SOS Forum Mechanics
09-28-2011, 12:32 AM
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Hi Guys,
Over the last 18 months I have been having electrical issues with my car.
I changed the battery but apparently it wasn't powerful enough to run my car and it seems that the alternator has been running constantly trying to keep the car running has 'burnt out.'
I have now put a correct battery and have received quotes for a new alternator
I have attached the quotes below the diagnostic report from my mechanic.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
ALTERNATOR QUOTES!!!!!
Over the last 18 months I have been having electrical issues with my car.
I changed the battery but apparently it wasn't powerful enough to run my car and it seems that the alternator has been running constantly trying to keep the car running has 'burnt out.'
I have now put a correct battery and have received quotes for a new alternator
I have attached the quotes below the diagnostic report from my mechanic.Any suggestions would be appreciated.
ALTERNATOR QUOTES!!!!!
Mr Thomas Selby, here is what i have received so far,
direct from BMW in Germany - modified alternator (not Standard) this is what the factory came up with to solve this problem that the E60 / E61 cars suffer from = 1150.00 + vat or you can have the standard one for = 1127.00 +vat
German + Swedish car company = 1035.00 +vat this is for a standard replacement (what you already have)
the BOSCH centre = 977.50 +vat again this is for a standard replacement.
Car Electric Center = 1092.50 +vat standard replacement
jennings Electrical parts wholesalers = 1023.50 +vat standard replacement.
i have still not received answers from at least another two but this is because they cannot supply directly so the cost for them is also high. you must also note that once electrical parts are supplied there are no returns, Guarantee varies from company to company but its usually 3 months on electrical components. Regards Steve.
direct from BMW in Germany - modified alternator (not Standard) this is what the factory came up with to solve this problem that the E60 / E61 cars suffer from = 1150.00 + vat or you can have the standard one for = 1127.00 +vat
German + Swedish car company = 1035.00 +vat this is for a standard replacement (what you already have)
the BOSCH centre = 977.50 +vat again this is for a standard replacement.
Car Electric Center = 1092.50 +vat standard replacement
jennings Electrical parts wholesalers = 1023.50 +vat standard replacement.
i have still not received answers from at least another two but this is because they cannot supply directly so the cost for them is also high. you must also note that once electrical parts are supplied there are no returns, Guarantee varies from company to company but its usually 3 months on electrical components. Regards Steve.
09-28-2011, 02:47 AM
#2
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E60 suffer from alternator problems? Sorry never heard of that. Also, I never heard of a mechanic writing a 2 page report about the car. I strongly suggest you see another mechanic. All of these "Faults" are normal when replacing a battery they will disappear shortly after. From what I read this mechanic is full of shit. Sorry. Water cooling the alternator? Unauthorized entries? Car does not know who moves a plug and who doesn't. LOL. Seriously. I've been working on these cars for over a decade. And what special tools is he talking about? I have all the factory tools. What special tool was giving those codes? And since I am good with reading people and advanced in language skills I can tell that he's selling you a load. I wish I could explain further but it's not that easy. I notice you have a lot of mods on your car....a mechanic looks for these things right away and then gives you a diagnoses. What does that tell you? If you can afford these mods (he probably thinks they're all expensive too) then you can afford to baby the car according to his word. You can take my word for it. Or don't. Your choice. Good luck.
09-28-2011, 02:55 AM
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E60 suffer from alternator problems? Sorry never heard of that. Also, I never heard of a mechanic writing a 2 page report about the car. I strongly suggest you see another mechanic. All of these "Faults" are normal when replacing a battery they will disappear shortly after. From what I read this mechanic is full of shit. Sorry. Water cooling the alternator? Unauthorized entries? Car does not know who moves a plug and who doesn't. LOL. Seriously. I've been working on these cars for over a decade. And what special tools is he talking about? I have all the factory tools. What special tool was giving those codes? And since I am good with reading people and advanced in language skills I can tell that he's selling you a load. I wish I could explain further but it's not that easy. I notice you have a lot of mods on your car....a mechanic looks for these things right away and then gives you a diagnoses. What does that tell you? If you can afford these mods (he probably thinks they're all expensive too) then you can afford to baby the car according to his word. You can take my word for it. Or don't. Your choice. Good luck.
I have been to a few mechanics and as I am a British and living in Cyprus, most Cypriot mechanics will just say this is the problem and not explain it to you. He is half English/half Cypriot so I trusted him a bit more as we have a natural common language.
I understand where you are coming from though, regarding the mods that I have made.
So would you suggest not changing the alternator? And drive the car for a bit and see if the problems persist? I have a voltage reader attached to my cigarette lighter and it usually never goes above 14.0, usually it stays around 12, as far as I am aware it should be 14.4 or 14.6?
If it stays at 14.4 or 14.6 (whichever is the correct voltage) then I shouldn't need to change the alternator?
Once again I appreciate your reply.
09-28-2011, 10:29 AM
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First thing that needs to be done is TEST the ALTERNATOR. While the engine is running, the alternator output should be slightly above 14V. Anything less than 14V (or much higher), voltage regulator or the alternator itself may be bad.
Alternators can be rebuilt - usually replacement of brushes and bearings - for much less than the cost of new alternator. If that's not possible, you can buy a re-manufactured unit.
good luck.
Alternators can be rebuilt - usually replacement of brushes and bearings - for much less than the cost of new alternator. If that's not possible, you can buy a re-manufactured unit.
good luck.
09-28-2011, 09:56 PM
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First thing that needs to be done is TEST the ALTERNATOR. While the engine is running, the alternator output should be slightly above 14V. Anything less than 14V (or much higher), voltage regulator or the alternator itself may be bad.
Alternators can be rebuilt - usually replacement of brushes and bearings - for much less than the cost of new alternator. If that's not possible, you can buy a re-manufactured unit.
good luck.
Alternators can be rebuilt - usually replacement of brushes and bearings - for much less than the cost of new alternator. If that's not possible, you can buy a re-manufactured unit.
good luck.
10-03-2011, 10:42 PM
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10-03-2011, 11:43 PM
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BTW... All of those "faults" are secondary and are a function of the low voltage. It happens when any of the communication buses have contention; i.e. low/no voltage on the sensors.
As PCY says, check the alternator. A new alternator (most likely the regulator within the alternator) will cure it all.
As PCY says, check the alternator. A new alternator (most likely the regulator within the alternator) will cure it all.
10-04-2011, 01:38 AM
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BTW... All of those "faults" are secondary and are a function of the low voltage. It happens when any of the communication buses have contention; i.e. low/no voltage on the sensors.
As PCY says, check the alternator. A new alternator (most likely the regulator within the alternator) will cure it all.
As PCY says, check the alternator. A new alternator (most likely the regulator within the alternator) will cure it all.
10-04-2011, 01:53 AM
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