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Pre-LCI (2004) $522 (Xenon) to LCI $524 (AHL Dynamic Xenon) retrofit

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Old 12-15-2021, 11:52 PM
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@smartshah I'm about to start this project. All the parts are there, got the connectors from the dealership, no point in waiting
Quick last-minute question though - where did you get the PT CAN from? You mentioned that it's not too far from LM2.
I don't have AS or DD so I can't tap there.

Is the SGM module the closest?

One more thing - I've been trying to find a twisted pair wire for the PT-CAN but I can't find the parameters (how many twists per meter etc). Would a normal shielded cable work there as long as both Low and High are equal length? I don't wanna introduce any interference to the PT-CAN.

Thanks!

Last edited by xardas; 12-16-2021 at 12:10 AM.
Old 12-16-2021, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by xardas
@smartshah I'm about to start this project. All the parts are there, got the connectors from the dealership, no point in waiting
Quick last-minute question though - where did you get the PT CAN from? You mentioned that it's not too far from LM2.
I don't have AS or DD so I can't tap there.

Is the SGM module the closest?

One more thing - I've been trying to find a twisted pair wire for the PT-CAN but I can't find the parameters (how many twists per meter etc). Would a normal shielded cable work there as long as both Low and High are equal length? I don't wanna introduce any interference to the PT-CAN.

Thanks!
The PT CAN will be located at the drivers footwell remove carpet. You should see the twisted wires hetshrunk on them.

If your car is left hand drive then you have to splice here

Old 12-16-2021, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by smartshah
The PT CAN will be located at the drivers footwell remove carpet. You should see the twisted wires hetshrunk on them.
My car's actually RHD like yours but that probably won't cause any problems
What about the cable to use for PT-CAN? Will any twisted pair do or do I need to get something CAN-specific like so:
https://bitner.com.pl/produkty/szcze...bus-drag-chain
Old 12-16-2021, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by xardas
My car's actually RHD like yours but that probably won't cause any problems
What about the cable to use for PT-CAN? Will any twisted pair do or do I need to get something CAN-specific like so:
https://bitner.com.pl/produkty/szcze...bus-drag-chain
If it is right hand drive then you will find it here.
You will see 2 wires spliced together twisted. And a clear heatshrink over them. Just cut open the heatshrink.

The wires you have just twist them together equal. Length. Twist a meter of red and black. That should be plenty. Solder the wires onto the PT-CAN and then heatshrink them. Then solder the wires onto the connectors you got from BMW


Old 12-16-2021, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by smartshah
If it is right hand drive then you will find it here.
You will see 2 wires spliced together twisted. And a clear heatshrink over them. Just cut open the heatshrink.

The wires you have just twist them together equal. Length. Twist a meter of red and black. That should be plenty. Solder the wires onto the PT-CAN and then heatshrink them. Then solder the wires onto the connectors you got from BMW
Thanks! That all I needed to know, will post updates here after it all works



Old 12-16-2021, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by xardas
Thanks! That all I needed to know, will post updates here after it all works

It will work take your time
Old 12-16-2021, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by xardas
Thanks! That all I needed to know, will post updates here after it all works

Forgot to mention. Twist the wires and then tessa tape them. In order to get to the PTCAN wires, you will have to remove carpet. Remove bonnet latch. Remove kick panels. Push the seat far back as you can. I used a gas powered solder iron. It took long. If you can use the normal soldering iron, and a heat gun to shrink wrap the joint. The PT CAN wires are pretty short at the joint. If you want to expose more of the PT CAN wire, you will have to remove the seat etc. The extra wire you have gives you more leeway.

And please keep the battery disconnected whilst you do this. When you do the LCI plug at the front lights, ensure you crimp them well. The right crimper makes life very easy. Let me know how you get on.

I just changed out the Windscreen Washer motors on an X5 E70 LCI. Book time states 2 to 4 hours. Took me 3 hours as I took my time. Removed the filters, and changed them with BMW new ones. Changed 3 motors. It was easy. People make it sound so hard. The hardest part for me was to remove the wheel lol.
Old 12-20-2021, 07:13 AM
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@smartshah
An update: I've installed, repinned and coded the LM2. Installed LCI tail lights. Fronts stay pre-LCI for now because I sent them to be reconditioned (reflectors and lens).
Everything went smoothly and all of the LCI features work. Obviously the AHL is disabled for now, although the PT-CAN was connected and the car still starts which is nice.

For the headlights my plan is a bit different because I cut and solder the front lamp connections anyway, so I made myself a chart (took hours to figure this out but I believe it's 99.999% correct). That way I don't have to move too many pins around at the LM



Thanks for the help! I'll post an update after the LCI headlights are on
Old 12-20-2021, 07:33 AM
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Well done. Great progress. The LCI adaptive headlights is soo much easier, once you have the adaptive foundation set. However you have to change the VO from 2007, cant remember the month. But this knocks off your fogging or rain sensor. I cant exactly remember which. This is why i never bothered with the LCI headlights. And i just swapped the pins around for the rear LCI lights and coded the LED cold monitoring off. So I dont have to add another entry to the VO.

I kept the headlights pre lci. And what i did was buy some cotton led angel eye rings from china. £50 delivered. Opened the headlights, and fit and wire them in. The headlights look very good. And the Angel Eyes are extremely bright. Probably as good as the Orion V4 which are £400 delivered.
Old 12-20-2021, 07:37 AM
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I think LCI headligts won't be a problem because I added +MUEB to VO and changed the production date to 0305, at that point the AHL module was no longer in use but the RLS (rain sensor) still communicated over K-CAN and not LIN as in >2007 models

One thing that's weird is that I updated VO/FA on LM2 but INPA still can't talk to it (despite it showing in the identification with the right P/N and FA). The error's about expecting LM_60 and getting LM2_60 or something, same if I select the AHL variant.


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