Retrofit Diamond key to Push Start/Stop
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My Ride: E31 with SBC, E65 B7, E61, 74 VW camper all original
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Has anyone done this retrofit. I have found some threads about this but it ends in no information about the retrofit.
Did miss something when searching ?
Did miss something when searching ?
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My Ride: 2006 BMW 530XI, CIC/Combox/TPMS Retrofit (CCC M-ASK Orig)
Model Year: 2006
Engine: N52
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I've been looking at this retrofit for a long time. Here's what I've surmised so far:
Premise
To perform this retrofit, I've gathered that you'll need (at the least):
I know this retrofit was ridiculous 10 years ago. Today, it should be doable for less than 500 bucks if you are patient enough on EBay and/or get lucky with finding an old e60 (06 or newer with push-to-start) in your local junk yards. Especially if you just go with the factory push-to-start that was from the similar years (i.e. 06-07)
The better retrofit would be taking the push-to-start from a 2010 or later, the ones where you can keep your key in your pocket and start the car, additionally adding CA (key in pocket, touch door handles to unlock car, or walk away from car and passive locking when you're far enough away - windows closing, mirrors folding, etc). I think the epic outcome would be well worth it if you have a car in good enough shape and for-instance know you would replace your motor/tranny long before you looked at another car. You're modernizing your car and if you have no rust and good enough circumstances you can take your car another 5-10 years.
Otherwise, I think it's better to buy another car that has the features you want.
Premise
- The diamond key turns a mechanical lock in the steering column, which unlocks the ignition lock allowing the steering wheel to move. There is a transponder in the diamond key that needs to authorize the CAS2 module to enable the crank signal and allow for ignition.
- The push to start setup includes an electronic locking mechanism in the steering column, which unlocks the ignition lock allowing the steering wheel to move. There is a transponder in the key fob that needs to authorize the CAS2 module to enable the crank signal and allow for ignition.
- In both cases, to start the car, either
- Turn the key (turn to back and release, whilst stepping on the brake), or
- Push the push to start button (full press and release, whilst stepping on the brake),
Both ignition systems automatically start the car (i.e. you do not turn and hold the diamond key fob untl the engine starts like in any other car). So even if your production date was just prior to the push to start button, your starter and ignition system is "prepped", at least in an 06 or newer.
To perform this retrofit, I've gathered that you'll need (at the least):
- A new steering column from a push to start production, or;
- Eletronic ignition locking mechanism, and
- Remote key fob module (goes where the mechanical column goes, where you turn your key - at least in a E60 5-series), and
- Any other components/trim necessary, and
- To rebuild your steering column.
- A CAS2 (Cascade) module from a push to start production
- A remote key fob that came with the CAS2 module
- The cable/ribbon that connects from the CAS2 to the remote fob module and to the push to start button
- The push to start button
- Either;
- The front facing dash trim with the hole pre-cut, or
- To modify your dash by cutting it to allow to install the push to start button
I know this retrofit was ridiculous 10 years ago. Today, it should be doable for less than 500 bucks if you are patient enough on EBay and/or get lucky with finding an old e60 (06 or newer with push-to-start) in your local junk yards. Especially if you just go with the factory push-to-start that was from the similar years (i.e. 06-07)
The better retrofit would be taking the push-to-start from a 2010 or later, the ones where you can keep your key in your pocket and start the car, additionally adding CA (key in pocket, touch door handles to unlock car, or walk away from car and passive locking when you're far enough away - windows closing, mirrors folding, etc). I think the epic outcome would be well worth it if you have a car in good enough shape and for-instance know you would replace your motor/tranny long before you looked at another car. You're modernizing your car and if you have no rust and good enough circumstances you can take your car another 5-10 years.
Otherwise, I think it's better to buy another car that has the features you want.
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