adding an amp and sub to standard e60 system
#1
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hello everyone hope you can tell me how the hell to add a aftermarket amp and a sub.
i have a hifonics hawk amp
spec
2 Channel Class A/B Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
50 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms
90 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 ohms
180 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms Bridged
12 dB High / Low Pass Filter 10 - 5300 Hz
Variable Cross-Shift Q: 0.3 - 1.0
Input Mono / Stereo Switch
Line Out Selector Switch
Ultra-Fi MOSFETs
EVXP (Exponential vari-power supply)
SPC - Simpatico Coil Design
HSMD - Hifonics Surface Mount Design
Versa Cross 2 Way Variable Crossover
PWM MOSFET Power Supply
Line Output for Amplifier Daisy Chaining
Crossover Variable Gap Adjustment
Adjustable Input Control: 0.2V - 6V
Dimensions: 5.5" W x 2.05" H x 7.75"L
1-year SonicElectronix.com warranty
Amplifier Specifications
Number of Channels 2
RMS Power (4 ohms) 50 watts x 2 channels
RMS Power (2 ohms) 90 watts x 2 channels
RMS Power (1 ohm) Not Stable
Bridged RMS Power 180 watts x 1 channel
Total RMS Power Output 180 watts
Peak Power Output 360 watts approx.
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 ohms
THD at Rated RMS Power 0.05%
Speaker Level Inputs No
Preamp Outputs 1 pair
Built-in Crossover N/A
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 95 dB
Bass Boost N/A
Fan Cooled No
Fuse Rating 20A
i take it i should run amp at 2 oams 2 channel to match the e60?
how do i wire it to the sub?
where do i get the signal from? all the internet hits i get talk about factory amp mine dont have one so how do i tap in to the rear speakers?
i removed the rear trunk pannels mhy car has nothing i can see the sponge stuff around the rear speakers but have no clue what wires i need to tap into
i have a hifonics hawk amp
spec
2 Channel Class A/B Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
50 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms
90 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 ohms
180 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 ohms Bridged
12 dB High / Low Pass Filter 10 - 5300 Hz
Variable Cross-Shift Q: 0.3 - 1.0
Input Mono / Stereo Switch
Line Out Selector Switch
Ultra-Fi MOSFETs
EVXP (Exponential vari-power supply)
SPC - Simpatico Coil Design
HSMD - Hifonics Surface Mount Design
Versa Cross 2 Way Variable Crossover
PWM MOSFET Power Supply
Line Output for Amplifier Daisy Chaining
Crossover Variable Gap Adjustment
Adjustable Input Control: 0.2V - 6V
Dimensions: 5.5" W x 2.05" H x 7.75"L
1-year SonicElectronix.com warranty
Amplifier Specifications
Number of Channels 2
RMS Power (4 ohms) 50 watts x 2 channels
RMS Power (2 ohms) 90 watts x 2 channels
RMS Power (1 ohm) Not Stable
Bridged RMS Power 180 watts x 1 channel
Total RMS Power Output 180 watts
Peak Power Output 360 watts approx.
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 ohms
THD at Rated RMS Power 0.05%
Speaker Level Inputs No
Preamp Outputs 1 pair
Built-in Crossover N/A
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 95 dB
Bass Boost N/A
Fan Cooled No
Fuse Rating 20A
i take it i should run amp at 2 oams 2 channel to match the e60?
how do i wire it to the sub?
where do i get the signal from? all the internet hits i get talk about factory amp mine dont have one so how do i tap in to the rear speakers?
i removed the rear trunk pannels mhy car has nothing i can see the sponge stuff around the rear speakers but have no clue what wires i need to tap into
![Frown](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/sad.gif)
#2
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My Ride: 2006 530i mystic blue
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what are you trying to do. run an amplifier to the underseat subwooferS? or to your rear speakers? or to a subwoofer your putting in the trunk?
my car head a oem amp for the underseat subs in the trunk on the left side under the carpet panel on the wheel well. what my installer did for my car to amplify these was bypass the oem amp and run the wires coming off the subs directly to the amplifier. on my car the front and rear channels were spliced into from behind the stock radio. behind the oem radio panel is more of a old school typa stereo. thats what my installer said. and the front and rear channels were run off of that to a jl audio clean sweep. from that right to the amps
my car head a oem amp for the underseat subs in the trunk on the left side under the carpet panel on the wheel well. what my installer did for my car to amplify these was bypass the oem amp and run the wires coming off the subs directly to the amplifier. on my car the front and rear channels were spliced into from behind the stock radio. behind the oem radio panel is more of a old school typa stereo. thats what my installer said. and the front and rear channels were run off of that to a jl audio clean sweep. from that right to the amps
#3
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My Ride: 2006 530i mystic blue
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i orignally had the 2 10s(1200watts rms) in a sealed box facing back with it all paneled off to look nice and make the trunk look nice. no bass got into the car. we cut holes in the rear deck and cut out the arm rest. got better but still not what 1200 watts should sound like. i flipped box facing thru the armrest towards the driver. got even louder. not really bassier just louder. played with gains and crossovers and it just never got much better. i bought a prefab ported box( which is to small for my subs)(my subs call for 2.0 cubic feet each inna ported box, this box only gives them .9 cubes each) put the box in facing backwards and wow. huge diffrence in bass. mainly becasue the box was so small the arm rest hole wasnt restricted at all like it orgainlly was with the sealed box. im content now but not fully ecause i know it can sound better with the proper airspace for the subs. so when i get money i want to get 2 sepreat ported boxes made to spec, and leave a 6 inch gap between the boxes so the bass waves can free flow thru the boxes into the armrest hole. if the boxes were together it would again restrict the arm rest hole and i wouldnt get all the bass i want. the way it is now it shakes the mirro pretty good and hits good. it can still be better tho. this car is a pain in the fucking ASS. heres a few pics. yes the amps and box are just chilin and its temporary now until i get the new boxes made then i can make it look pretty
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i am trying to add a aftermarket amp and subwoofer in the trunk
i have no factory fitted amp and no subs under the seats i have standard business system not hifi or l7.
the only option i think there is to tap a feed from the rear speakers to go to the amp
behing the rear boot pannels in mhy car is nothing at all not even a tcu? where is my tcu?
left side
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
right side
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
i have no factory fitted amp and no subs under the seats i have standard business system not hifi or l7.
the only option i think there is to tap a feed from the rear speakers to go to the amp
behing the rear boot pannels in mhy car is nothing at all not even a tcu? where is my tcu?
left side
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
right side
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
#5
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i orignally had the 2 10s(1200watts rms) in a sealed box facing back with it all paneled off to look nice and make the trunk look nice. no bass got into the car. we cut holes in the rear deck and cut out the arm rest. got better but still not what 1200 watts should sound like. i flipped box facing thru the armrest towards the driver. got even louder. not really bassier just louder. played with gains and crossovers and it just never got much better. i bought a prefab ported box( which is to small for my subs)(my subs call for 2.0 cubic feet each inna ported box, this box only gives them .9 cubes each) put the box in facing backwards and wow. huge diffrence in bass. mainly becasue the box was so small the arm rest hole wasnt restricted at all like it orgainlly was with the sealed box. im content now but not fully ecause i know it can sound better with the proper airspace for the subs. so when i get money i want to get 2 sepreat ported boxes made to spec, and leave a 6 inch gap between the boxes so the bass waves can free flow thru the boxes into the armrest hole. if the boxes were together it would again restrict the arm rest hole and i wouldnt get all the bass i want. the way it is now it shakes the mirro pretty good and hits good. it can still be better tho. this car is a pain in the fucking ASS. heres a few pics. yes the amps and box are just chilin and its temporary now until i get the new boxes made then i can make it look pretty
thanks for the advise about getting the base through i have thought about this as its been the same issue in prev bms however they have had folding rear seats this dosnt i have cut a hole in the rear seat hidden behing the arm rest other ppl have done this on here.
see your setup is more logical cause you have the factory amp and have tapped off that using the cleansweep thing and vola but i cant do this as i have no amp
![Frown](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/sad.gif)
i have a 4 channel hi to low level converter so can add another amp later on to power some speakers too but i just wanna get this first amp tapped in first
#6
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I think I have it now so I need to find a live ignition feed for the remote on off to the ano and tap the + and - left and right the the rear input cables for the line converter but the line converter wants ground and power as well. The sub is a crunch "fat boy"
Pls someone pipe in really wanna get this all hooked up i am papal anyone with answer some beer tokens
Pls someone pipe in really wanna get this all hooked up i am papal anyone with answer some beer tokens
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