monacobmw

Guys, my 530i still has vibration with the 19" replica #166 tires even though I have done just about all possible. One of our posters has told us that we should reduce the tire pressure to 34/32 to reduce the vibration. My wheel guy states that all this is doing is making the tires more flexible to reduce some of the balancing issues.

When I asked for advice, everyone told me that I needed 74/72.5 hubcentric rings. I clearly need the rings. On 1010 tires, they sell rings with outside diameters of 75 and 76. How do we know that every replica wheel is 74mm outside? If the outside was really 74.5mm or 75mm, the use of a 74mm ring would certainly reduce the vibration compared to the 72.5 inside, but there would be some more mild vibration in the 40-70mph range. These wheels are made in Italy and China, so I am not sure that they are all keeping up with modern BMW specs.

When I had my wheels with no rings, the vibration was violent even at 30mph. Perhaps, I need to go back to see if the outside diameter is too small with the 74mm outsides.

I raise these issues, because I spent a lot of time with the Hunter 9700 getting the wheels and tires right. Even if you have a bad tire, the Hunter 9700 machine can work with it to balance it with certain weights in certain places. With nothing else left to grasp on, maybe the rings are still the issue.

How do we know that every replica wheel maker is using the same 74mm outside wheel? Perhaps they want their replicas to fit the most models possible, so they make the diameters the largest possible? If they only wanted the #166s to fit the BMW, why not use 72.56 from the start?

Any ideas here? Has anyone put the rings on the inside of the wheels to see if the fit is snug? My wheel guy only put the rings on the hub. If the outside measurements are 74.5mm, perhaps a 75mm plastic ring would work because the extra plastic would just get smashed in the hub, but it would fill the whole thing. Thoughts?

Best regards,

Ricracing

Replica!? Hubcentric rings!?

Sorry to say but go and buy a OEM set of wheels.

Do not destroy your fine car with lousy wheels!

I.e. BMW Style 172.
A complete set costs € 2111.

Komplettradsatz Sommer (org. BMW)
Felge: M Doppelspeiche 172, Leichtmetall
Felge (Vorne): 8.5x19 ET:18
Felge (Hinten): 9.5x19 ET:32

Reifen: Dunlop Sport MAXX (non RF)
Reifen (Vorne): 245/35 R19 93Y
Reifen (Hinten): 275/30 R19 96Y

monacobmw

Oh, I totally agree, but I want to give my Replicas one last shot. In addition, if I go with OEM's I will want to sell my replicas, and I do not want to sell a problem to someone else if I can help it.

In addition, there are many of us here looking for advice on a good solution to the issue.

olli_535d

If your copies are chinese, they just might be bad.

My replicas are made in Germany with TUV approval and they sit perfectly snug and are running like a dream for over half a year and 10k miles. Also using the 74 to 72.5 rings.

monacobmw

I'd like to think that I just have bad wheels, but the road force Hunter 9700 machine shows them perfectly balanced with tires at high speeds.

That is why we use the Hunter machine. It would tell me if the wheels could not balance.

On the other hand, it if there is a 0.5mm gap in the hub and every time the wheel turns it rotates over the hub, there will be some vibration.

I appreciate your input, and maybe you are right even with the Hunter balance. I am just trying to logically consider a lot of possibilities to help a lot of people here.

Best,

olli_535d

As you rightly assume, bad could also mean too much tolerance within the centre bore.

If you don't find the reason within there, I've come to an end with my latin, too.

zen

Why don't you just buy beg or borrow a "inside / outside" caliper (micrometer) and measure the outside diameter of the hub and the inside diameter of the wheel. Then you will find out what you need. Isn't any rocket science.