Paint chips on my hood
#1
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My Ride: 2006 525i
Jet Black, keep my passenger seat extra clean after I(married/3kids) drop off my new mistress(half black/half indian gives great head even though I have Jock itch/yeast infection), don't want anything leaking from her crotch after I have my way with her
Hi All,
I have had my 05 525i now for a month. I had the car washed today and much to my dismay I have noticed 2 paint chips on the hood :'( > Does anyone have any recomendations on repairing. No dents, just the paint damage. The areas are about the size of nail head. My color is jet black so it really shows on the edges of the damages (white).
I am stringly considering the $700+ for the 3m claer bra. Any recomendations or experience with the clear bra is appreciated.
I have had my 05 525i now for a month. I had the car washed today and much to my dismay I have noticed 2 paint chips on the hood :'( > Does anyone have any recomendations on repairing. No dents, just the paint damage. The areas are about the size of nail head. My color is jet black so it really shows on the edges of the damages (white).
I am stringly considering the $700+ for the 3m claer bra. Any recomendations or experience with the clear bra is appreciated.
#2
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Had the same issue in my MB and currently have a few chips in my E6o from trailing a rock throw snow salt truck in Colorado. My front bumper was basically sandblasted. I can deal with it for year or so before painting.
Advice: A Bentley bodywork guy next to the MB dealer I have my car serviced gave me this advice a few years and it worked great...
Get the paint repair bottle from the dealer in your respective color (the one that looks like fingernail polish). Shack the hell out of it to mix the chemicals! Wash the car and dry out the chip spots very well. I was so anal I used a hair dryer. Then use a toothpick to apply the paint. Little tiny dot, by little tiny dot, until you fill in the chip mark. When you're done, let it dry and then use a REALLY fine sandpaper, I think it was 650 girts or something crazy like that, to smooth it out. Then wax.
Up close, you could see it barely, but just glancing at the car, it was not visible. My MB is a wine burgundy, but the darker the car the better.
Hope this helps.
Advice: A Bentley bodywork guy next to the MB dealer I have my car serviced gave me this advice a few years and it worked great...
Get the paint repair bottle from the dealer in your respective color (the one that looks like fingernail polish). Shack the hell out of it to mix the chemicals! Wash the car and dry out the chip spots very well. I was so anal I used a hair dryer. Then use a toothpick to apply the paint. Little tiny dot, by little tiny dot, until you fill in the chip mark. When you're done, let it dry and then use a REALLY fine sandpaper, I think it was 650 girts or something crazy like that, to smooth it out. Then wax.
Up close, you could see it barely, but just glancing at the car, it was not visible. My MB is a wine burgundy, but the darker the car the better.
Hope this helps.
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My Ride: 530iA Silver Grey , black interior. Premium Package, Navigation System, Head-up Display, Radio Satellite, Adaptive Xenon Headlights. AC Schnitzer Front Lip, H&R springs, Rear red reflector, All season Floor mat,
Thanks i will try that on my car too..
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Or, you can just use a black permanant market to color in the spots. It takes 3 or so coats to blend with the black paint. Easy to do though. Sharpie's work great. That's one of the nice things about Jet Black. Nowhere near as good a fix as what is described above, but takes about 30 seconds, and if you don't like it, you can always go for the more involved fix.
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My Ride: 04 545i HUD, comfort seats, PDC, moon roof, Logic 7, Nav, Steptronic, K7 and diffusers, Aux-in for iPod!
just wanted to mention my experience with the Langka on my titanium grey:
well, the process works as promised, but the white sanding fluid significantly lightened the factory paint so that even though the surface is pretty smooth, the color doesn't match at all. the pseudo-wet sanding process changed the applied touchup paint way too much. so, it seems to me that the toothpick process is more sound because at least the color matches. ultimately, it's better for the colors to match than for the chip to be smooth.
just my own experience. it's a pity really.
well, the process works as promised, but the white sanding fluid significantly lightened the factory paint so that even though the surface is pretty smooth, the color doesn't match at all. the pseudo-wet sanding process changed the applied touchup paint way too much. so, it seems to me that the toothpick process is more sound because at least the color matches. ultimately, it's better for the colors to match than for the chip to be smooth.
just my own experience. it's a pity really.
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My Ride: 545iSMGSilver GrayAuburn Dakota LeatherLogic 7 Premium SoundSports Package
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My Ride: 545iSMGSilver GrayAuburn Dakota LeatherLogic 7 Premium SoundSports Package
Originally Posted by stoogefan' date='Mar 6 2005, 03:32 PM
I am stringly considering the $700+ for the 3m claer bra. Any recomendations or experience with the clear bra is appreciated.
[snapback]97986[/snapback]
For pics of the bra
http://forums.e60.net/index.php?act=module...album&album=108
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My Ride: '05 545i, silver gray, black leather with anthracite maple wood, sport package, premium sound, navigation, cold weather package, electric rear sunshade, folding rear seat, satellite radio prep, PIAA 4150K fogs, red rear reflectors, hardwired Valentine One
Buy the factory touch up paint. Clean the chip area to remove all wax. Using the tip of a toothpick, apply a VERY small amount, let dry an hour, apply another small amount, let dry, repeat until repair is flush with surface.
I wouldn't mess around with any sand paper unless you really know what you're doing, otherwise you could easily sand through the clear coat and have a bigger problem than you started with.
Langka (mentioned above) does not work well with metallic colors because the smoothing process removes a disproportionate amount of the metallic flakes so the repair doesn't match the original paint, but on non-metallic colors it works well.
I wouldn't mess around with any sand paper unless you really know what you're doing, otherwise you could easily sand through the clear coat and have a bigger problem than you started with.
Langka (mentioned above) does not work well with metallic colors because the smoothing process removes a disproportionate amount of the metallic flakes so the repair doesn't match the original paint, but on non-metallic colors it works well.
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I agree. Don't use the sandpaper unless you know what you're doing. The 650 or so grit felt like newpaper and is very soft when you wet sand with your fingertip. But I the first one or two chips I did, I had to buff out because I did go through the clear coat. YOU HAVE TO BE VERY GENTLE if you wet sand it. Good luck.