Sportautomatic (SAT) retrofit
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Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Hungary
My Ride: 2008 Bmw e60 535d
New Members
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 392
Likes: 2
From: My house
My Ride: 535XI
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
Hey Everyone!
First of all thanks for everybody who contributed to this amazing thread. I learned a lot reading it all through.
I just started the whole retrofit process on my 2008 LCI 535d and as I get to the wiring stage from the SZL connector to the ground and to the x6031 connector, I found that I already have a blue/white wire in pin13 in the SZL connector and also have a wire in pin11 in the x6031 connector with the same blue/white colour. Pin12 in the SZL connector which meant to be wired to the ground is also occupied with a wire which is blue/green if I remember correctly. Important to note that everything looks untouched, no sign of previous work done around these wires and connectors.
My question is:
Is it possible that the wiring is already there for the paddle shifter steering wheel even though my car came from the factory with standard steering wheel?
Should I give it a try, connect my steering wheel, leave the connectors as it is, do the coding and see if it works without carrying out the wiring from the SZL connector?
If it is not possible than should I just cut these wires (pin12 and pin13) from the SZL connector and solder my wires onto them so I can proceed with the original wiring plan?
I would really appreciate a quick response as everything is disassembled now and would be great to put everything back together asap so the car can be used.
Many Thanks!
First of all thanks for everybody who contributed to this amazing thread. I learned a lot reading it all through.
I just started the whole retrofit process on my 2008 LCI 535d and as I get to the wiring stage from the SZL connector to the ground and to the x6031 connector, I found that I already have a blue/white wire in pin13 in the SZL connector and also have a wire in pin11 in the x6031 connector with the same blue/white colour. Pin12 in the SZL connector which meant to be wired to the ground is also occupied with a wire which is blue/green if I remember correctly. Important to note that everything looks untouched, no sign of previous work done around these wires and connectors.
My question is:
Is it possible that the wiring is already there for the paddle shifter steering wheel even though my car came from the factory with standard steering wheel?
Should I give it a try, connect my steering wheel, leave the connectors as it is, do the coding and see if it works without carrying out the wiring from the SZL connector?
If it is not possible than should I just cut these wires (pin12 and pin13) from the SZL connector and solder my wires onto them so I can proceed with the original wiring plan?
I would really appreciate a quick response as everything is disassembled now and would be great to put everything back together asap so the car can be used.
Many Thanks!
if doing the M5 steering you need to work on steering wheel harness.
New Members
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 220
Likes: 3
From: Reno
My Ride: E61
Model Year: 2009
Engine: N54
Looks like I may have messed up something with this retrofit. Car runs fine and everything works as it should with the new SAT shifter and paddle shifters and with the instrument cluster. But I have a new problem now that I never have seen it before in my 8 years of owning this E61, that is overheating message in idrive. Driving on freeway seems to be fine, but as soon as I get into atop and go traffic, it shows up. I have to run it by running the climate control at max heat and max fan speed to keep the temps low around 80 during freeway and around 94 in stop and go.
All the programming went without errors while retrofitting.
1) Updated VO by removing 205 and adding 2TB to both CAS and LMA
2) Updated ZUSB firmware to the one ending with 7601458 from existing 7601460 -> Winkfp GKE215
3) Default coded KOMBI, KGM and EGS for stiffness and paddle shifters
Checked waterpump by turning it on via the 10s pedal method and it runs fine.
The odd behavior I did notice afer this retrofit is that the cooling fan turns on and off randomly at full speed even when you start the engine in the morning. How can one check if the thermostat is fine???
Let me know if you need any details inorder to diagnose this issue. I am regretting this retrofit for now and am really leaning to switch it back as I saved all the files before updating in NCSexpert
What could have possibly gone wrong, even when the fan turns ON at engine warm temps, it just turns on only breifly and that too not at full speed while the temps keep climbing. Somewhere it is not reading something properly is my guess. Last time when I ran, I had INPA live watcihng temps and the coolng fan never tried to lower the temps as it kept climbing until I turn on the climate control at max heat to cool down the engine.
OR is it just a conincidence that it needs a waterpump and thermostat replacement?
Is there a way to monitor the thermostat oepning, waterpump triggering and cooling fan triggering on INPA? Would be nice to have a way to monitor when and how they are turning ON and so on
All the programming went without errors while retrofitting.
1) Updated VO by removing 205 and adding 2TB to both CAS and LMA
2) Updated ZUSB firmware to the one ending with 7601458 from existing 7601460 -> Winkfp GKE215
3) Default coded KOMBI, KGM and EGS for stiffness and paddle shifters
Checked waterpump by turning it on via the 10s pedal method and it runs fine.
The odd behavior I did notice afer this retrofit is that the cooling fan turns on and off randomly at full speed even when you start the engine in the morning. How can one check if the thermostat is fine???
Let me know if you need any details inorder to diagnose this issue. I am regretting this retrofit for now and am really leaning to switch it back as I saved all the files before updating in NCSexpert
What could have possibly gone wrong, even when the fan turns ON at engine warm temps, it just turns on only breifly and that too not at full speed while the temps keep climbing. Somewhere it is not reading something properly is my guess. Last time when I ran, I had INPA live watcihng temps and the coolng fan never tried to lower the temps as it kept climbing until I turn on the climate control at max heat to cool down the engine.
OR is it just a conincidence that it needs a waterpump and thermostat replacement?
Is there a way to monitor the thermostat oepning, waterpump triggering and cooling fan triggering on INPA? Would be nice to have a way to monitor when and how they are turning ON and so on
Last edited by pavjayt; May 21, 2023 at 07:50 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 361
From: Augusta, GA
My Ride: 22 BMW 540i xDrive; 05 BMW 530i
Engine: 3.0 B58; 3.0 M54
The fan kicking in is telling you something isn't working. Thermostat sticks open when bad so that's not the issue but if you have to open the system up for anything it's best you change it then. Do you not have any errors. Usually it's the coolant sensor that's not working in this case. You should be able to see if the pump is being activated or not. Ohm out the sensor that sits on the radiator to see if it's good or not if you don't have a code. Your symptom is a classic fan issue. Not turning on when it needs to at the speed it needs to be.
New Members
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 220
Likes: 3
From: Reno
My Ride: E61
Model Year: 2009
Engine: N54
Looking at the codes, I have 2E81 code which seems to be related to waterpump. But then it is kicking in when test is initiated.
Thinking of testing the temp sensor, thermostat for proper functioning. Any tips on how to perform this test using software?
Thinking of testing the temp sensor, thermostat for proper functioning. Any tips on how to perform this test using software?
Last edited by donpb; May 23, 2023 at 08:08 PM. Reason: Spell check
