Thanks everyone for the help. I'm good for a rebuild. I found some kits will al the components for the front axle.

Short question : in here do i need to buy the whole 11 part or I can just change de 12 ? Well it will sure be better to change the whole part I guess. Where could I find all the torques for all the components of the front axle for a rebuild ?


Out of curiosity, is there some tricks to increase bushings' lifespan ? Like putting silicon grease ?

 

I don't see any diagram, but suspect you're asking about replacing the whole front compliance arm, or just the bushing and ball joint. You CAN replace the bushing, but it is only supposed to be done once, and to be honest, it's a pretty difficult job even with a 12 ton home press. I almost destroyed both the arm and the bushing, but managed to cobble together a remedial method to get the slightly off-kilter bushing straightened back up and pressed in correctly.

The only way to SHORTEN the lifespan of those bushings is to torque down the bolts with the wheels dangling. The way to get the FULL lifespan is to raise the hub to ride height, THEN tighten them down. Other than that, they're gonna last as long as they last. Unsaid is that buying quality OEM-style bushings and components is the best way to get long life. No-name Chinese parts are only going to disappoint you, as will counterfeit parts (a whole lot more common than you might think - make sure you get the parts from a legitimate vendor).

 

The link was a diagram of the front axle from realoem.
In any case, I'm planning on changing all the parts. 2 controls arms, stabilizer bar and inner/outer tie rod (with the screws and so on) on each side.

The feeling is not worth a 5 series so I hope it will improve the ride. I'll keep you up to date.

 

I missed the link, but guessed correctly. ;-) I think your plan is a good one. Be sure and check those axle bearings closely when you're doing the job - if one is bad, it's a lot less work to do it while you're doing everything else!

 

You guessed it yes ahah
Just bought for 300€ worth of parts. Do you think buying a tool for the inner tie rod is a good idea or with a wrench (34mm) it will do ?

 

I honestly don't remember if the inner can be removed with just a socket or not. I do remember that I ended up using the cheap auto parts store remover I bought (I do have a nice "tube-style" tool, but find the cheap one easier to use,and perfectly adequate).


That's not an endorsement of that particular tool - it's just the first one that popped up on a quick search (looks OK and is certainly cheap enough).

 

Thanks for the help habbyguy !

I'll keep you up to date!

 

Hello guys

I was wondering something
On the picture below we can see a complete tie rod
There is a little ring that will be forced on the outer tie rod when screwing the nut.



To perform a wheel alignment, this ring has to be removed ? Is it reusable ? I'll get one with the kit but i was just wondering.

Also, can someone indicate me where I can find the torques for the front axle? Do i need to put med Loctite ?
Thanks
Matt

 

The thing that looks like a nut in the middle of the photo is the clamping nut and first untighten that.
Then, the ring thing to the right of the clamping nut in the photo just comes ooff. It may take a little banging to pop it off. It is reused. That is what the nut gets tightened against.
Then the tie rod end unscrews.

 

That ring is reusable as twh mentioned. It's there to "grip" the threads when the nut is run up hard against the ring, locking the adjustment in place.

BTW, it's easy to do a rough "drive to the alignment shop alignment" in your garage. Just measure from an obvious groove (straight groove, not angled groove) on one front tire to the same groove on the other, front and back of the tires (at the same height). Just adjust the tie rods until the two are essentially the same measurement, and you'll be very close to "right". Certainly close enough to not scrub 10,000 miles off the tires on the way to get the car aligned. ;-)