E61 Touring Discussion The touring is also known as the wagon version of the 5 series.

How best to lower an M-Sport E61 Touring

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Old 06-11-2009 | 04:18 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by xBMWx' post='906992' date='Jun 10 2009, 08:38 PM
Thanks for pointing to your diy. (I assume kept the original springs?)
How did you lower the front?
I just lowered the rear to match the ride height at the front. All parts are unchanged. Front springs are original factory fitted OEM Sports springs.

Just make sure whatever way you lower the rear that you get the camber reset because it will eat the inside edges of the tyres very quickly!
Old 06-11-2009 | 04:27 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by chesney72' post='906937' date='Jun 10 2009, 08:23 PM
I lowered the rear air suspension mine myself. I wrote up a how to guide in the DIY section. It's a mechanical way and not an electronic way.
Aha, I didn't know that. So you don't do anyhting at all with the software? No new calibration or sorts?
Old 06-11-2009 | 10:41 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by narvselius' post='907650' date='Jun 11 2009, 12:27 PM
Aha, I didn't know that. So you don't do anyhting at all with the software? No new calibration or sorts?
Way I looked at it was the ride height is set via a sensor switch at each side. The system builds up pressure to raise the car until the switches send a signal. If you load the car up it will pump the suspension up to keep it at the same level as an unloaded car. I moved the sensors so they send the signal to stop raising a little sooner and hence lower.

Not sure how the electronic way works. I assume the sensors are maybe more than just a simple switch and must send a variable signal to the ECU so they maybe get the ECU to cut the pump off earlier by altering the way it reads the signal from the switches.

I'd imagine the pressure inside the air suspension modules will be the same regardless of the ride height and will only increase if you load the car up and the pump has to put more pressure in the modules to get it back 'up' to the height dictated by the sensors. So it's the load and not the ride height that dictates the pressure/spring rate. I'm sure somebody argued that this method may somehow affect the spring rate and if anyone can explain this then please do so.

I have to say I have not noticed any adverse effects 12k miles after doing it and the car is a not any more harsh nor is it bouncy.
Old 06-12-2009 | 12:26 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by chesney72' post='907921' date='Jun 11 2009, 07:41 PM
Way I looked at it was the ride height is set via a sensor switch at each side. The system builds up pressure to raise the car until the switches send a signal. If you load the car up it will pump the suspension up to keep it at the same level as an unloaded car. I moved the sensors so they send the signal to stop raising a little sooner and hence lower.

Not sure how the electronic way works. I assume the sensors are maybe more than just a simple switch and must send a variable signal to the ECU so they maybe get the ECU to cut the pump off earlier by altering the way it reads the signal from the switches.

I'd imagine the pressure inside the air suspension modules will be the same regardless of the ride height and will only increase if you load the car up and the pump has to put more pressure in the modules to get it back 'up' to the height dictated by the sensors. So it's the load and not the ride height that dictates the pressure/spring rate. I'm sure somebody argued that this method may somehow affect the spring rate and if anyone can explain this then please do so.

I have to say I have not noticed any adverse effects 12k miles after doing it and the car is a not any more harsh nor is it bouncy.
Thanks for your write up and well done!
Old 06-12-2009 | 12:38 PM
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His (xBMWx) E61 does NOT need to be lowered.

Old 06-16-2009 | 04:30 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by xBMWx' post='907630' date='Jun 11 2009, 12:07 PM
thanks for the details.

how much did the software change cost?
50 EUR
Old 10-16-2009 | 05:59 AM
  #17  
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Thought I would bring this post back to life again -- I asked the question in the Scandinavia Meet post, but its more relevant here and will be easier for others to find...


I'm in the process of getting quotes to have my car lowered and the main reason is to achieve this "slanted look" Hilden has on his car -- see pic below. I had that on my E46 M-sport and loved it, and also think it looks great on his car. Unforetunately this slanted look is not very noticable on the standard E61 m-sport suspension that I have at the moment.
My current idea is to have an Eibach Pro Kit on the front giving a total 35mm drop (m-sport 20mm + 15mm extra from the Eibach Pro springs) and lowering the rear air suspension around 7-10mm

Hilden: How much lower is yours at the front, i.e. how many MM lowered at the front and how many MM lowered at the back?

General question to all out there; are you having problems around the city with a lowered car, i.e. around 35mm drop at the front? I am concerned about killing my front spoiler!

What's your opinion on this "slanted stance" guys... :thumbsdown: or ??


this is the kind of slanted look I would like to achieve when lowering the car -- more at the front than at the rear


compared to the "flat" stance I have with my m-sport suspension today
How best to lower an M-Sport E61 Touring-img_7704b.jpg
Old 10-16-2009 | 06:54 AM
  #18  
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Interesting.

When we were driving around Germany and Austria, and you were following me (which was not very often!), I thought that your E61 had more of "slant" than mine. It may have just been an optical illusion created by the rear view mirror.

If I lower mine, I am getting KW coil overs.

That will not be any time soon!
Old 10-16-2009 | 06:57 AM
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Well honestly I'm not totally sure on how much lower it is but I can try to measure from hub centre to top of fender arc if you like. As you write, the Eibachs are supposed to be some 30-35mm lower. For the rear I just told the guy to drop it until it looks nice

In my case I also think the lack of spacers in the rear adds to the slanted look since it makes the gap look bigger. Although I'll try to fix that for next summer season I don't mind the current look. At least it's better than the lard-a$$ look where it's lower in the rear

Never had a problem with ride height either, except for our little forest rallye during the meet and other situations involving high speeds and large bumps/slopes.

Anyway I think your current setup look badass already so no need to go change it. If money's burning in your leather I'm sure you can find some other nice car parts to burn it on

Edit: I had no problem with curbs to date either but considering we have everything from 1mm to 20cm curbs here it's just an accident waiting to happen....Can measure from bumper to ground as well if you like.
Old 10-16-2009 | 07:07 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Hilden' post='1033822' date='Oct 16 2009, 04:57 PM
Anyway I think your current setup look badass already so no need to go change it. If money's burning in your leather I'm sure you can find some other nice car parts to burn it on
I totally agree!


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