Amplifier line-in signal converter hi to lo
#1
Senior Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 467
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: E61 535d carbon black m-kit panoramaroof with beige nasca interior and wood trim. 172m rims. DimSport Race, SB, SAT
Finished my install of SWS-8 subs and an Earthquake TNT T1000W amp today, which Earthquake assured me could handle 8v hi-power input if the gain is set to 0 (the manual states max 5v). Problem is, I can't hear the subs at all with gain set to zero. only when it is dialled up about two-thirds does it finally sound like I have subwoofers in the car; before that the measly little 4" midranges deal with all the bass and you know that doesn't sound good! So no doubt I need to have it dialled up if this sub/amp duo install is to make any sense at all, but I'm worried I'll blow the amp any minute now, even if I rarely turn up the volume and only use the stereo in a common everyday manner. So I'm thinking to splash for a signal converter to bring the signal down to a lower voltage that will allow me to dial up the gain. My thinking here is that the sound will remain as high, or close to, but it will remove the danger to the amp. If that is correct I'd love to hear suggestions for a good converter and any other constructive comments you might have.
#2
Contributors
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: London, UK
Posts: 4,719
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
Why don't you go for a good quality LOC and then plug that into the Amp Lo-Input. No fear of blowing the amp at all. Otherwise you will need to buy an adjustable LOC and continue to plug that into your Hi-Input on the Amp.
Another thing to do is put a CD that plays a bass track continuously and take some measurements to see what actual voltage you are putting into the amp. It may be that at normal sensible levels the voltage never reaches the danger mark for the amp.
Another thing to do is put a CD that plays a bass track continuously and take some measurements to see what actual voltage you are putting into the amp. It may be that at normal sensible levels the voltage never reaches the danger mark for the amp.
#3
Senior Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 467
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: E61 535d carbon black m-kit panoramaroof with beige nasca interior and wood trim. 172m rims. DimSport Race, SB, SAT
Why don't you go for a good quality LOC and then plug that into the Amp Lo-Input. No fear of blowing the amp at all. Otherwise you will need to buy an adjustable LOC and continue to plug that into your Hi-Input on the Amp.
Another thing to do is put a CD that plays a bass track continuously and take some measurements to see what actual voltage you are putting into the amp. It may be that at normal sensible levels the voltage never reaches the danger mark for the amp.
Another thing to do is put a CD that plays a bass track continuously and take some measurements to see what actual voltage you are putting into the amp. It may be that at normal sensible levels the voltage never reaches the danger mark for the amp.
The only LOC I've found is 35 watt. There are adjustment screws on it. It connects direct to the speaker wires with no seperate power connection and cost 30 euro in Germany (at Saturn). Not sure if that is good quality, but it was the best I could offhand get. As far as I have been able to trace on the internet, the professional base stereo has an output of 4x25 watt so I suppose a 35watt LOC is adequate?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post