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Stereo question

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Old 01-29-2005, 07:28 PM
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Has anyone changed their stereo? If so, that would mean you have to give up that part of the i-drive function right?

How about just speakers or woofer? Is it do-able?
Old 01-29-2005, 07:54 PM
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Look into the Infinit BassLink powered subwoofer. I put one in my e39 and it really improved the bottom end which is really lacking in the standard stereo systems. My son liked it so much, we put one in his Ford Ranger. Around $200 on the web. Bavarian Auto Parts sells them for a premium, but may have a BMW connector for the e60 soon. If you do it yourself, the hard part will be finding a wiring diagram for the speaker connections, so maybe a pro install should be considered. A lot of stereo shops should be able to do it.
Old 01-29-2005, 09:16 PM
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There is a substantial risk to adding aftermarket audio to an E60, due to the iDrive.

Even minor voltage fluctuations can adversely affect computer gear... and with the iDrive being a critical component to the vehicle, you don't want to damage it.

I'm not saying it can't be done.... but if you are going to add amplifiers, subs, etc... just be careful, do your homework, and have a serious professional install it. Regardless, you will void your warranty on the audio section and possibly on the iDrive as well.



I have had several competition car audio systems in previous cars. I have NO intention of trying with my 545, however. Damaging the iDrive scares me.

I bought my BMW because I wanted a "driver's car." I have had to accept the Logic 7 as a consequence.
Old 01-30-2005, 06:06 AM
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You do not have to mess with the iDrive when upgrading the stereo. Just convert the high level speaker signal to low level and feed to new amplifier and the speakers. I have the converted low level signal fed into an Alpine processor before going into the amp. Now I have good sound stage and image on the dash.
Old 01-30-2005, 07:33 AM
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Thanks for the info. What do you mean by converting the high level signal to low level tho? If I get the signal processor, that should be enough before going into the amp right?
thanks
Jack
Old 01-30-2005, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by tategoi' date='Jan 30 2005, 10:06 AM
You do not have to mess with the iDrive when upgrading the stereo. Just convert the high level speaker signal to low level and feed to new amplifier and the speakers. I have the converted low level signal fed into an Alpine processor before going into the amp. Now I have good sound stage and image on the dash.
[snapback]84776[/snapback]
I'd really be interested in more specifics on your stereo install.

What did you replace? It looks like you replaced some factory speakers then amplified those new ones with in-line amps, one for your mids and hi's and one for your bass.

What amps and speakers did you use?

And more pics on the wiring, if you have them.

Thanks!
Old 01-30-2005, 02:04 PM
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I know you don't have to mess with the iDrive to install a stereo.


Here is the problem, however....


Installing amplifiers increases the current load placed on your car's electrical system. When you add high-power amps, then they must compete with other car electronics such as iDrive, headlights (xenon use lots of power), windshield wipers, climate control, etc....

The car was designed with a hefty alternator, to ensure headroom for the components.... but that alternator is not designed with aftermarket audio in mind.


In my older cars, where I had high power systems.... I took extra care to ensure that my car had enough power to run the gear. This meant upgrading my alternator, adding a deep-cycle battery, adding a 15 farad capacitor, using heavy gauge power cables, etc.....


Even with all of this, my system greatly exceeded the output of the upgraded alternator. The power amps alone could easily draw double what the alternator could supply. I had a 200 amp circuit breaker installed instead of fuses.

The consequence is that the voltage to the various vehicle components fluctuates during use of the stereo. Changing voltage is not good for computer gear like the iDrive. A slight drop or spike can cause problems.

So.... you are correct that you don't have to touch the iDrive to install a stereo. But you are not necessarily correct to say that installing a stereo will not affect the iDrive. There is a chance it will.... and that is why I will not attempt an audio install on my E60.

Furthermore, BMW will void your warranty in a heartbeat if you add audio components. They put a sticker on my windshield warning specifically against the addition of devices to the car due to increased power load affecting the car.
Old 01-31-2005, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by typer77' date='Jan 31 2005, 12:33 AM
Thanks for the info. What do you mean by converting the high level signal to low level tho? If I get the signal processor, that should be enough before going into the amp right?
thanks
Jack
[snapback]84797[/snapback]
High level are those that drive the loudspeakers. They have been amplified move the speaker cones. Low level are those that are fed into an amplifier, normally via the RCA cables. Those between a CD player and an amplifier are low level, while those between an amp and loudspeakers are high level.

Cables from the iDrive carry high level signals and feed directly into the speakers. You need to convert them into low level before feeding them into the amplifier. Imagine the iDrive is a CD player/tuner. A signal processor will not convert a high level to a low level signal.
Old 01-31-2005, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by acribb' date='Jan 31 2005, 12:54 AM
[quote name='tategoi' date='Jan 30 2005, 10:06 AM']You do not have to mess with the iDrive when upgrading the stereo. Just convert the high level speaker signal to low level and feed to new amplifier and the speakers. I have the converted low level signal fed into an Alpine processor before going into the amp. Now I have good sound stage and image on the dash.
[snapback]84776[/snapback]
I'd really be interested in more specifics on your stereo install.

What did you replace? It looks like you replaced some factory speakers then amplified those new ones with in-line amps, one for your mids and hi's and one for your bass.

What amps and speakers did you use?

And more pics on the wiring, if you have them.

Thanks!
[snapback]84802[/snapback]
[/quote]

The only thing that is original is the iDrive, I have replaced all the speakers, added 2 amplifiers (total 8 channels) and a digital signal processor. The amps are Diamond Audio and Lanzar, and the speakers/subs are a mixture of DLS and Diamond Audio.

I don't have any wiring diagram, but from what I understood from my installer, this is how it goes:

iDrive (original front speaker signal, L+R) -> high-to-low converter -> digital processor
Digital processor -> front L+R tweeter (>4.3kHz?)
-> front L+R mid-bass (45-6.5k Hz)
-> rear L+R coaxials (full range)
-> bass output L+R (<80Hz)

The digital processor does the cross-overs, time correction, and itself is an equalizer. It takes in stereo input but has 8 channel output as above.
Old 01-31-2005, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by subterFUSE' date='Jan 31 2005, 07:04 AM
I know you don't have to mess with the iDrive to install a stereo.


Here is the problem, however....


Installing amplifiers increases the current load placed on your car's electrical system.? When you add high-power amps, then they must compete with other car electronics such as iDrive, headlights (xenon use lots of power), windshield wipers, climate control, etc....

The car was designed with a hefty alternator, to ensure headroom for the components....? but that alternator is not designed with aftermarket audio in mind.


In my older cars, where I had high power systems....? I took extra care to ensure that my car had enough power to run the gear.? This meant upgrading my alternator, adding a deep-cycle battery, adding a 15 farad capacitor, using heavy gauge power cables, etc.....


Even with all of this, my system greatly exceeded the output of the upgraded alternator.? The power amps alone could easily draw double what the alternator could supply.? I had a 200 amp circuit breaker installed instead of fuses.

The consequence is that the voltage to the various vehicle components fluctuates during use of the stereo.? Changing voltage is not good for computer gear like the iDrive.? A slight drop or spike can cause problems.

So....? you are correct that you don't have to touch the iDrive to install a stereo.? But you are not necessarily correct to say that installing a stereo will not affect the iDrive.? There is a chance it will....? and that is why I will not attempt an audio install on my E60.

Furthermore, BMW will void your warranty in a heartbeat if you add audio components.? They put a sticker on my windshield warning specifically against the addition of devices to the car due to increased power load affecting the car.
[snapback]84918[/snapback]
I have a standard audio with only 6 speakers and no amp. BMW does not allow me to upgrade to Logic 7 once I have taken delivery of the car, does it? I know I run the risk of voiding the warranty. I have no other alternative. However, I don't think they can blame the stereo upgrade should one day my suspension fails.

I am not sure if I agree with you regarding the power drain. I think we need to calculate the total electricity consumption before we can conclude that the alternative is insufficient. To begin with, I have no Logic 7 (no amp). I have no HUD. I have no NAV. I have no heater. And I think the power consumption of the new amps should not be too much diffeerent from the options I mentioned. Well, so far I don't see any drop in the voltage meter after I upgraded the stereo. But I will bear your observation in mind and continue to monitor for any dip or spike in the voltage. I will keep you posted should there be any. thanks.


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