scottalexander

We have a 2010 e60 with the N52k.

How many miles would be on the fuel pump before you get nervous and proactively replace it?

Everyone talks about proactively replacing the electronic water pump around 60,000 miles.

What is the benchmark for proactively replacing the fuel pump?

JuniorB

Jnelson1182

how difficult of a job is it to change the fuel pump/filter? an besides the car throwing any codes can anyone tell me a few common symptoms that maybe displayed when one or the other is going out?

scottalexander

I just changed the fuel filter and it took about 30 minutes. However, I bought the proper extraction ring tool for $24 on eBay. This way, you can replace the fuel filter every two or so years and you know the metal ring is torqued to the right foot lbs setting. Using this tool makes the job much easier and I'll order another fuel filter from FCP Euro in 2 years and do the job again.

The hardest part about that job is making sure the 2 fuel lines and 1 electronic harness does not fall back in the tank and you have to fish them out. When you pull off all the lines from the old filter, have someone hold all the lines above the gas tank opening. Now get the new filter while they are holding all 3 lines, connect them to the new filter and insert it into the tank. This makes the job fast and your hands are not covered with gas.

If the fuel pump is old and clogged the fuel pressure might likely be inaccurate / strained and the engine could be starved for fuel.

The original question was about the fuel pump. How many miles is the average person getting out of their fuel pump? Does it make sense to proactively replace it at 60,000? 80,000? 100,000?

Many people are proactively replacing their Water Pump around 60,000. Are you doing the fuel pump at 60,000?

Jnelson1182

im currently trying to figure out exactly what is going on with my car, it feels like the car is being choked for air or something cuz when accelerating from a stop or slower speed the rpms will begin to bounce up an down by a few hundred rpms until reaching a high enough speed or shift point that it stops, its weird because if I let off the gas for a second then reapply it goes away or if I give the car more gas when the issue starts it will stop, or at least work its way thru the issue faster, it seems to happen more often when I am lower on gas, from a quarter tank an under it happens more the lower tank gets, also at that time it seems like if I run the ac/heater on high it will cause it to happen more often. the last owner had experienced a misfire in 2 cylinders so he took the car down for the 100k mile tune up, they replaced plugs which stopped misfire but shortly after this problem started, I guess independent shop told him it was the tranny but when I took it to the dealership they said its not the transmission also there are no codes of any kind stored in the transmission, also when in DS or M mode it seems to happen less than in normal D. is there a certain spark plug I should be running that maybe the shop using the wrong ones could have caused this or maybe a coil/injector going out? the car isn't throwing any codes with anything to do with something that could cause this sort of issue

scottalexander

When the idle is bouncing, check for a range of issues such as Clean the vanos intake solenoid and the vanos exhaust solenoid and see what happenso are the vanos solenoids working well?o are one of the coil pack malfunctioning? Switch the coils around and see if one of the cylinders is now misfiringo is the cam sensor intake or cam sensor exhaust malfunctioning?o mass air flow sensor acting up?
Process:o Clean mass airflow sensor with MAF spray cleaner (did this fix the problem)?o Clean the two vanos oil sensors in the front of the engine (did this fix the problem)?o If the battery is weak, it will make the car do funky things. Charge the battery, (did this fix the problem)?

jasondomina

I had ABM w technician. Tell me that it does not have to be changed if there is no problem. I have 300000 miles on my original.