FLAT BATTERY OVERNIGHT
01-22-2012, 11:57 PM
#11
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My Ride: BMW E61 530d 2005 M sport, individual, shadow line
Hello,
Interesting, your example shows that before buying we could actually check the original alternator on the car. Take the cassette out and inspect, right? Then take decision to buy new one ( good used one)
I might do that.
Thanks.
Interesting, your example shows that before buying we could actually check the original alternator on the car. Take the cassette out and inspect, right? Then take decision to buy new one ( good used one)
I might do that.
Thanks.
Hi,
I had similar problem to yours. My alternator was charging only intermittently so guys who checked could not found the problem. Until it completely stopped. once car started check with multimeter on battery terminals, it should give you around 15V. if it does not 13V below your alternator is the problem.
here is my little how to:
I have ordered used alternator from the eBay. As soon as it arrived, I took the thing apart to clean it up. I found out that the electronic board including brushes is contained in easily detachable plastic. What else could go wrong with alternator? I decided to only swap electronic board and brushes instead removing whole alternator.
Anyway,
You start with removing top engine acoustic cover, you do not need to unmount alternator at whole!
On the first picture, you pull out wires no.1, and detach 2 and 3 by losing the nut. Number 4 shows plastic cover that needs to be removed to cassette containing converter and brushes.
On the second picture, you can see how the plastic cover holds on the alternator, you just need good size screwdriver to lever it out.
The third picture shows 3 screws you need to undo (size 7), and pulling up, you easily detach whole plastic cassette containing converter and brushes.
Number 4 shows where the brushes are. Just slip new cassette in and do the process in reverse.
Whole thing from opening of the bonnet to closing it took less than 30 minutes!
I know this is not difficult job, but pictures could make easier for you to locate what you need to unscrew without taking out the whole alternator.
Point being, I cannot imagine rotor and stator going bad, this are non contact items. if alternator not making noise, I doubt that bearings are bad, so you are left with converter and brushes. Why pay for new alternator, + fitting? I have done it on side of my street within 30 minutes.
I had similar problem to yours. My alternator was charging only intermittently so guys who checked could not found the problem. Until it completely stopped. once car started check with multimeter on battery terminals, it should give you around 15V. if it does not 13V below your alternator is the problem.
here is my little how to:
I have ordered used alternator from the eBay. As soon as it arrived, I took the thing apart to clean it up. I found out that the electronic board including brushes is contained in easily detachable plastic. What else could go wrong with alternator? I decided to only swap electronic board and brushes instead removing whole alternator.
Anyway,
You start with removing top engine acoustic cover, you do not need to unmount alternator at whole!
On the first picture, you pull out wires no.1, and detach 2 and 3 by losing the nut. Number 4 shows plastic cover that needs to be removed to cassette containing converter and brushes.
On the second picture, you can see how the plastic cover holds on the alternator, you just need good size screwdriver to lever it out.
The third picture shows 3 screws you need to undo (size 7), and pulling up, you easily detach whole plastic cassette containing converter and brushes.
Number 4 shows where the brushes are. Just slip new cassette in and do the process in reverse.
Whole thing from opening of the bonnet to closing it took less than 30 minutes!
I know this is not difficult job, but pictures could make easier for you to locate what you need to unscrew without taking out the whole alternator.
Point being, I cannot imagine rotor and stator going bad, this are non contact items. if alternator not making noise, I doubt that bearings are bad, so you are left with converter and brushes. Why pay for new alternator, + fitting? I have done it on side of my street within 30 minutes.
01-27-2012, 05:36 AM
#12
correct, I think in most cases the brushes or converter (pcb) will be faulty. I found guy on eb*y selling valeo (manufacturers name on the original alternator) pcb`s and brushes, which is still way cheaper then buying new whole alternator.
05-31-2012, 06:02 AM
#13
Hi,
Just wanted to share my flat battery problem over the past weeks (May 2012) and the actual root cause.
My E61 (Dec-2004, 525 diesel) had a flat battery one day, I mean: completely dead. Doors hardly opening with remote key. So jump started, brought to garage and had a new battery fitted. After all, the original battery was 8 yrs old. I drove back home, thinking all was well and parked the car. Happy happy.
HOWEVER! Second day: again, totally flat (and brand new!) battery. PANIC! To cut a very long story short: it turned out that a small IBS module (Intelligent Battery Sensor) was faulty and was waking up several consumers during the night. The problem occurred randomly and that is why it took 4 weeks for an official BMW dealer to diagnose the problem !
So whenever you are certain that your battery and alternator are working fine, start thinking about replacing this IBS module. The module itself is small and costed me about $25, so worth exchanging it. It resides near the MINUS pole of the battery. It measures 3 things: voltage, current and remaining energy. It has a small microprocessor, is connected to the CAN bus and it's role is to monitor the condition of your battery. Once a value drops below a certain threshold it *should* send proper alarm messages over the CAN bus and put certain consumers into sleep to make sure you can still start your car the next day. However, if this little module is faulty it has the opposite effect: waking up certain devices at night!
I hope this post is in the correct thread, if not pls point me where I should drop this experience as well.
Enjoy driving!
Just wanted to share my flat battery problem over the past weeks (May 2012) and the actual root cause.
My E61 (Dec-2004, 525 diesel) had a flat battery one day, I mean: completely dead. Doors hardly opening with remote key. So jump started, brought to garage and had a new battery fitted. After all, the original battery was 8 yrs old. I drove back home, thinking all was well and parked the car. Happy happy.
HOWEVER! Second day: again, totally flat (and brand new!) battery. PANIC! To cut a very long story short: it turned out that a small IBS module (Intelligent Battery Sensor) was faulty and was waking up several consumers during the night. The problem occurred randomly and that is why it took 4 weeks for an official BMW dealer to diagnose the problem !
So whenever you are certain that your battery and alternator are working fine, start thinking about replacing this IBS module. The module itself is small and costed me about $25, so worth exchanging it. It resides near the MINUS pole of the battery. It measures 3 things: voltage, current and remaining energy. It has a small microprocessor, is connected to the CAN bus and it's role is to monitor the condition of your battery. Once a value drops below a certain threshold it *should* send proper alarm messages over the CAN bus and put certain consumers into sleep to make sure you can still start your car the next day. However, if this little module is faulty it has the opposite effect: waking up certain devices at night!
I hope this post is in the correct thread, if not pls point me where I should drop this experience as well.
Enjoy driving!
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