E60, E61 Parts, Accessories and Mods Discussion about both stock and aftermarket parts for the E60. Accessories and modifications too!

Got my white LED plate lights working without warning triangle!

Old Nov 1, 2006 | 07:16 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by alpinewhite' post='351153' date='Nov 1 2006, 11:05 AM
really? i notice mine when my friends told me about it. (strobe) after 10 sec, it becomes solid.
I can double or even triple check this evening for u ...
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:36 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by lcc014' post='351157' date='Nov 2 2006, 12:16 AM
I can double or even triple check this evening for u ...
maybe E60 has a different light checking system than E39 ??? it just keep un-stable ( computer keep sending checking signal rather than like E60 for 10sec check up )
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 05:15 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by alpinewhite' post='351153' date='Nov 1 2006, 11:05 AM
really? i notice mine when my friends told me about it. (strobe) after 10 sec, it becomes solid.
I checked it with different people standing in the back of my car, no flashing/blinking white LED right after the car was started.
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 07:08 AM
  #44  
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guess my car is special.
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 07:35 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by alpinewhite' post='352910' date='Nov 6 2006, 11:08 AM
guess my car is special.
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 06:31 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Don Juan' post='324933' date='Aug 21 2006, 09:06 AM
can you beilve this...2 of the LED littke LED lights burned out , now the right light flickers like a bad flurescent light argg i should have bought more... AND I thouhgt the LEDs will alst longer??? anyone know?
The LED bulbs are not to blame. The issue is heat exposure from the resistors. LED bulbs produce little or not heat, however, they are very sensitive to external heat sources. The resistors do not get hot enough to melt or deform the plastic housings, but they will toast a set of LEDs in time. The flickering indicates pending bulb failure, not voltage issues.

You should remote mount the resistors away from the light housings. There is plenty of space underneath the trunk lid trim. In addition, I would advise against using ceramic type resistors. Aluminum housed resistors are much better for heat disappation. Arcol is a good brand. You can purchase these from on-line suppliers such as www.mouser.com for $2 to $3 each, or pay three to four times more from one of the LED suppliers. I have performed the license plate mod successfully on E39, E60, and E90 models, using 9-LED festoons from different suppliers.
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 08:25 AM
  #47  
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You should remote mount the resistors away from the light housings. There is plenty of space underneath the trunk lid trim. In addition, I would advise against using ceramic type resistors. Aluminum housed resistors are much better for heat disappation. Arcol is a good brand. You can purchase these from on-line suppliers such as www.mouser.com for $2 to $3 each, or pay three to four times more from one of the LED suppliers. I have performed the license plate mod successfully on E39, E60, and E90 models, using 9-LED festoons from different suppliers.
[/quote]

Awesome information - could you supply guidance on the parts (LED and resistors) and perhaps take some pics of how you did yours? Sounds like you have a lot of knowledge....I want to do this but not run into any problems.
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 09:50 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by dba1t' post='357594' date='Nov 18 2006, 10:31 PM
The LED bulbs are not to blame. The issue is heat exposure from the resistors. LED bulbs produce little or not heat, however, they are very sensitive to external heat sources. The resistors do not get hot enough to melt or deform the plastic housings, but they will toast a set of LEDs in time. The flickering indicates pending bulb failure, not voltage issues.

You should remote mount the resistors away from the light housings. There is plenty of space underneath the trunk lid trim. In addition, I would advise against using ceramic type resistors. Aluminum housed resistors are much better for heat disappation. Arcol is a good brand. You can purchase these from on-line suppliers such as www.mouser.com for $2 to $3 each, or pay three to four times more from one of the LED suppliers. I have performed the license plate mod successfully on E39, E60, and E90 models, using 9-LED festoons from different suppliers.
My friend's Sam license plate bulb with no resistors (he gets the warning everytime he turns on his car) dies after awhile too. I believe heat is the problem, but it could also be because of the bad bulb. I had mine for about a month, with resistors, and they died. My friend had it for about 1-2 month also without resistors and they died. So I'm guessing heat have little to do with it some times. It could just be bad bulbs.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 06:36 AM
  #49  
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Has anyone done this mod for a E46? Unlike the e60 number plate lights, on the e46 only the clear perspex cover comes off allowing access to only the bulb. Does anyone how you get access to in behind the bulb so that you can put the resistor in there?? Sorry if its stupid Q.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:12 PM
  #50  
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I bought the same LEDs as you guys and the BEST resistors, 25W, aluminum cooling housing. 47 Ohms (there is no 50)

Installed everything but I still get the warning triangle. But sometimes not. Like 1 start out of 5 will not show a failure for one of the lamps. Bottom line: no good.

Restored everything to original. For those few minutes while installing the new LEDs looked GORGEUS. I really love the cool look. Really disappointing to put back the yellow ones.

Why is this?!?


Greg

ps. those plastic hinges are a real b*tch. I damaged the holes (for the screwdriver) badly. It can maybe take one or two installations then it breaks.
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