Keys(remotes)+FM radio not working anymore!!
11-05-2010 | 03:30 PM
#21
Members
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: UK
My alarm stopped working and the tailgate wouldn't open.
Stripped everything apart and found that at the point where the wire loom meets the tailgate hinge, the casing on each wire had become brittle from the bending action caused by lifting the tailgate. The copper wire becomes exposed to the air and then corrodes and breaks. I pulled the loom back through the interior speaker holes, repaired the wires and it now works perfectly.
It seems to me this could be the cause of many problems on here.
Good luck
Stripped everything apart and found that at the point where the wire loom meets the tailgate hinge, the casing on each wire had become brittle from the bending action caused by lifting the tailgate. The copper wire becomes exposed to the air and then corrodes and breaks. I pulled the loom back through the interior speaker holes, repaired the wires and it now works perfectly.
It seems to me this could be the cause of many problems on here.
Good luck
09-21-2013 | 04:42 PM
#22
Members
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: NY, USA
My Ride: '06 530xi sw
How did you fix the FM?
I am curious how you managed to fix the FM. Did you need to replace any small component on the circuit board, or you only fixed the connectors? 
Thanks a lot!
Thanks a lot!
FIXED!!! 
Finally received the new Diversity Antenna Amplifier today. Installed it, and everything works. Just for "fun" i tried to fix the damaged one, as i have a electronics workstation available with oscilloscope, solder equip and powersupply, but was only able to get the FM part to work again, not the remotes!
When i installed the new module i "modified" the plastic box it's in and the new module by making another o-ring and greasing up EVERYTHING with lots of special grease(water repellant whitch you can use on printboards too). Also opened the new module and put grease on the connectors/printboard, incase there is moisture/water incress it will not short circuit the printboard.
During the install i also opened the cable covers and removed the tape on the cables going through the hinge. Can confirm that this is another weak point on the E61,in addition to the placement of the Diversity Module. Didn't find any cable breaks but one cable with very damaged isolation(for the rear window heater). Removed the right side speaker and pulled the cables inn so i could fix it.
So now i can sleep well knowing that i can wake up and start my webasto heater from my bed tomorrow
Thanks for all the help guys!!
Finally received the new Diversity Antenna Amplifier today. Installed it, and everything works. Just for "fun" i tried to fix the damaged one, as i have a electronics workstation available with oscilloscope, solder equip and powersupply, but was only able to get the FM part to work again, not the remotes!
When i installed the new module i "modified" the plastic box it's in and the new module by making another o-ring and greasing up EVERYTHING with lots of special grease(water repellant whitch you can use on printboards too). Also opened the new module and put grease on the connectors/printboard, incase there is moisture/water incress it will not short circuit the printboard.
During the install i also opened the cable covers and removed the tape on the cables going through the hinge. Can confirm that this is another weak point on the E61,in addition to the placement of the Diversity Module. Didn't find any cable breaks but one cable with very damaged isolation(for the rear window heater). Removed the right side speaker and pulled the cables inn so i could fix it.
So now i can sleep well knowing that i can wake up and start my webasto heater from my bed tomorrow
Thanks for all the help guys!!
10-01-2013 | 01:58 PM
#23
New Members
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 203
Likes: 21
From: Montreal
My Ride: 2010 535xiT Touring, N54, Individual Audio
Model Year: 2010
Engine: N54 3.0L Twin Turbo
... I was reading that there are copper contacts between the Diversity module and the glass where the FM and alarm antennas are. I'm guessing that the contacts have corodded and went open circuit, might just need some cleaning or the other problem may be related to the wiring getting knackered in the hinge mechanism.
The dealer has confirmed that there is a very good signal between the diversity antenna amplifier and the central locking / comfort access module under the dash - so it's not a problem with the wiring looms passing by the hinges. We suspect it is a problem with the connections between the antennas in the rear glass, and the diversity antenna amplifier. Anyone have any idea how these contacts are made, whether they can be cleaned or improved? Does the rear glass need to be removed or replaced? Anyone else run into this particular issue?
Thanks in advance, trying to get this sorted out without it costing me a fortune....
10-02-2013 | 06:27 AM
#24
New Members
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 203
Likes: 21
From: Montreal
My Ride: 2010 535xiT Touring, N54, Individual Audio
Model Year: 2010
Engine: N54 3.0L Twin Turbo
Just a quick update - on the e61 tailgate window, there is a moulded plastic cover which protects the antennas. We can see some corrosion, and that water has entered the space between the cover and the window, but this doesn't come apart. We're suspecting that the antennas may be damaged under the cover, or the connection to the antennas. The shop is going to try to fabricate an external antenna and test that (instead of replacing the glass and antennas - not interested in spending $800 just to get new antennas with the glass).
If anyone out there has been through this, has any experience I'd appreciate hearing from you. Thanks!
If anyone out there has been through this, has any experience I'd appreciate hearing from you. Thanks!
10-02-2013 | 01:04 PM
#26
New Members
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 203
Likes: 21
From: Montreal
My Ride: 2010 535xiT Touring, N54, Individual Audio
Model Year: 2010
Engine: N54 3.0L Twin Turbo
Looks like my remote locking range issue has been solved. The shop mechanic couldn't get a good signal from the "FBD" antenna connected to the diversity antenna amplifier, even with a brand new diversity antenna amp. So he fabricated a new, monopole, quarter wavelength antenna just using insulated, braided copper wire, 250mm long, and installed it into the mating connector to the diversity antenna amp, and disconnected the lead to the antennas in the glass. Thanks to Lotus99 for the TSB PDF - previous post - it explains the embedded antennas for the e60, although I suspect the placement of the antennas for the e61 is a bit different.
With the new custom antenna - I've now got remote unlocking up to about 20 or 30m from the car, depending on the direction. At least I'll be able to lock / unlock the car from the front door of the house, which I could never do before.
Best part - didn't have to buy a new back glass to get working antennas.
With the new custom antenna - I've now got remote unlocking up to about 20 or 30m from the car, depending on the direction. At least I'll be able to lock / unlock the car from the front door of the house, which I could never do before.
Best part - didn't have to buy a new back glass to get working antennas.
11-11-2013 | 04:13 AM
#28
New Members
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Bellshill
My Ride: BMW 5 Series
I got the spoiler off and took apart the two left hinges. I'd only time to investigate the one nearer the middle of the car but found that what I believe is the return line for the Rear Window Heater element was broken. The wire had frayed and come apart what looked like over time. I'd say as it got thinner and thinner the wire would have increased resistance and heated up. This explains why the water pipe had both a hole in it at the same point of the wire break and why the wire had the ribbed imprint of the water pipe in it for several inches.
Attachment 99553
I guess the person designing it wouldn't have considered this failure but mixing the water line and the rest of the electrical lines doesn't seem a good idea.
Anyhow the heater now works :-)
I cannot explain why the FM reception has improved though (still not at full strength). The remote central locking (inc alarm remote) still doesn't work. I'm guessing it's the wires on the right hand hinges as there are about 6 wires going into the Right Hand side of the Diversity Module. I'll have to investigate that some other day. I'll keep you upto date.
Attachment 99553
I guess the person designing it wouldn't have considered this failure but mixing the water line and the rest of the electrical lines doesn't seem a good idea.
Anyhow the heater now works :-)
I cannot explain why the FM reception has improved though (still not at full strength). The remote central locking (inc alarm remote) still doesn't work. I'm guessing it's the wires on the right hand hinges as there are about 6 wires going into the Right Hand side of the Diversity Module. I'll have to investigate that some other day. I'll keep you upto date.
05-15-2016 | 10:38 PM
#29
New Members
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 65
Likes: 1
From: Seattle
My Ride: 535xi Wagon
Model Year: 2008
I've got the same problems with my 2008 wagon. Still deciding whether i should attempt this myself or not...
Here's a pretty amazing DIY guide for those of you adventurous enough to try it:
The Fix-it Blog - Sorting Things Out: BMW 535xi Touring E61 Tailgate Wiring Harness - SenCom Repair Kit Installation
Here's a pretty amazing DIY guide for those of you adventurous enough to try it:
The Fix-it Blog - Sorting Things Out: BMW 535xi Touring E61 Tailgate Wiring Harness - SenCom Repair Kit Installation
06-28-2016 | 03:33 PM
#30
New Members
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: UK
My Ride: 520d
Hi all,
I've had the same problem with my E61 for the last few days and was absolutely bloody determined to get to the bottom of it!
I've already repaired the wires for the tailgate loom, so this was the first thing I checked and, unsurprisingly, most of the wires feeding the diversity amp under the spoiler were either cut or nearly cut through. These were way easier to repair that the tailgate, as the whole loom could be pulled back through the speaker hole, so it was quickly and easily repaired.
Sadly, in my case, this didn't restore the central locking. Determined not to give up, I found that the diversity amplifier itself was only partially working - the FM amp was OK, but there was no signal coming out of the pin for the remote key feed (pin 2 on the main connector, in case anyone is interested).
With a bit of poking around, I discovered that there was no 5V rail on the board and traced this to a broken through-PCB link that must have got water damaged. A quick repair later (using a small repair wire) and with the 5V rail re-established, I now get a digital signal out of pin 2
It's not back in the car yet (ran out of daylight), but I'm pretty confident it will work now.
Pics are here:
https://imgur.com/a/sWdk0
Happy to answer any questions that anyone might have here.
Oh, and I'm now utterly fed up of the shitty job that BMW did with the E61. The car itself is fantastic, but unless BMW can confirm, explicitly, that these tailgate issues have not carried over to the F11, it will be my last BMW estate
***************
edit: Update! Amplifier back in car and all working ok. I've liberally applied Castrol Red-Rubber Grease around the lid for the amplifier box to try to improve its sealing, so hopefully this will be the last time I need to poke around in there. Yey! https://imgur.com/pz2Ag2N
I've had the same problem with my E61 for the last few days and was absolutely bloody determined to get to the bottom of it!
I've already repaired the wires for the tailgate loom, so this was the first thing I checked and, unsurprisingly, most of the wires feeding the diversity amp under the spoiler were either cut or nearly cut through. These were way easier to repair that the tailgate, as the whole loom could be pulled back through the speaker hole, so it was quickly and easily repaired.
Sadly, in my case, this didn't restore the central locking. Determined not to give up, I found that the diversity amplifier itself was only partially working - the FM amp was OK, but there was no signal coming out of the pin for the remote key feed (pin 2 on the main connector, in case anyone is interested).
With a bit of poking around, I discovered that there was no 5V rail on the board and traced this to a broken through-PCB link that must have got water damaged. A quick repair later (using a small repair wire) and with the 5V rail re-established, I now get a digital signal out of pin 2
It's not back in the car yet (ran out of daylight), but I'm pretty confident it will work now.
Pics are here:
https://imgur.com/a/sWdk0
Happy to answer any questions that anyone might have here.
Oh, and I'm now utterly fed up of the shitty job that BMW did with the E61. The car itself is fantastic, but unless BMW can confirm, explicitly, that these tailgate issues have not carried over to the F11, it will be my last BMW estate
***************
edit: Update! Amplifier back in car and all working ok. I've liberally applied Castrol Red-Rubber Grease around the lid for the amplifier box to try to improve its sealing, so hopefully this will be the last time I need to poke around in there. Yey! https://imgur.com/pz2Ag2N
Last edited by daern; 06-29-2016 at 12:44 AM. Reason: Additional info