bighersh

Yeah, I have an old classmate who had an M3, before trading it in on a Harley-Davidson F-150. I'll ask him where he used to go. As soon as I told him I had a bimmer, the firs thing he told me was stay away from the dealership when it needs servicing or repair! LOL. Only take it there if no one else can fix it.

I knew that- my roommate in the Army had a 1991 325i coupe, and he took it to Garlyn-Shelton BMW in Temple, TX- and in 1993, paid $799 for the 30,000 mile service. He was pi**ed, because when he read the paperwork, all he really got was an oil change, tire-rotation, and had his interior vaccumed. Everything else was, inspect this, inspect that, inspect the other... About $35 worth of work, for $799. Those days are gone for those who bought their BMW new- with 3- years of $0 maintenance.

My Edge is coming off lease in November, and I'm trying to talk my wife into wanting a new 335i sedan. I told her I'd give it to her, and I'd take the 2004 5-series, since I only drive 12-miles a day, 3 days a week: but she wants another full-size, 3-row SUV...

I admit, I miss having the big SUV too when it's time to travel (onec or twice a year), but I don't miss it when I pull up to the pump (once or twice a week).

theXman

For $20/rotor more, you might as well get the drill and slot rotors from acuteperformance. He stands behind the products he sells. Plus they will perform and look better than OEM or regular rotors.

BTW - Do you still own a MDX?

bighersh

Not anymore, but I was considering leasing a 2010 or 2011- or I might just pick up a used Expedition or Navigator and call it a day.

I was a bit leary about the after market brakes, because my buddy (the same one who used to have the M3) now has a GS460- which he bought used. It had after market brakes (I don't know what kind), and they could not get it to stop squealing- until they put the OEM components back on it. I've never had a car long enough to need brakes before (damn economy), so I've never had the pleasure of doing this before- so I know "0" about aftermarket stuff, other than what I hear others say. I've read Motor Trend and other mags go on and on about cross-drilled rotors, Brembo this & that... But, I've never experienced it in my own POV.

My partner had the Brembo brakes on his Porsche 911 Turbo, and that thing had the best brakes I've ever witnessed. That thing can go from 60 - 0 in what felt like 50 feet! LOL.

omaralt

just to let you know i was quoted $650 for rear brakes and rotors at the dealership. they ended up only needing to do the pads for $300. this is at the dealership and with me getting a loaner. definitely worth it. $2K at meineke is insane. i wouldnt let them touch my car for free..

acuteperformance

If you don't want the Hawk HPS, I carry the Hawk Ceramic line as well which offers even less dust than the HPS. If price is what's holding you back, I offer a lot of different options to help meet your budget. What I'm saying is, I'll work with you to get what you want.

Why not buy a vendor who supports the forum and has a flawless rep on the forum instead of risking it with another untested seller?

Michael
Acute Performance

Ceenit

+1 on a good indy.

Brakes are an easy DIY for any semi-mechanically inclined shade tree mechaninc. Any reputable indy should only charge you 2-3 of hours labor (bring your own parts).

Not to get into a huge debase on rotor types and when to switch out, but have someone measure the thickness/machine before you decide to replace. They usually can last through at least two pads and warping is not very common on quality OEM rotors.

Also, while I like the aesthetics of slotted or drilled, there is a tradeoff with rotor longevity/pad wear/and breaking smoothness. It's not just the pad that makes your friends porsche stop so quickly, the 911 also has at least 4 pistons per caliper and significantly larger rotors.

Unbelievable that Meineke was also trying to rip you like that.