E60 speaker impedance
#1
Senior Members
Thread Starter
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Trying to get my head around what the impedance is in the EU standard audio (6 speakers).
So there are 4 mid-range speakers (front doors and rear shelf) and 2 underseat subs all @ 4 ohms.
1. The front door speakers are wired in parallel with the under seat subs, so per channel the impedance is 4/2 = 2 ohms per channel and the rear shelf speakers are 4 ohms per channel?
Is that about right?
2. Now I went and added L7 tweeters to the front/rear (now having 10 speakers, same as HIFI audio) but not sure if they are also connected in parallel or in series with the mid-ranges? Does anyone know for sure? Master Bruce?
3. If they are wired in parallel then after the addition of the tweeters, the impedance on the front becomes 4/3 = 1.333 ohms per channel and in the rear is 4/2 = 2 ohms per channel right? (would make sense since the subs are pretty quiet now)
4. I want to add an amp and Earthquake SWS-8 for the underseats subs, therefore removing the load of the subs completely from the head unit and I'm trying to anticipate if this will have a detrimental effect on the sound. Since the inputs will come from the factory sub cable, will the head unit still think it has the subs attached?
So there are 4 mid-range speakers (front doors and rear shelf) and 2 underseat subs all @ 4 ohms.
1. The front door speakers are wired in parallel with the under seat subs, so per channel the impedance is 4/2 = 2 ohms per channel and the rear shelf speakers are 4 ohms per channel?
Is that about right?
2. Now I went and added L7 tweeters to the front/rear (now having 10 speakers, same as HIFI audio) but not sure if they are also connected in parallel or in series with the mid-ranges? Does anyone know for sure? Master Bruce?
3. If they are wired in parallel then after the addition of the tweeters, the impedance on the front becomes 4/3 = 1.333 ohms per channel and in the rear is 4/2 = 2 ohms per channel right? (would make sense since the subs are pretty quiet now)
4. I want to add an amp and Earthquake SWS-8 for the underseats subs, therefore removing the load of the subs completely from the head unit and I'm trying to anticipate if this will have a detrimental effect on the sound. Since the inputs will come from the factory sub cable, will the head unit still think it has the subs attached?
#2
Senior Members
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,845
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
My Ride: 2008 535i:
(8/07 Build) Metallic Bronze, Beige NASCA Leather, Ventilated Seats, Sport Pkg, Cold Wxr Pkg, Logic-7 Sound, HUD, Night Vision, PDC, Split Rear Seats, NAV, Premium Pkg, Comfort Access, HD Radio, Sport Auto Trans
Current mods: M-Aero Kit, JB4, Motorcepts 6000k HID Foglamps
Umnitza ICE-Lite 10w LED 6000k AE's
1992 Camaro RS:
Fully Restored w/Custom Interior, 5.0L V8, T-tops, OEM Z28 Foglamps, Inst Cluster, & Spoiler, Custom Sound, Too many engine mods to list
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you trying to retrofit an L-7 sound system or are you just looking to improve your current setup?
Most car speakers and amps run at 4 ohms - There are no difference between the U.S. and Asia, so I doubt there is an EU difference.
Your ohm calculations when putting speakers in parallel are correct. However, you will need to make sure that both the speakers and headunit will be stable when operating at that resistance.
I may be wrong, but the L-7 tweeters you have are a part of component speakers, which do not connect in parallel to the h/u but are supposed to run through a bandpass filter (basically two wires into the filter, then two wires to the speaker and two separate wires to the tweeter to separate the high freqs from the low freqs.
Adding a sub-amp into the equation will not have bad effects on your sound but it won't be good either unless you can control the bass from the h/u.
The BEST way to do this would be to buy a good 2-channel amp for your subs and a 4-channel amp for your speakers, a band pass filter to separate the frequency ranges going into each, and an audio capacitor if you want loud sound without draining your battery. But you have lots of options depending on your preference and budget.
Most car speakers and amps run at 4 ohms - There are no difference between the U.S. and Asia, so I doubt there is an EU difference.
Your ohm calculations when putting speakers in parallel are correct. However, you will need to make sure that both the speakers and headunit will be stable when operating at that resistance.
I may be wrong, but the L-7 tweeters you have are a part of component speakers, which do not connect in parallel to the h/u but are supposed to run through a bandpass filter (basically two wires into the filter, then two wires to the speaker and two separate wires to the tweeter to separate the high freqs from the low freqs.
Adding a sub-amp into the equation will not have bad effects on your sound but it won't be good either unless you can control the bass from the h/u.
The BEST way to do this would be to buy a good 2-channel amp for your subs and a 4-channel amp for your speakers, a band pass filter to separate the frequency ranges going into each, and an audio capacitor if you want loud sound without draining your battery. But you have lots of options depending on your preference and budget.
The following users liked this post:
DLH525i2007 (11-20-2021)
#3
Senior Members
Thread Starter
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the input.
I'm not looking retrofit the whole L7 system thats crazy amount of work/cash.
Just want to spice up the bass a bit and not spend a fortune or make a mess of the boot, I like things to look as OEM as possible.
I am happy enough with the rest of the speakers as they are (nice improvement over factory speakers, along with the addition of tweeters, even them being driven from HU)
The HU is 6.5" MASK and it has control for fader/treble/bass.
I'm not looking retrofit the whole L7 system thats crazy amount of work/cash.
Just want to spice up the bass a bit and not spend a fortune or make a mess of the boot, I like things to look as OEM as possible.
I am happy enough with the rest of the speakers as they are (nice improvement over factory speakers, along with the addition of tweeters, even them being driven from HU)
The HU is 6.5" MASK and it has control for fader/treble/bass.
The following users liked this post:
DLH525i2007 (11-20-2021)
#4
New Members
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Brighton UK
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: E60 (LCI) M sport, Lane departure, Bluetooth, Xenons.
Model Year: 2008
Engine: M57
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you trying to retrofit an L-7 sound system or are you just looking to improve your current setup?
Most car speakers and amps run at 4 ohms - There are no difference between the U.S. and Asia, so I doubt there is an EU difference.
Your ohm calculations when putting speakers in parallel are correct. However, you will need to make sure that both the speakers and head unit will be stable when operating at that resistance.
I may be wrong, but the L-7 tweeters you have are a part of component speakers, which do not connect in parallel to the h/u but are supposed to run through a bandpass filter (basically two wires into the filter, then two wires to the speaker and two separate wires to the tweeter to separate the high freqs from the low freqs.
Adding a sub-amp into the equation will not have bad effects on your sound but it won't be good either unless you can control the bass from the h/u.
The BEST way to do this would be to buy a good 2-channel amp for your subs and a 4-channel amp for your speakers, a band pass filter to separate the frequency ranges going into each, and an audio capacitor if you want loud sound without draining your battery. But you have lots of options depending on your preference and budget.
Most car speakers and amps run at 4 ohms - There are no difference between the U.S. and Asia, so I doubt there is an EU difference.
Your ohm calculations when putting speakers in parallel are correct. However, you will need to make sure that both the speakers and head unit will be stable when operating at that resistance.
I may be wrong, but the L-7 tweeters you have are a part of component speakers, which do not connect in parallel to the h/u but are supposed to run through a bandpass filter (basically two wires into the filter, then two wires to the speaker and two separate wires to the tweeter to separate the high freqs from the low freqs.
Adding a sub-amp into the equation will not have bad effects on your sound but it won't be good either unless you can control the bass from the h/u.
The BEST way to do this would be to buy a good 2-channel amp for your subs and a 4-channel amp for your speakers, a band pass filter to separate the frequency ranges going into each, and an audio capacitor if you want loud sound without draining your battery. But you have lots of options depending on your preference and budget.
Last edited by Pete7811; 03-24-2017 at 10:49 AM. Reason: Update
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Awest91
E60 Discussion
20
09-17-2022 11:05 PM
incoherent
E60, E61 Parts, Accessories and Mods
9
04-15-2015 04:48 PM
bruce_miranda
Private Member Classifieds
0
04-15-2015 03:25 AM