Parts Required for Transmission pan replacement and oil change
 

Hey guys,

The title says it all! Lately I've been having clunky gear changes and the terrible downshift to first at ALL stops, the RPM fluctuates while cruising between 50-85km/h and occasionally lags at take off. I've done a lot of browsing on this forum, and all fingers are pointing to low transmission fluid or mechatronic failure, So I'll start with the fluid, and I believe I can do the job myself avoiding the hefty servicing fee by BMW :)

Has anybody done it and can recommend some hints and tricks? Am I right in my assumption?

From what I've gathered, I'll need the following parts:

1 x Oil pan with oil filter, Gasket, O-ring, Screw plug Kit - 24152333903
21 x Torx Screw - 24117552108

And may possibly need this:

1 x Mechatronic Sealing Sleeve - 24347588725

After the change, I'll do a transmission adaptation reset in INPA. Or should I try this first with a top up of fluid?

Looks like you've got the parts in order. Don't forget the fluid! lol Buy ramps for the front wheels and a couple of jackstands for the rear to level out your car.

Just make sure you follow ZF transmission servicing procedures to a T! These fluids are very finicky with temperature so I'd suggest you buy a poultry/meat temp guage with a probe and wire to measure the correct temperature while servicing. I used approximately 7.5 liters of ZF Lifeguard 6 for my 6HP26 transmission.

I have read how some say their torx screw bolt heads just broke off while removing but I had no such problem. I was able to reuse all my bolts.

My sealing sleeve was fine, and have heard how the o-ring can go bad so I thought I may as well replace it since I'm doing the fluid change. Installing the sleeve was a complete PITA! (pain in the ass) There is just no room to manually insert the sleeve with your hands alone. In fact, just to get the sleeve in position required you to maneuver it from the side of the pan and guiding it up to its location! And this is only the beginning. You now have to somehow blindly position the sleeve correctly over the connector (there is a key in sleeve) which can only go in one way. I tried using a large screwdriver to push it in but, it having a fresh o-ring made it virtually impossible to get in. After over an hour trying (the tranny gods weren't listening to my prayers), I put my old one back in. I learned after the fact I should of greased the o-ring lol, oh well you live and you learn.

Reset the adaptation values. Good luck

Thank you for the details e6t lab rat :)

I'll be sure to pre-grease the O-Ring! I had a look at getting some ramps and stands for the car, is a ratchet stand a better option for this task? If there is no need for it then I'll just get standard pin stands :)

I really hope this service fixes the issues! If not, then its probably something much more expensive! is there a special tool or trick to pour the new fluid into the filler hole? it looks like its in a tough area to pour a bottle of fluid in to :/

cheers,

Matt

I used a ratchet type jack stands along with a floor jack placed under differential to level out the car and for added support (just in case). Personally I prefer pin type jack stands but the ones I had were too small/short. The ratchet worked fine for me.

As far as refilling with fluid, you will have to find a pump to do it. I used a pump that you would just attach to the mouth of the liter bottle.

No problems at all :)

I searched supercheap auto and they sell pumps that will do the job for next to nothing :)

I do have one more question though:

How did you get the ratchet under the car? do they go down far enough to fit under the car, using the stock bmw car jack to lift it up? or will I need to purchase a bigger jack to get the required minimum height!

cheers,

Matt

.
Drive the front of the car up the ramps. You're then going to need a floor jack (at least a 2 ton) to lift the rear, place the jack stands under the rear part of frame located just behind the differential on both sides or, you could use the stock jack to lift one side and place jack stand under the frame then do the other side. With the floor jack you'll be able to place both at once. If your jack stands are big/tall enough you may be able to place them under the OEM jack points, technically called the "support lifting platforms." I used the mounting surface of the pan to level out the car. Always have your jack stands in place under the vehicle while leveling.

PLEASE TAKE ALL THE NECESSARY PRECAUTIONS WHEN LIFTING ANY VEHICLE OFF THE FLOOR. NEVER SUPPORT A VEHICLE WITH JUST THE LIFTING FLOOR JACK ALONE, ALWAYS USE THE APPROPRIATELY RATED JACK STANDS INSTEAD. Good luck

Thank you for your help mate,

All the parts are on their way now! And I'll pick up the second jack (already have one at home) and the pair of ratchet stands next week when I'm home.

With any luck, this will make the car enjoyable to drive again and I won't look like an idiot when the car jolts to a stop at the lights.

Cheers again mate,

Matt

:thumbsup:

Keep us posted! B)

DONE! :)

the old oil was still quite clear but did smell a bit burnt, I didn't end up needing a jack or stands as one of my mates has a pit :)

the change was pretty simple, and the write up on changing the oil on this forum was easy to follow!

the changes are smoother and the slam into first gear is almost completely gone, along with the RPM fluctuations :) I tried to reset the adaption values in INPA, but the settings weren't there! I went into the correct area, but the F3 option to clear adaption wasn't on the list.

none the less, its a much smoother transmission :)

Good to go. I have to do mine one of these days as well.