Bimmergirl_550

Hi Guys I recently installed my Bc Racing BR Type I-15 (M5) coilovers on my manual 550i. The 550i is a little different than other models because it has sport suspension, so the rear strut and spring assembly is already one piece, where on other models it is a separate spring and a strut which is easier to remove. Here’s how I did it and a couple tips along the way.
before:
3BE1E2D4-9E9D-48BE-9A70-DC1D5BE9880B_zpspvtysbh7.jpeg Photo by bimmergirl_550 | Photobucket
EE4CE404-F955-4E43-99B6-F3F7D40AD895_zpsddglhzyg.jpeg Photo by bimmergirl_550 | Photobucket
D9B48356-CE2F-4633-84A6-9E643FF3840E_zpsfotshzxm.jpeg Photo by bimmergirl_550 | Photobucket

after:
4821E34E-D383-4C8E-AA99-C511D7ADE503_zpsbrglypm8.jpeg Photo by bimmergirl_550 | Photobucket
E216892D-7A32-4A2C-935A-6E4BB240EC82_zpsgvmct33h.jpeg Photo by bimmergirl_550 | Photobucket
3C0CC6A2-FEC3-4DC2-93A2-D61944B4B69E_zpsnenhklw6.jpeg Photo by bimmergirl_550 | Photobucket


tools:
spring compressor (rented at oreillys)
ratchets & extensions
ratchet with swivel head very helpful for 12mm &13mm bolts
sockets 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm
open wrench 16mm, 18mm, 19mm
hex key vt 30 if you replace your endlinks
clip remover
mallet
measuring tape
spanner wrenches
floor jack
2nd set of hands!!!
someone strong

Installing/removing fronts:
1. Jack the car up from the center point and put jacks on a high setting, you’ll need the space when removing the strut assembly. I put mine on the 3rd setting on the jack stands. Remove wheels
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2. Remove 3 bolts from strut assembly
16mm closest to wheel

next the long bolt running behind the strut.
use a 19mm socket on one side and an 18mm open wrench on the other or vice versa, I used a crescent wrench bc I didn’t have an 18mm
hold the 19mm socket in place and rotate the 18mm wrench counter clockwise to remove the nut.
bolt is still in place so knock it with the mallet and it should easily come out Bc it’s held in place by the rubber
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Dont worry about supporting the control arm, it’s not going anywhere

3. Compress the spring
use both spring compressors and a 19mm open wrench to tighten them
​​​​​​​you may have to start with one spring compressor and put the other on after you remove the top 3 nuts, so that you have more room to place the other compressor

4. The strut is going to be stuck in the assembly, so spray WD40 on it and start putting some weight onto the caliper. My friend and I were jumping on the caliper to get the strut out and using a mallet on it, won’t damage it. You’ll see the strut slowly come out if it hasn’t been changed before.

5. Undo the top 3 x 13mm nuts and be ready for the strut to fall, have your friend there ready to catch it
top 3 nuts_zpsczpqircs.png Photo by bimmergirl_550 | Photobucket

6. Once the strut is out push down on the rotor to give yourself room to remove the strut assembly.
tilt the top of the strut down and pull it out, it may be a bitch to come out, but she will come out

Don’t worry about the sway bar endlinks unless you are corner balancing, they will not bend or get in the way, I didn’t need to install adjustable endlinks

7. Install the new coilover and put on the 3x13mm nuts on top very tightly!! If they’re not tight they will move out of position, which happened to me.

8. Have a friend lift the rotor so that you can slip the bottom of the coilover into the strut holder
Its very heavy so work quickly
make sure it’s is straight and you slip it in until you go past the threads and feel a smooth part on the bottom of the coilover

9. Put the 19mm bolt back in and the 18mm nut

10. Reinstall the 16mm bolt

11.adjust the coilover to your dampening and ride height
the lower you go on ride height the harder your dampening should be so you don’t rub your tires

Adjusting your coilovers!
1. Loosen the bottom locking ring turn to the right
2. Tighten the small top locking ring (lower top ring) to the right so that you don’t adjust your preload
3.Use large spanner wrench to turn top ring to the left to lower the ride height OR use your hands and twist the threads and spring to the left!
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4. Keep measuring how low you want to go with the measuring tape
5. Once desired ride height is achieved, tighten lower locking ring to the left, make sure it’s really tight or you may get a clunking noise coming from your coilover

I adjusted my coilovers to the same height but my drivers side still looked a bit higher than the passenger, so I lowered the drivers side a bit more


Rear arm coilover removal/install:
1. Before jacking up the rear, remove the trunk side paneling. Remove the panels that are by the lights, they just pop out, no screws or clips. Then remove the side panels which each have 2 clips near the top. You’ll need to pull back the blue foam cover the very top back where you’re going to access the top of the struts near your back seats. There will be black foam pads sitting on top of the 3x12mm bolts, just pull it out
remove panels rear_zpsqol9avqe.png Photo by bimmergirl_550 | Photobucket

rear pin_zpsl1meoasz.png Photo by bimmergirl_550 | Photobucket

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2. Jack up the rear from the differential, it won’t get damaged. place your jack stands on the 3rd or 4th highest setting so you have room to remove the strut

3. REMOVE THE WHEEL LINING if you don’t do this you won’t be able to get the strut out later or it will be a bitch, cuz I couldn’t get it out until I removed it. It’s 8x8mm bolts and 2x 10mm bolts, don’t forget to remove the 3x8mm nuts under the side skirt by the wheel

4. Remove the 19mm bolt holding the strut in place it is going to be very difficult to remove so you have to put some force Into it (my dad had to crack it loose for me). I got under the car and used and extension with a knuckle head and a long 1/2” ratchet
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5. Once the bolt is out hit the bottom with a mallet to get the strut away from the rotor so it can hang on it’s own

6. Compress the spring

7. Remove the 3x12mm nuts on top of the strut and be ready for it to fall, should come out easily now

8. When doing the PASSANGER STRUT, it is more difficult bc there are things blocking the top of the strut from coming out. Have a friend push down on the rotor while you wiggle the strut out.

9. Put the new coilover in, attach to the top and install the 3x12mm nuts tightly
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10. Lift the rotor to meet the bottom of the coilover and reinstall the 19mm bolt and torque it
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11. Reinstall the wheel lining

12. Adjust the rear coilovers the same way you adjusted the fronts

i would leave your trunk paneling off if you don’t know how stiff you want your suspension. I put mine all the way to hard and then reinstalled the trunk paneling.

Remember your coilover WILL settle in, so they may look higher than you like at first but go for a test drive, so some turns, go over the bumps, in and out of drive ways. See how you like them at that height and if they scrape at all. I readjusted mine about 6 times to get it right and need to reroll my rear fenders so I can go lower. Have someone sit In your backseat to see if your car scrapes.

This is the same install process for an e46 accept on the e46 you will need wheel spacers and adjustable endlinks. Also the e46 is a separate spring and shock assembly in the back so it’s easier to remove.

hope this was helpful!

L.Rogers34

Bimmergirl_550