What does this mean?
#1
So, the car indicates that the oil level is approaching "MIN" on the iDrive. I add 1 QT - and the display does not change. I start/stop/drive the car. The display does not change. I add another .5 QT Nothing changes.
I am doing an oil change tomorrow morning so I am not currently concerned with overfilling since I won't really be driving the car before fully draining the oil.
Car is a 2006 530i, 37K miles.
Anyone else seen this behavior?
BTW the oil reset does not seem to be working on this car. I follow the procedures posted here and I get all the menus and the RESET? prompt... but when it flashes back after the ---, it still reads as time for an oil change.
I am beginning to think that there is a faulty sensor for the oil condition/level.
Thanks.
I am doing an oil change tomorrow morning so I am not currently concerned with overfilling since I won't really be driving the car before fully draining the oil.
Car is a 2006 530i, 37K miles.
Anyone else seen this behavior?
BTW the oil reset does not seem to be working on this car. I follow the procedures posted here and I get all the menus and the RESET? prompt... but when it flashes back after the ---, it still reads as time for an oil change.
I am beginning to think that there is a faulty sensor for the oil condition/level.
Thanks.
#2
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So, the car indicates that the oil level is approaching "MIN" on the iDrive. I add 1 QT - and the display does not change. I start/stop/drive the car. The display does not change. I add another .5 QT Nothing changes.
I am doing an oil change tomorrow morning so I am not currently concerned with overfilling since I won't really be driving the car before fully draining the oil. Car is a 2006 530i, 37K miles.
Anyone else seen this behavior?
BTW the oil reset does not seem to be working on this car. I follow the procedures posted here and I get all the menus and the RESET? prompt... but when it flashes back after the ---, it still reads as time for an oil change.
I am beginning to think that there is a faulty sensor for the oil condition/level.
Thanks.
I am doing an oil change tomorrow morning so I am not currently concerned with overfilling since I won't really be driving the car before fully draining the oil. Car is a 2006 530i, 37K miles.
Anyone else seen this behavior?
BTW the oil reset does not seem to be working on this car. I follow the procedures posted here and I get all the menus and the RESET? prompt... but when it flashes back after the ---, it still reads as time for an oil change.
I am beginning to think that there is a faulty sensor for the oil condition/level.
Thanks.
BTW, only 37K miles! I'd make a case for BMW picking up the tab on that one ... IMHO it's not acceptable for a minor but critical sensor failing at 4-5 years and 37K miles. I'd bitch if it was a KIA ... but then KIA covers that stuff for 100K miles
Maybe BMW should start sourcing parts from Korea
#4
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My Ride: 2006 525XI, Jet black on Dakota beige. Premium and winter packages. I consider myself a purist and intend to keep my car absolutely stock and shiny.
2008 328I Convertible, Sapphire black on beige interior. Premium package, NAV, iPod adapter.
Retired: 2002 325I, Titanium silver on black leather. Premium package. Absolutely stock and proud of it.
I vote for a bad sensor.
#6
LOL As far as I know, the Hyundai is beginning to replace a lot of the old standards when it comes to reliability... maybe the Koreans have got it right!
As far as the oil change, I already completed it this AM. (no change so far) So, I'm going to wait a day or two as dbae1978 suggested. If there is no Joy at that point. I'm down to haggling with the dealer over it. (wish me luck)
Thanks for all the replies.
As far as the oil change, I already completed it this AM. (no change so far) So, I'm going to wait a day or two as dbae1978 suggested. If there is no Joy at that point. I'm down to haggling with the dealer over it. (wish me luck)
Thanks for all the replies.
#7
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My Ride: 2008 535i 6MT
It takes some time for the quart to register as it has to drain to the bottom of the engine where the sensor pickup point is. In cold weather it may take longer since the oil is thicker. I have found the e-gauge is acurate.
#8
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My Ride: 2011 E92 335i M-Sport 6MT
I doubt it's a bad sensor. If you have an I-6 or V-10, there are two ways to do this...
1. If you reset the oil level (engine on and idling) using the BC button and see the "clock" winding in the center display, you have to WAIT till the reading appears. Do not drive off; the engine must stay idling. The oil level will take several minutes to register. That's for getting an approximate level WITHOUT driving off. If you try to drive off while performing this method, the winding clock will just stay there.
2. If you want an accurate level, forget the BC reset method and go on a drive for at least 10 miles, then recheck the level. That will give you a close-to-exact oil level reading.
On the other hand, if you have a V-8, you have the best method of them all besides 1 and 2 above ... the dipstick.
1. If you reset the oil level (engine on and idling) using the BC button and see the "clock" winding in the center display, you have to WAIT till the reading appears. Do not drive off; the engine must stay idling. The oil level will take several minutes to register. That's for getting an approximate level WITHOUT driving off. If you try to drive off while performing this method, the winding clock will just stay there.
2. If you want an accurate level, forget the BC reset method and go on a drive for at least 10 miles, then recheck the level. That will give you a close-to-exact oil level reading.
On the other hand, if you have a V-8, you have the best method of them all besides 1 and 2 above ... the dipstick.
#9
This problem has been solved.
I crawled under the car again this morning and removed the panel covering the oil pan area. Not a terribly difficult proposition except for the fact that there must be 20 screws holding that thing on! Anyway, I wanted to get a clear look at where the oil sensor actually seats in the oil pan (in case I was going to replace it.) What I found was rather interesting. Part of the wiring harness that comes down to the connector for the oil level sensor was frayed and almost broken in two. I am thinking this may have been the dirty work of some rodents in the vehicles past because I did not see how the wire could have been stretched or chaffed given the way it was routed. So, I unlatched the connector, bared the wires, spliced and soldered them cleanly back together (not fun in the limited amount of space available but still doable) reconnected it and it worked perfectly. I had to take it for about a 10 min drive before it reported the level... I guess it does make sense that the ECU would want the engine at operating temperature before it starts measuring the level.
So, in a way, it was related to the sensor - even thought it wasn't really a 'bad' sensor.
I won't complain - it was an easy enough fix and I know I probably saved $300+ by not taking it to the dealer for 'expert' work.
Thanks again for all the ideas and suggestions.
I crawled under the car again this morning and removed the panel covering the oil pan area. Not a terribly difficult proposition except for the fact that there must be 20 screws holding that thing on! Anyway, I wanted to get a clear look at where the oil sensor actually seats in the oil pan (in case I was going to replace it.) What I found was rather interesting. Part of the wiring harness that comes down to the connector for the oil level sensor was frayed and almost broken in two. I am thinking this may have been the dirty work of some rodents in the vehicles past because I did not see how the wire could have been stretched or chaffed given the way it was routed. So, I unlatched the connector, bared the wires, spliced and soldered them cleanly back together (not fun in the limited amount of space available but still doable) reconnected it and it worked perfectly. I had to take it for about a 10 min drive before it reported the level... I guess it does make sense that the ECU would want the engine at operating temperature before it starts measuring the level.
So, in a way, it was related to the sensor - even thought it wasn't really a 'bad' sensor.
I won't complain - it was an easy enough fix and I know I probably saved $300+ by not taking it to the dealer for 'expert' work.
Thanks again for all the ideas and suggestions.