Stripped Strut Bar Hole (Bolt)
#1
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Stripped Strut Bar Hole (Bolt)
Was reinstalling strut bar and like a goofball I didn't properly hand tighten the bolt before tightening it with the wrench. So I managed to strip the hole where the bolt goes and now the bolt will not tighten, so now with a loose strut bar I get a clunk while hitting bumps or turning. Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this issue, maybe retap the hole? Never retapped before so a guide or explanation would be great thanks.
#3
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would a cheap tap and die set like this work?
Great Neck/40 pcs. metric tap and die set (DT40M) | Tap and Die Set | AutoZone.com
Great Neck/40 pcs. metric tap and die set (DT40M) | Tap and Die Set | AutoZone.com
#4
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My Ride: '06 530i, '07 C280 4matic, '98 ML320
That should do the job.
If there is a Harbor Freight store near you, they have very similar one for around $15.
40 Piece SAE Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set
SAE / Metric Tap and Die Set - 60 Piece, Alloy Steel
If there is a Harbor Freight store near you, they have very similar one for around $15.
40 Piece SAE Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set
SAE / Metric Tap and Die Set - 60 Piece, Alloy Steel
#5
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Was reinstalling strut bar and like a goofball I didn't properly hand tighten the bolt before tightening it with the wrench. So I managed to strip the hole where the bolt goes and now the bolt will not tighten, so now with a loose strut bar I get a clunk while hitting bumps or turning. Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this issue, maybe retap the hole? Never retapped before so a guide or explanation would be great thanks.
Part groups BMW 5' E60 Facelift, 535i (N54)
#6
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My Ride: 540i
Model Year: 2017
Was reinstalling strut bar and like a goofball I didn't properly hand tighten the bolt before tightening it with the wrench. So I managed to strip the hole where the bolt goes and now the bolt will not tighten, so now with a loose strut bar I get a clunk while hitting bumps or turning. Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this issue, maybe retap the hole? Never retapped before so a guide or explanation would be great thanks.
Or use a helicoil. I use them at work with much success.
Helicoil - Emhart Technologies Helicoil Distributor, Manufacturer, Agent, Helicoil Free Running, Helicoil Screw Lock, Helicoil Metric, Helicoil Screw Thread Inserts, USA
#7
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Thread Starter
That should do the job.
If there is a Harbor Freight store near you, they have very similar one for around $15.
40 Piece SAE Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set
SAE / Metric Tap and Die Set - 60 Piece, Alloy Steel
If there is a Harbor Freight store near you, they have very similar one for around $15.
40 Piece SAE Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set
SAE / Metric Tap and Die Set - 60 Piece, Alloy Steel
#8
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Thread Starter
Not sure exactly what part you are talking about. Can you go here and find it and post it?
Part groups BMW 5' E60 Facelift, 535i (N54)
Part groups BMW 5' E60 Facelift, 535i (N54)
#9
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Thread Starter
You can drill and tap to the next size larger. I think the original bolt is an 8mm.
Or use a helicoil. I use them at work with much success.
Helicoil - Emhart Technologies Helicoil Distributor, Manufacturer, Agent, Helicoil Free Running, Helicoil Screw Lock, Helicoil Metric, Helicoil Screw Thread Inserts, USA
Or use a helicoil. I use them at work with much success.
Helicoil - Emhart Technologies Helicoil Distributor, Manufacturer, Agent, Helicoil Free Running, Helicoil Screw Lock, Helicoil Metric, Helicoil Screw Thread Inserts, USA
#10
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Guide support/spring pad/attaching parts BMW 5' E60 Facelift, 535i (N54)
You aftermarket strut is something like this one:
http://www.modbargains.com/images/Pr...trut-Bar-3.jpg
The one you have uses only 2 of the three strut studs.
Are both of the studs stripped?
How badly is it stripped?
Is it just cross threaded for a few threads?
The nut listed as #2 which attaches the strut bar to the shock tower is an M8-8 Self-locking collar nut. It is one time use only.
Your other problem is that there is very little room to get a new die onto the stud to chase the existing threads or cut new threads.
Assuming you didn't completely strip out both of the studs, I would try this first:
(1) Get new M8-8 Self-locking collar nuts from BMW (#2 in the picture) -- they are one time use only.
(2) Use a die to chase (i.e. re-cut) the same M8 threads -- there are fine and course thread types, figure out the right one to use.
(3) Put on the new M8-8 locking nuts and torque them to 34 Nm (25 ft-lb).
(3a) If you are able to successfully torque them in (3), you are probably safe and done. I would check it after a week and month of driving by just putting the wrench on the bolt to make sure it hasn't loosened.
(3b) If they strip out when torquing in (3), IMO you need to replace the BMW part #1, which will be an ordeal.
(3c) You might get lucky and be able to cut an M7 thread on that stud. I fear the die won't go far enough down to cut decent threads and you''ll be back to (3b) anyway.
That's my 2 cents.