Programming Car with a PSU
#1
Thread Starter
Members
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Belgium, Aalst
My Ride: BMW E60 525dA 11-2004 Silver
HUD, BT, Voice Control, Active Seats, Seat Heating (front), Xenon HID, Navigation Professional with CCC, Leather Dakota Black, Folding mirros, anti-glare mirrors in+outside, HiFi, CiC retrofitted, Aux in, CD Changer, Dension 500GW, etc...
Hi guys,
I'm about to finish up on my CiC install that I got from Patryk and working sweet at the moment.
However he needs to finish up some programming and I bought myself a power supply that can output 13.8V at 30A.
http://www.rigpix.com/psu/propower_ps1330.htm and here http://www.electronic-direct.be/prod...hop.htm?lng=en
The question is where and how is it best connected?
Do I connect it to the terminals under the hood with the battery still in the trunk?
Do I disconnect the battery and connect the power supply instead in the trunk?
During programming the contact only has to be in position 2 (the engine does not have to be started). Is there a change I damage the modules or the battery using these methods?
Thanks a lot guys for the help, I'll be posting my experience with the CiC retrofit and a bit later the Combox experience.
Ciao,
Sven
I'm about to finish up on my CiC install that I got from Patryk and working sweet at the moment.
However he needs to finish up some programming and I bought myself a power supply that can output 13.8V at 30A.
http://www.rigpix.com/psu/propower_ps1330.htm and here http://www.electronic-direct.be/prod...hop.htm?lng=en
The question is where and how is it best connected?
Do I connect it to the terminals under the hood with the battery still in the trunk?
Do I disconnect the battery and connect the power supply instead in the trunk?
During programming the contact only has to be in position 2 (the engine does not have to be started). Is there a change I damage the modules or the battery using these methods?
Thanks a lot guys for the help, I'll be posting my experience with the CiC retrofit and a bit later the Combox experience.
Ciao,
Sven
#2
Hi guys,
I'm about to finish up on my CiC install that I got from Patryk and working sweet at the moment.
However he needs to finish up some programming and I bought myself a power supply that can output 13.8V at 30A.
http://www.rigpix.co...ower_ps1330.htm and here http://www.electroni...shop.htm?lng=en
The question is where and how is it best connected?
Do I connect it to the terminals under the hood with the battery still in the trunk?
Do I disconnect the battery and connect the power supply instead in the trunk?
During programming the contact only has to be in position 2 (the engine does not have to be started). Is there a change I damage the modules or the battery using these methods?
Thanks a lot guys for the help, I'll be posting my experience with the CiC retrofit and a bit later the Combox experience.
Ciao,
Sven
I'm about to finish up on my CiC install that I got from Patryk and working sweet at the moment.
However he needs to finish up some programming and I bought myself a power supply that can output 13.8V at 30A.
http://www.rigpix.co...ower_ps1330.htm and here http://www.electroni...shop.htm?lng=en
The question is where and how is it best connected?
Do I connect it to the terminals under the hood with the battery still in the trunk?
Do I disconnect the battery and connect the power supply instead in the trunk?
During programming the contact only has to be in position 2 (the engine does not have to be started). Is there a change I damage the modules or the battery using these methods?
Thanks a lot guys for the help, I'll be posting my experience with the CiC retrofit and a bit later the Combox experience.
Ciao,
Sven
#3
Thread Starter
Members
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Belgium, Aalst
My Ride: BMW E60 525dA 11-2004 Silver
HUD, BT, Voice Control, Active Seats, Seat Heating (front), Xenon HID, Navigation Professional with CCC, Leather Dakota Black, Folding mirros, anti-glare mirrors in+outside, HiFi, CiC retrofitted, Aux in, CD Changer, Dension 500GW, etc...
If this "power supply" functions EXACTLY like a 12V DC trickle charger / battery maintainer it should be connected to the posts under the hood / bonnet. HOWEVER, if this thing is a power supply like those intended for a PC etc I would NOT connect it to the car anywhere / anyhow. The risk of damaging any modules is far too great and far too expensive to risk that! (IMHO)
#4
I'm taking a different approach.
I have zero familiarity with these PSU systems being discussed and seem awfully complex for simple battery tending.
So instead I'm going with an automotive charger, maintainer, and starting system (aka premium battery tender). This unit below for example is simple and fully automatic with microprocessor controller. You simply select the battery type, size, and it does the rest. It will automatically monitor the battery condition and dynamically adjust charging amperage between 2A, 12A, and 30A in order to maintain the target voltage. It also includes a digital voltage meter and a bunch of other features. Though just as expensive as a PSU, personally I think I'd get much more mileage out of this system.
PDF Manual
I have zero familiarity with these PSU systems being discussed and seem awfully complex for simple battery tending.
So instead I'm going with an automotive charger, maintainer, and starting system (aka premium battery tender). This unit below for example is simple and fully automatic with microprocessor controller. You simply select the battery type, size, and it does the rest. It will automatically monitor the battery condition and dynamically adjust charging amperage between 2A, 12A, and 30A in order to maintain the target voltage. It also includes a digital voltage meter and a bunch of other features. Though just as expensive as a PSU, personally I think I'd get much more mileage out of this system.
PDF Manual
#5
Thread Starter
Members
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Belgium, Aalst
My Ride: BMW E60 525dA 11-2004 Silver
HUD, BT, Voice Control, Active Seats, Seat Heating (front), Xenon HID, Navigation Professional with CCC, Leather Dakota Black, Folding mirros, anti-glare mirrors in+outside, HiFi, CiC retrofitted, Aux in, CD Changer, Dension 500GW, etc...
I'm taking a different approach.
I have zero familiarity with these PSU systems being discussed and seem awfully complex for simple battery tending.
So instead I'm going with an automotive charger, maintainer, and starting system (aka premium battery tender). This unit below for example is simple and fully automatic with microprocessor controller. You simply select the battery type, size, and it does the rest. It will automatically monitor the battery condition and dynamically adjust charging amperage between 2A, 12A, and 30A in order to maintain the target voltage. It also includes a digital voltage meter and a bunch of other features. Though just as expensive as a PSU, personally I think I'd get much more mileage out of this system.
I have zero familiarity with these PSU systems being discussed and seem awfully complex for simple battery tending.
So instead I'm going with an automotive charger, maintainer, and starting system (aka premium battery tender). This unit below for example is simple and fully automatic with microprocessor controller. You simply select the battery type, size, and it does the rest. It will automatically monitor the battery condition and dynamically adjust charging amperage between 2A, 12A, and 30A in order to maintain the target voltage. It also includes a digital voltage meter and a bunch of other features. Though just as expensive as a PSU, personally I think I'd get much more mileage out of this system.
Well I kind of did a similar approach yesterday when trying to code with Patryk with my battery charger. http://shop.conrad-uk.com/car/mainte...rs/856319.html
Problem with this thing is that it charges till full and then shuts off :@ and to make things even better when I hook it up to a charged battery it says: "battery faulty please check dealer" grrr. What I do now is turn on the seat heating for a while so the battery isn't full and then connect the charger so it has something to charge . After a while I just reduce the seat heating to minimum and it keeps on loading nicely. When needed it can give a 30A boost
Thanks for the tips & help,
Sven
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