Deb6orah

I did code the SZL and compared the before and after and there were no changes.

vadimr

Bringing this thread from the dead, what about 2010 535i USA with 676 that had MASK and retrofitting with US Spec CIC from a car that had 676 as well, will it be a plug and play or will I still need the external amp?

ericgla

It looks like the images from the original post are gone. I ended up finding this PDF on e60fanactics.de, and hope it helps for anyone doing a CIC retrofit with the 676 hifi option.

balbs

That Woofer fix is a work around. It doesn't sound as good as before doing the CIC retrofit. (not that the original sounded all that great in the first place). It still didn't get good bass. I ended up installing a JBL-MS8 based on this guide:

https://5series.net/forums/e60-parts...nstall-124141/

The audio sounds so much better even with the stock speakers. The MS-8 also brought out more bass from the under seat woofers. So basically if one was to do the CIC retrofit, it's also a good idea to upgrade the audio as well.

ericgla

I just finished making this change last night. While it sounds better than no woofers, it still does not sound great. I'll be looking into the same upgrade to the JBL MS-8.

--Eric

enzo503

Sorry for bringing an old thread back from the dead. ( I have been researching as much as possible on the threads and posts as I can and I cant seem to find the exact cause to my problem)


So, I have just done the cic retrofit and my pre lci car had the 676 hifi option.
As far as I can tell, the amp in the boot is not being triggered on. Tapping the wires as stated above will connect the subs to the rear speaker lines is my understanding thus far. I am guessing this will also trigger the amp on?


Even with adding your own amp to power the subs, your still only connecting to the same feed as the rear speakers?
Where does the amp in the trunk get its remote and power from?


The problem I am seeing is my car is having a high level discharge warning coming up. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the cic unit and the ccc unit because I believe its more then re adjusting a few speaker cables.


Thanks in advance.

enzo503

my mistake. its my video module not powering up, that's another problem for me to resolve

vadimr

It has nothing to do with re-adjusting the wires. CCC or MASK had amplified output and CIC has pre-amp output. Cars shipped with 676 and CIC had a different AMP in the trunk. They have pre-amps running to the trunk to the CIC 676 amp from where the subs and speakers are powered. What people are talking about here with adjusting the wires is basically taking one of the pre-amp channels and passing it to the subs. Useless in my opinion.

I had Technic make me the harness for original CIC amp which I sourced and installed it in my car as if it came with CIC. Other's chose the method of going with aftermarket amp and again Technic is usually the guy that makes them a PnP harness for that.

If you want to try to do it yourself, get the Parrot SOT 903 harness which you'll use to tap into the wires from your current CCC sub amp, run additional wires from the CIC pre-amp to the back, and get the CIC amp and CIC amp plug, piece it all together and you should have OEM sound.

-Vadim

enzo503

thanks for your response. I am understanding a bit more now


Over the weekend I tapped into the rear sub amp and plugged in my own amp. I did the pin swap at the front to get the subs running off the rear speaker (which I now know as pre-amp) lines.


This obviously sounded much better right off the bat with the lpf running off of my amp for the subs.


So now I just need a 4ch amp for the remaining speakers.


I presume then that the later cic 676 unit only ran 4ch to the trunk/amp which then got separated for the sub/speaker setup.
The ccc/mask ran the full range speakers direct from the head unit and ran 2ch to the trunk/amp for the subs only...
Thus meaning my oem amp is only 2ch and can not be used to tap into my full range speakers unless I want to lose fader options.

funglenn

Can you explain which are the ones you are calling pre-amp lines? The pins you pulled off or the ones they went to. I see there is a solution but with soo many wires and an amp that does not do much I am puzzled as to how to fix--I am not an audio guy. The CIC install and coding was easier compared to this!