dash, removing the seats and quite a bit of wiring to do, including running extra power from the battery to the amps. Really pleased I did it and with the stereo off, you wouldn't know. However, just trying to be honest and say it is a lot of work and you need to be confident with wiring.
#10
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Hi
Yes, I fed my front speaker wires into my amps. I used a Blaupunkt THA-275 for the door speakers and a THA-1250 for the subs. I also fitted SWS-8's under the seats.
Despite buying a Blaupunkt "plug and play" cable, the whole install was not for the faint-hearted. There is significant dismantling of the central dash, removing the seats and quite a bit of wiring to do, including running extra power from the battery to the amps. Really pleased I did it and with the stereo off, you wouldn't know. However, just trying to be honest and say it is a lot of work and you need to be confident with wiring.
Yes, I fed my front speaker wires into my amps. I used a Blaupunkt THA-275 for the door speakers and a THA-1250 for the subs. I also fitted SWS-8's under the seats.
Despite buying a Blaupunkt "plug and play" cable, the whole install was not for the faint-hearted. There is significant dismantling of the central dash, removing the seats and quite a bit of wiring to do, including running extra power from the battery to the amps. Really pleased I did it and with the stereo off, you wouldn't know. However, just trying to be honest and say it is a lot of work and you need to be confident with wiring.
as i understand underseat subs runs from front door speaker wires, but if You wire door speaker to this THA-275 then from where You take for the subs
![Confused](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
maybe You splice it?
![Think](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/think.gif)
isnt better take one 4chanel amp THA 475?