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E60 speaker impedance

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Old 05-17-2012, 02:33 AM
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Trying to get my head around what the impedance is in the EU standard audio (6 speakers).
So there are 4 mid-range speakers (front doors and rear shelf) and 2 underseat subs all @ 4 ohms.

1. The front door speakers are wired in parallel with the under seat subs, so per channel the impedance is 4/2 = 2 ohms per channel and the rear shelf speakers are 4 ohms per channel?
Is that about right?

2. Now I went and added L7 tweeters to the front/rear (now having 10 speakers, same as HIFI audio) but not sure if they are also connected in parallel or in series with the mid-ranges? Does anyone know for sure? Master Bruce?

3. If they are wired in parallel then after the addition of the tweeters, the impedance on the front becomes 4/3 = 1.333 ohms per channel and in the rear is 4/2 = 2 ohms per channel right? (would make sense since the subs are pretty quiet now)

4. I want to add an amp and Earthquake SWS-8 for the underseats subs, therefore removing the load of the subs completely from the head unit and I'm trying to anticipate if this will have a detrimental effect on the sound. Since the inputs will come from the factory sub cable, will the head unit still think it has the subs attached?
Old 05-17-2012, 07:20 AM
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Are you trying to retrofit an L-7 sound system or are you just looking to improve your current setup?

Most car speakers and amps run at 4 ohms - There are no difference between the U.S. and Asia, so I doubt there is an EU difference.

Your ohm calculations when putting speakers in parallel are correct. However, you will need to make sure that both the speakers and headunit will be stable when operating at that resistance.

I may be wrong, but the L-7 tweeters you have are a part of component speakers, which do not connect in parallel to the h/u but are supposed to run through a bandpass filter (basically two wires into the filter, then two wires to the speaker and two separate wires to the tweeter to separate the high freqs from the low freqs.

Adding a sub-amp into the equation will not have bad effects on your sound but it won't be good either unless you can control the bass from the h/u.

The BEST way to do this would be to buy a good 2-channel amp for your subs and a 4-channel amp for your speakers, a band pass filter to separate the frequency ranges going into each, and an audio capacitor if you want loud sound without draining your battery. But you have lots of options depending on your preference and budget.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:29 PM
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Thanks for the input.
I'm not looking retrofit the whole L7 system thats crazy amount of work/cash.
Just want to spice up the bass a bit and not spend a fortune or make a mess of the boot, I like things to look as OEM as possible.
I am happy enough with the rest of the speakers as they are (nice improvement over factory speakers, along with the addition of tweeters, even them being driven from HU)
The HU is 6.5" MASK and it has control for fader/treble/bass.
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Old 03-24-2017, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by pukka
Are you trying to retrofit an L-7 sound system or are you just looking to improve your current setup?

Most car speakers and amps run at 4 ohms - There are no difference between the U.S. and Asia, so I doubt there is an EU difference.

Your ohm calculations when putting speakers in parallel are correct. However, you will need to make sure that both the speakers and head unit will be stable when operating at that resistance.

I may be wrong, but the L-7 tweeters you have are a part of component speakers, which do not connect in parallel to the h/u but are supposed to run through a bandpass filter (basically two wires into the filter, then two wires to the speaker and two separate wires to the tweeter to separate the high freqs from the low freqs.

Adding a sub-amp into the equation will not have bad effects on your sound but it won't be good either unless you can control the bass from the h/u.

The BEST way to do this would be to buy a good 2-channel amp for your subs and a 4-channel amp for your speakers, a band pass filter to separate the frequency ranges going into each, and an audio capacitor if you want loud sound without draining your battery. But you have lots of options depending on your preference and budget.
How about installing tweeters in doors and replacing the 6.5" 4 ohm subs with 8" 2 ohm subwoofers?! This would that give us a bit more treble and bass sound and not hurt our wallet - correct me if I am wrong. Or how about running a 5 or 6 channel amp? It's less hassle, less wires and overall same effect...the 6 channel amps already have filters for high / low pass....thinking the 6 channel amp would then have 1 free output that could be used for a dashboard speaker (it is not accompanied with a tweeter so the impedance will be 4 ohms straight up), some say that the beeps and gongs will then become amplified as well to a unpleasant level if the HU is not coded as well...anyone can comment on my idea of swapping subwoofers for the bigger ones with lower impedance would give a noticeable difference? I feel like after I installed tweeters the base sound got lost...so I am trying to retrieve it for a little cash as possible. Thanks a million for your feedbacks.

Last edited by Pete7811; 03-24-2017 at 10:49 AM. Reason: Update
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