sparkyjonze

So I wasn't able to do the "noid" test yet, as that would involve taking everything apart on my model.

But what I found:

1. I was able to borrow a Foxwell NT/510. The 2E30 fuel injector code shows the voltage at 14.22 in fuel injector 1.

2. The scanner has a "shut off" fuel injector test. When I shut off injector 1, nothing seems to happen. When I shut off any of the other 5, the car shudders almost violently.

3. I have described this problem as intermittent. But when the code comes back and I listen to injector 1 with the stethescope, I hear no ticking. I hear ticking in the other 5 injectors.

This is a failed fuel injector 1 that I need to replace, isn't it?

banglenot

From what you describe, it's either the injector or the connector.

N52 is easy to work on. Pull the injector and test continuity with an ohmmeter. Should be about 12 ohms. If infinite, it's bad.

If it's not your daily driver, you can pull all six and send them to an injector reman company. They'll rebuild them, clean and flowtest them for you.

Or order a remanufactured injector from injector planet. Just bought 6 replacements there and am happy with them. No need for a new one at 140K miles.

sparkyjonze

Thanks for checking in. So even though I'm getting a reading of 14.22 volts using the code reader, it could still be the connector? I guess I just want to be sure that the injector itself that is the issue before I make decisions on how to move forward. You're saying I still can't be sure?

twh

I'd say your test of shutting off injectors is pretty definitive. The scanner telling you the injector is getting 14.22V isn't what you think it is. That voltage is not being measured at the injector connector - in order for that to happen, there would have to be some test wires in place to measure the voltage there and there are not. I'm guessing the 14.22V is just what the DME has decided to send the injector and that's what the scanner reports. Of course, the wiring harness or connector could have an issues, and that's where the noid test comes in. But, wires and connectors going bad isn't common. And, as banglenot mentions, the N52 is pretty easy when it comes to the injectors. I'd just replace that injector and see what you get.

sparkyjonze

OK. I'm ready to get things apart and put the ohmeter on it. I have the injectors on the way too. May take a few days to get it all going. Thanks!

militarydave

I would also highly recommend the "stethoscope" test and again, the $20 noid test light kid off azmazon. I ended up buying 1 injector from Rock Auto (Ultra Power brand) for about $50. It's been well over 11k miles since the install with zero issues.

While you're there, I'd recommend changing the spark plugs since it will take you another 15 minutes or so do swap them out.

sparkyjonze

Yup, got the stethoscope and confirmed no ticking in fuel injector 1 while the problem is actually happening. Do I need the noid kit if I will use the ohmmeter on the connector when I get it apart? That's how I planned to approach it. Test to confirm problem not the connector then move forward on replacing the injectors.

I hear you on the spark plugs, but you don't know me. It will be a small miracle if I just get the original project complete. Plus it doesn't look like a whole lot of labor savings to me over doing it another time. Isn't it really just a matter of taking off the cabin filters and assorted 3-4 small pieces to get engine cover off and do the plugs?

twh

I would forget the connector test. Just put in the new injector when you get it.

militarydave

Yeah it's a bad injector. You don't need the noid light. Get a new injector and call it a day.

militarydave

Don't mess with the plugs then. Hope the new injector replacement works out!