dimeitry

Having the same issue now, ordered the e83 reinforced gear part and will be taking the actuator apart tomorrow hopefully and see exactly what broke. Is the e60 motor all metal inside or does it also have that plastic ring in it like the SUV's do? Is it usually the worm gear that wears out on e60's or is the plastic the culprit?
I will update when I fix it.

James39

There are no plastic gears in the e60 actuator - if you ordered the e83 part for your e60 it's not going to fit anywhere. The problem gear in the e60 actuator is found here: BMW Transfer Case Actuator Replacement Worm Gear XI Cars 4x4 Warning Alarm Light | eBay

leego321

Hi There, thanks to all for chiming in it really helped with replacing the transfer case actuator. I had the problem diagnosed in Sacramento at Lubo's Bavarian, and they said it was the actuator motor, or the gear but what's the difference if you are going in there change them both. Those guys are amazing, not to mention they have a museum in their lobby, but I wanted to do it myself and save money and start working on my own car. After investing in some basic tools, jack, jack stands, specialty sockets, etc. I began. Yes wrestling the exhaust down was tough, and then I changed the actuator but couldn't get the drain plug out to change my TC oil. You see, there is only about 1-2 inches between the drain plug and the auto trans pan, so I guess you make a special tool, have a narrow tool, or take off the trans pan? Taking off the trans pan and changing the pan/oil would have been fine, but I didn't have the sealing sleeve (had all other parts/oil) so I will have to do that process all over again. Oh well, I'll be a pro at it now and it'll go faster now. Once I changed the actuator the ABS/AWD/Brake lights came on initially and then I turned the steering wheel left and right and they went off. The initial drive impression is that my car is noticibly smoother, but it may be placebo. I thought I needed tires/alignement because I was getting more vibration than I remembered, but now it seems to be riding smoother. I was worried about having to have the actuator programmed but then I heard on forums, from mechanics, and from reviews on the actuator part not to worry about it. I guess if I had to give any advice it would be to talk with your parts dealer and make sure you have everything before ordering parts, and try to work during business hours so you can get any specialty tools you might need (sometimes the DIY tutorials can have a size off for a socket)

mp333

Looks like the guy on ebay may not be selling the worm gear any more.....

Any other sources?

Thanks

leego321

i wouldnt mess with rebuilding the actuator I bought a complete one from OEM bimmer parts for $350 and then that was a good experience. What if you replaced the worm gear and then the motor died? There was a guy I found on Craigslist who gave me the advice that I didn't need to program the actuator, maybe you can find him I think he rebuilds them. (Bay Area)