New rotors with new pads?
#1
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So I just got my new brake pads in the mail today. My buddy was going to help me out with the install but I might just take it to a shop because I cant get a hold of him. I have about 80k miles on the car. The question I had is, is it OK to only replace the pads? I was reading on another e46 forum that its best to replace rotors and pads at the same time. What do you guys think? Is there any shops you recommend like Brake check etc?
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Depends on the lip of your rotor. If you can rub your thumb up on the top lip and feel the steel edge it might be time to replace the rotor. If not, pads will do. Don't pay more than $40 for install. In all honesty, you're paying same labor to replace a rotor AND pads since you have to remove the caliper you might as well do both at the same time. Plus, forget OEM equipment, get some aftermarket which is better quality for less money.
P.S. - Your sig doesn't show what BMW you have. Is it a 530?
P.S. - Your sig doesn't show what BMW you have. Is it a 530?
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You do not need to replace the rotors when replacing pads. A lot of shops will tell you this so they can make some extra $$$$.
With your car only having 80k miles on it, the thickness of the rotors should be well within specs, unless you are constantly on the brakes. You can take your car to any tire shop that does brake work, and they can check the rotor thickness with a micrometer to see if their within specs. Shouldn't take anymore than 15 minutes, and a lot of shops will do it as a free service. You can always go buy or loan a micrometer from a parts store, and check them yourself, as the tool is pretty cheap. Here is what a micrometer looks like http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Au...72-234-222.htm
Only other reasons you would need to change rotors other than minimal thickness would be if you have vibration issues while braking which usually indicates a warped rotor....but if the rotors are within specs, you can take the rotors to any machine shop and they can "turn" the rotors for about 15-20 bucks per rotor.
Last, if your rotors have deep gouges in them, this would indicate the need for new rotors, BUT again, if the rotors are within specs, they usually can be turned to get the gouges out.
With your car only having 80k miles on it, the thickness of the rotors should be well within specs, unless you are constantly on the brakes. You can take your car to any tire shop that does brake work, and they can check the rotor thickness with a micrometer to see if their within specs. Shouldn't take anymore than 15 minutes, and a lot of shops will do it as a free service. You can always go buy or loan a micrometer from a parts store, and check them yourself, as the tool is pretty cheap. Here is what a micrometer looks like http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Au...72-234-222.htm
Only other reasons you would need to change rotors other than minimal thickness would be if you have vibration issues while braking which usually indicates a warped rotor....but if the rotors are within specs, you can take the rotors to any machine shop and they can "turn" the rotors for about 15-20 bucks per rotor.
Last, if your rotors have deep gouges in them, this would indicate the need for new rotors, BUT again, if the rotors are within specs, they usually can be turned to get the gouges out.
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A lip may or may not be present. If one is then you need to re-true, but that depends on rotor thickness. With 80K miles, those rotors have seen some good miles and it may be time to consider replacing them. How many brake pad changes have you gone through? With 80k miles, thats at least 2 brake pad changes.
What really matters is the actual thickness of the rotors itself. The minimum thickness of the rotors are stamped on the rotor themselves, usually on or inside the hub. If you're within 1mm of the minimum, I'd recommend replacing them as most places will refuse to re-true or turn your rotors. Good luck
What really matters is the actual thickness of the rotors itself. The minimum thickness of the rotors are stamped on the rotor themselves, usually on or inside the hub. If you're within 1mm of the minimum, I'd recommend replacing them as most places will refuse to re-true or turn your rotors. Good luck
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#9
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Wtf a local Euro shop near me quoted 250 for the pad replacement?! And all other shops say they don't want to replace the pads that I have
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What really matters is the actual thickness of the rotors itself. The minimum thickness of the rotors are stamped on the rotor themselves, usually on or inside the hub. If you're within 1mm of the minimum, I'd recommend replacing them as most places will refuse to re-true or turn your rotors. Good luck
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That's interesting, because the shop that I use tells me that the rotors that are on my car are not serviceable.. meaning they can't be turned. I thought that didn't sound right.
[/quote]
That's interesting, because the shop that I use tells me that the rotors that are on my car are not serviceable.. meaning they can't be turned. I thought that didn't sound right.