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Opening up e60 headlights?

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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 05:40 AM
  #41  
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I honestly think its impossible to simply heat and remove the lens as shown in the video. Because the glue is coving 3 out of the 4 sides, you cannot just heat and remove. However, i think he either removed the glue layer under the plastic bit by bit which will take forever (i tried this on my pre lci headlights and gave up) or it was opened before and he must of used silicon or other heat reactive glue to seal them and used a heat gun to open them up again.

As for the temperature i used, well i didn't measure it but i used my heat gun on low and took my time to make sure the plastic didn't melt of bubble, i cut the sides with a dremel tool, then heat that part for about 7-10 sec with the heat gun then used a sharp blade to cut through the glue where i used the dremel to cut the plastic, then with a screw driver, i slowly peal the plastic and the glue together in one lump.
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 06:38 AM
  #42  
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It is possible to simply heat and remove lens without cutting anything. I did it on my first headlight. In this case is outer side of U shaped flange much more damaged but still repairable.
On my another headlights I use utility knife (and some lubricant) to cut sealant on outer side of the lens from top to bottom of the groove. Then I used thin screwdriver to remove maximum amount of the sealant.
I heat only small section of the sealant (about 6"), longer time and slowly so I heat full volume of the sealant not only surface. If I remember, I started on inner bottom side of the headlights.
After opening I removed old sealant from groove.
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 07:23 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Laco19
It is possible to simply heat and remove lens without cutting anything. I did it on my first headlight. In this case is outer side of U shaped flange much more damaged but still repairable.
On my another headlights I use utility knife (and some lubricant) to cut sealant on outer side of the lens from top to bottom of the groove. Then I used thin screwdriver to remove maximum amount of the sealant.
I heat only small section of the sealant (about 6"), longer time and slowly so I heat full volume of the sealant not only surface. If I remember, I started on inner bottom side of the headlights.
After opening I removed old sealant from groove.
Exactly as you said, the top plastic was damaged on yours. I cut to the chase and just removed the top bit. Personally i think repairing the plastic in your case will look a bit messy. For my headlights all you see is the black sealant which i think will look a bit neater.

Originally Posted by Laco19
On my another headlights I use utility knife (and some lubricant) to cut sealant on outer side of the lens from top to bottom of the groove. Then I used thin screwdriver to remove maximum amount of the sealant.
And thats what i mentions earlier, you need to remove the glue under the plastic bit by bit. But by just heating and removing the lens as shown in the video i still think its impossible without doing any of the steps i mentioned above. End of the day its a win win as long as the lens is not cut
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 02:11 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by CALIC
Exactly as you said, the top plastic was damaged on yours. I cut to the chase and just removed the top bit. Personally i think repairing the plastic in your case will look a bit messy. For my headlights all you see is the black sealant which i think will look a bit neater.



And thats what i mentions earlier, you need to remove the glue under the plastic bit by bit. But by just heating and removing the lens as shown in the video i still think its impossible without doing any of the steps i mentioned above. End of the day its a win win as long as the lens is not cut
Yeah, I agree. I think the key is getting it removed where there is no heat damage on the lens and minimal whether cut or heat on the plastic, thats what really scares the hell out of me. When all was removed, how tightly does the lens go back in position?
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Old Jun 20, 2014 | 02:44 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by tonyb635
Yeah, I agree. I think the key is getting it removed where there is no heat damage on the lens and minimal whether cut or heat on the plastic, thats what really scares the hell out of me. When all was removed, how tightly does the lens go back in position?
when i tried putting it together (old glue still there), it was a lil tight. After removing the glue it was a bit loose but not much.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 11:31 AM
  #46  
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Get yourself a tube of Sikaflex 221 and I guarantee the lens will not fall out.

The only thing stopping me doing this is the cost of the V4s I would want to put in them. I have too many other things higher on the list.

Last edited by Redtwin; Jun 22, 2014 at 11:34 AM.
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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 11:55 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Redtwin
Get yourself a tube of Sikaflex 221 and I guarantee the lens will not fall out.

The only thing stopping me doing this is the cost of the V4s I would want to put in them. I have too many other things higher on the list.
Thanks mate. Is there any shop thats sells these? as i just had a quick search but couldn't find it in any shops other than the net.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 10:41 AM
  #48  
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It is mostly used by the body repair trade. If you have a trade supplier (not Halfords or small motorfactors) nearby try them or maybe an actual repair shop could sell you a tube from their stock.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 11:32 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by CALIC
.... Personally i think repairing the plastic in your case will look a bit messy. For my headlights all you see is the black sealant which i think will look a bit neater....
I made some photo from repaired plastics that have been damaged when opening.
Sealant can not look better .


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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 11:51 AM
  #50  
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dont be afraid of using the dremel tool.

ive done over 100 sets now...its pretty easy if you go slowly.
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