douglassimi

Looking for ideas or suggestions, with today?s events I am at a total loss.

I have a 2005 545I 4.4 V8 N62.

Recently drove from California to Wisconsin. Car had a slight water leak that upon my arrival to Wisconsin, found it to be the water pump (OMG what were they thinking with the a/c belt design, and that one stupid bolt under the crank pulley). Changed the water pump, both belts, and the idler and tensioner pulleys due to noise and age.

Fired the car up and it ran like crap, wont idle unless the a/c is on, and started blowing smoke out the exhaust after sitting and idling(I say this is a new issue that started with the water pump replacement, while on my trip I stopped in Kansas to pick up my girlfriend and at one point, left the car in a mall parking lot idling for 6 hours with not a single issue, and this was due to my four legged daughter being left in the car in 90deg weather, yes, I love my dog more than my car), but only after starting to drive away, not the instant you start to accelerate (this is important because everyone is telling me it?s the valve guides, it?s not), also there is a whistle like a vacuum leak which I can?t seem to find, shocking as these engines don?t produce engine vacuum like a standard engine, hence the need for a vacuum pump.

First round of repairs, changed the CCV valves, as to my knowledge this is the only thing that would allow oil to get into the intake manifold (which I have determined by round two repair, there was a TON of oil in the manifold, and I?m sure there still is some, ant ideas on how to take apart the intake and clean it). The ccv valves on my car came with the vacuum nipple on them that attaches to a hose that tees into the air intake hose right in from of the throttle body. One of the valve caps for the ccv valve broke during the repair, and the replacement caps that come in the kit do not have this vacuum nipple on them, is it important, is it needed, how can you eliminate these lines and cap off the fittings, as I have been told by one dealer (who I trust, but just don?t feel I?m getting the right answer this time).

Second round of repairs, pulled the intake to determine if the whistle was cause by a leaking air injection hose under the intake. Upon removal of the intake, found a broken connector for the air injection hose, most likely from when I put the water pump on I reinstalled the retaining clamp incorrectly and it pulled on the old brittle connection and broke it. Noticed large amounts of oil running out of the intake manifold ports upon removal. Did a large amount of research on the CCV valves to no avail, still don?t know what to do. So I took on of the new nipple less caps, opened up the hole a little and installed a nipple and super glued it into place. Parts replaced, intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, air injection hose, both the piece running under the intake and the flexible part going to the air pump itself, upper and lower injector o rings, new design ccv vent hoses to connect the valve covers to the ports on the intake. Also order but not yet installed are new plugs and the coils. I have had multiple issues over the years with misfires, and have read countless forums about the coil problem, and the dealer has replaced 4 for the coils about 100k miles ago, so I?m just biting the bullet and doing it. Got everything buttoned back up today, fired up the car, and poof....runs like crap and still smokes, still whistles. The most interesting thing is, upon COLD start up, it runs fine, it?s like once it reaches operating temperature something in the electronics switches, and the whistle starts and the rough idle and the SES light appears and sets codes P0300-P0308....all for misfires on the cylinders

The reason I say it?s not the valve guides, I had the intake off for 5 days while waiting for the parts to arrive, and used a solvent to clean the intake ports and the tops of the valves as I wanted to make sure, that there was no oil leaking down the valve stems. There was NOTHING on the upper part of the valves, barely even any residue, and none of the intake deposits that plagued BMWs of years past.

advancedlogic

Maybe a VANOS system fault/failure? First though is the smoke - color? smell? amount? Any mocha colored oil on the dipstick? On the oil cap? The intake was removed. Were all wiring connections checked? Especially the VANOS solenoid connectors? Was the Ebox touched? Were any connections to the computers removed? A proper fault scan diagnosis may be your best bet. If an enthusiast near you has DIS and/or INPA on their laptop (and the appropriate cable), perhaps they'd be willing to run a diagnosis for you. Otherwise you will need to find a BMW dealer, or obtain the equipment needed to do it yourself (start by going to www.bmwcoding.com). Good luck with her and keep us posted on the outcome.

healthservices

Don't worry about the nipple they are not needed, cap off at the intake.

Just because there is a vacuum pump does not mean there is no vacuum. Just not enough vacuum to provide brake boost.

One of the ways to test leaking valve stem seals is to let it idle for 5 mins. Then do a snap throttle test and see of there is a puff of smoke.

Note if you had a lot of leakage into the motor and it burned it, not all of the oil has burned out of the cats. do a long drive on the freeway in (do it in a lower gear to get it hot) to burn out the oil from inside the cats.

After the motor is warm pull the MAF connector to see if it idles better. I doubt this till help but...

If you had a misfire for a extended period it is possible to wash the rings out with oil. I doubt you ran the car that long to mess things up but if the plugs are now fouled replacing them will at least make it idle better for a while.

douglassimi

I guess there is a posibility of the VANOS system failure, but wouldn't that throw a code, the only codes im getting are p0300-p0308 for random misfires. Off idle the engine runs great, like there is nothing wrong, all my problems are at idle, and they all manifisted at the time the water pump was replaced, nothing at all was wrong prior to the water prump replacement.

No discolored oil on the oil cap or dipstick. The smoke is blue oil smoke, and if the vehichle is left idleing for a long period of time, the plume out the tail pipe is enough to make a car behind me disappera, ive even had one or two change lanes....its like an F1 engine that goes POOF. but then its gone, just blagh, and then off like a rocket ship, like nothing ever happened.

All the wiring has been rechecked, at the loom on the engine where all the connections to the sensors and the like are, and yes the ebox was touched, and all that has been reinsatlled correctly and rechecked.

Do you know if i can take apart the intake and clean the innards out, when the intake was off for a few days i would go and turn it to move the oil around so it would drain out the ports, one time i moved the internals and i would say i got 4-6 ounces of oil out of the ports on the intake.

healthservices

Seafoam is supposed to be good for that. Vacuum hose and a little be at a time into the intake.

douglassimi

I have let the engine idle, and done the snap throttle test, and gotten no smoke, but then, when I get in the car and drive away.....in my opinion causing a motion to make the oil built up in the manifold run to the back of the manifold, it will after 30-40 feet create a huge discharge and plume of blue smoke out the tail pipe.

Just got the engine up to temp, and unplugged the maf.....it?s hard to tell if it runs better or not, it does change the idle, but not to something I would say is better

If the CCV valves were replaced, is there anything else that could allow oil into the engine through the intake, and how do they function, what was the purpose of the vacuum line going to it in the original design....and are you aware of the retrofit pass side valve cover and ccv valve inline not in the cover....I considered this repair at the time I was doing all this but balked at the additional 400$, and the perceived difficulty in removing that valve cover as I have heard it is quite a chore....research SIB 11 01 07 for the different ideas on CCV issues....

Also, any idea why the replacement nipple less caps have a small hole in them that goes through to the valve area, does the vacuum pull up on the valve, or was it just there for the heck of it....it?s just perplexing to me....but if you say just shut up and pull the line and cap off the air intake nipple, that I will do.........I?m just at a loss for what I could have screwed up so bad just changing the water pump, even if I did break the air injection hose, it?s been replaced, and yet still there is the same whistle in the intake area....

Question, on these cars, if the ccv is functioning properly, you are to be able to remove the oil cap or dipstick and there isn?t a change in the way the engine runs, or there would be a change.

douglassimi

At the current rate things are going, im contemplating pulling the intake back off tomorrow to clean out the inside, should i just blast the inside with seafoam cleaner, or carb spray, and swish it around till it drains clean out the ports

healthservices

my motor will quit if I pull the cap off

healthservices

filtered air is the only reason I see.

douglassimi

Thats what i thought, i can pull the cap off and it doesnt die, and if i pull the dipstick tube, same thing, but if i pull the ccv valve hose to the manifold, it will die. Just wondering if that is point to a vacuum leak still existing or not, or maybe still an issue with the ccv valves i replaced.

The sea foma you mentionaed, how should i go about getting that in the motor, pull the air intake hose and just spray inside, or let it go in through the air intake nipple while the engine is running??

Do you have any experience with taking one of thses intakes apart, im worried that something might be speing loaded or have a certain tension on it and not go back to gether correctly