Warped Rotors...again...at only 4500 miles!
#31
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Originally Posted by DrLev99' post='814813' date='Mar 12 2009, 01:10 PM
Rally for Pitt? I went to PSU!
And the pads and rotors are all OEM. Yeah...they use impact wrenches at my place.![Wassat](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/wassat.gif)
And the pads and rotors are all OEM. Yeah...they use impact wrenches at my place.
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#32
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Most premature brake vibration issues are caused by pad deposits on the disc. This happens when you hold the car on the foot brake when the discs are hot. My partners car had new discs on 4000 miles ago and has developed a brake vibration, so I had the wheels balanced and made sure the wheel to hub face was clean and then torqued up the wheel studs and the brake vibration has gone. Your discs will probably be ok, only way to check is to get the garage to check for run out with a dti.
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Originally Posted by C's Bimmer' post='814650' date='Mar 12 2009, 10:16 AM
Time for a new car, Dave. Seriously.
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#34
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Originally Posted by 530ISPORT' post='814971' date='Mar 12 2009, 03:17 PM
ill take it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! for a really good price.. you knoe warped rotors are really bad.. so a 40% less you paid should about cover it ![Big Grin](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/biggrin.gif)
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Originally Posted by DrLev99' post='815317' date='Mar 12 2009, 07:09 PM
It's yours, Joe....just take over my lease. My OEM's don't vibrate, and I'll have the rotors replaced...good as new! And cheap!
I am due for a new one anyway. ![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/rolleyes.gif)
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#36
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Originally Posted by DrLev99' post='814776' date='Mar 12 2009, 09:31 AM
First of all, to the last poster, my dealer hasn't told me anything....you can tell when your rotors are warped when the brake pedal starts to pulsate along with the steering wheel upon application of the brakes.
That's actually not how you can tell you have warped rotors.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Myth # 1 ? BRAKE JUDDER AND VIBRATION IS CAUSED BY DISCS THAT HAVE BEEN WARPED FROM EXCESSIVE HEAT.
The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.
When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analyses and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.
With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s ? one of the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc. I have seen lots of cracked discs:
![](http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/img/warped_1.jpg)
discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats:
![](http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/img/warped_2.gif)
a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes:
![](http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/img/warped_3.jpg)
and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not:
![](http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/img/warped_4.jpg)
In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.
The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.
When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analyses and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.
With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s ? one of the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc. I have seen lots of cracked discs:
![](http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/img/warped_1.jpg)
discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats:
![](http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/img/warped_2.gif)
a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes:
![](http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/img/warped_3.jpg)
and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not:
![](http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/img/warped_4.jpg)
In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.
#37
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Originally Posted by NobleForums' post='815342' date='Mar 12 2009, 10:51 PM
That's actually not how you can tell you have warped rotors.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
All I know is that something ain't right...and if by changing the rotors it fixes the problem, I am fine with that.
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#38
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Originally Posted by DrLev99' post='815448' date='Mar 12 2009, 11:17 PM
Thanks for that info. Interesting read.....I guess "warping" can be a subjective term when referring to the problems experienced from what was described, but I've done some hard bedding in of my pads the past few days, as recommended by zeckhausen, to rid the rotors of any pad material...and I am still vibrating in the steering wheel and pedal, even with nice clean rotors...and relatively new ones at that.
All I know is that something ain't right...and if by changing the rotors it fixes the problem, I am fine with that.![Cool](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
All I know is that something ain't right...and if by changing the rotors it fixes the problem, I am fine with that.
![Cool](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
Long term, it may be worthwhile to check the flatness of the hub and wheel, as well as make sure the bolts are torqued evenly. That may help keep problems from cropping up.
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Originally Posted by NobleForums' post='815461' date='Mar 13 2009, 03:14 AM
Long term, it may be worthwhile to check the flatness of the hub and wheel, as well as make sure the bolts are torqued evenly. That may help keep problems from cropping up.
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#40
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Originally Posted by DrLev99' post='814776' date='Mar 12 2009, 12:31 PM
And no, I don't wash the car after the rotors have been hot. Who knows. Thanks for all of the suggestions, though. ![Cool](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
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