E60I

Now that I got your attention, feel free to throw bricks or help.

From each ?cold start?, my car runs rough for about ten minutes. Once the engine warms up, it runs like a new car under all driving conditions. On each cold start, I noticed the speedometer stays steady. However, if I keep the radio off and put my ear closer to the dashboard; and really pay attention, I can tell that the car engine is not running smooth (very mild vibration). Most often, the SES pops up as soon as the speedometer needle drops down to 600 RPM; only from each cold start!

For almost two months, I have been getting the same code, stating cylinder 4 has a misfire. It did not bother me because the car continues to run very smooth about 10 minutes later (from each initial cold start)

A couple weeks ago, a different Smog Test Station abused the heck out of my car because he knew I failed the test prior to bringing my car to him. Yet, I passed with flying color! I think it was because I cleared the code and drove on the freeway for 60 miles prior to bringing the car to him for the smog test.

All and all, I have six new spark plugs and two additional new ignition coils installed recently. My recent cleaning of the MAF sensor and switching the coils around have not resolved the same annoying message; cylinder 4 misfires.

In conclusion, I am convinced fuel injector 4 is leaking and flooded something while the car is off and parked. Hence, as soon as the car is warmed up and burned of that excess fuel, it continues to run smooth like silk.

What do you guys think? Is it the fuel injector, DISA or dirty/collapsing lifter(s)?

Please feel free to chime in.

And thank you for taking the time to check out my beautiful lady.

pukka

Why don't you try posting the car model and year - then someone may be able to help you.

E60I

It's 36-24-36

Oh, I meant 2006 530i (N52 Engine) with 70,400 miles; Steptronic Transmission.

Thanks!

l1tech

It's possible that it is a fuel injector. Here is what I do when I suspect a leaking fuel injector. Run the engine for about 10 minutes and then shut it off and let it sit for however long you need to to reproduce the symptons. Remove all the spark plugs and then smell the cylinders. If there is an injector that is leaking fuel you will definetely smell a very strong fuel smell when compared to the other cylinders on the affected cylinder. Usually you will also have a spark plug that is a darker color than the other plugs on the affected cylinder also.

E60I

Thanks for the suggestion. A couple weeks ago, I paid $150 to a shop to torque my spark plugs and interchange the ignition coils that I already replaced ; just to find out that it did not fix the problem. Then I paid another $150 for a useless diagnostic package from EU Auto Haus.

It's so hard to find a trustworthy mechanic!

E60I

I took my car to the BMW dealer and they said ignition coil #4 and spark plug #4 are bad; and they need to be replaced. I told them they were replaced less than three weeks ago. Hence, he went to talk to the service technician; got back to me and said the seal around spark plug cylinder #4 may have a small oil leak. A $225 cylinder leak test is recommended. Hence, this is the only reason why I hate to take my car to a mechanic without being able to watch them work on it!

Is it common for a 2006 530i to have this problem? I had my head cover gasket replaced by the BMW dealer about a year ago for a leak due to two of the bolts being broken. And now this??? I paid $60,000 for this car when it had only 5 miles it! I hate to imagine what this car would look like if I don't change the oil every 7,000 miles and drive it like my 1989 Bandit II (my first new car in high school ). Good Old, Glory Days...

Wow, 325 views in just a few days and no help?! :thumbsdown: I think I can double my exposure if I change the title to something like " Naked and Lonely Lady" .

pukka

^^^I never heard of a "seal around a spark plug". Under no circumstances should oil exist in either the spark plug location or the cylinder itself. The plug itself should come with a washer and all you do is screw it on with a socket to the right torque setting.

A cylinder leak test checks for compression loss. Now that I think about it you have to plug a pressure guage into the spark plug hole to do the test in the first place. Excessive compression loss would suggest far more serious and expensive problems such as bad valves/seals or piston rings.

You said you already replaced the plugs and 2 coil packs but the problem still remains with cylinder #4 (I assume this cylinder got a new coil pack).....if you think you may have a bad injector then either make the dealer check it or simply swap with another one in your car and see if the error code jumps with it. Otherwise, I'd start paying closer attention to the wire/connector that provides the electricity to that suspect cylinder.


FYI - I had a similar problem with my 535i and IIRC I did end up getting an injector replaced. FWIW I also think the gasoline ethanol mixture in pump gas may have something to do with it too.

E60I

Pukka,

I "think" the Service Advisor said the valve seal (or something like that inside the spark plug cylinder) for cylinder #4 might be leaking because he says he sees oil around the thread of the spark plug. He thinks the residue (or build up) of the small leak made it difficult for cylinder #4 to fire up. Once the residue is completely burnt after the engine warmed up, my car would run smooth like normal again. I told him his theory can also be applied to a leaking fuel injector, but he suggested that we do the cylinder leak test first.

I don't mind spending money to get what needs to be fixed. My problem is, I am so tired of getting riped off. Where is the extended warranty when you need it most. lol

I think this is what he was referring to:

pukka

The post under the first You Tube link that explains the test for bad valve seals is spot on.

I've owned a few cars over the years that had this condition but none of them had the rough idle.

A smooth idle requires the proper combination of 3 things - fuel, air, and spark. If the problem only occurs on startup then the more immediate concern should be testing the fuel injector. A valve job on your 5er is going to cost you.