Which oil do you prefer?
06-27-2012, 07:27 PM
#14
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My Ride: 04 545i Sapphire black
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lol crazy nigg, ik ik the dealership has them for $6 a quart...I just figured mobil 1 was better.
G-Oil. Cow fat converted to oil.
06-27-2012, 09:09 PM
#16
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No, Don't change it ASAP, but I used to use Castrol Edge Sport TWS 10w-60. It's an M oil, and I used it in 4.4l X5. Slighly helps when oil consumption, but I learned that you should use oil that is reccomended for YOUR engine. And I too payed 23$ Quart.
06-28-2012, 04:04 AM
#17
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Fully agree that there is no need to change it out. Especially becuase it is the summer months. Ir it were winter and you were in an extremely cold climate, you'ld probably be encouraged to switch sooner than later.
06-28-2012, 08:13 AM
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My Ride: 2006 BMW 550i "Ben Hogan's 5 Iron"
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I tend to lean towards an approved LL-01 oils, but far more important that exactly which brand oil or which weight you use it that you change it often.
5K miles between changes for normal driving with full synthetic oil. More often if you do stop and go driving or lots of short trips.
Older engines tend to introduce more contaminants (gasoline, soot, coolant, unburned gases, condensed water vapor) into the oil, necessitating more frequent changes. Changing the oil more often greatly reduces the chance of sludge forming.
I strongly recommend full synthetic oil for any engine, and lean towards oils that have the first number as 0W (example 0W-40). This denotes good low ambient temperature starting as there are additives in the oil that help the oil flow at low temperatures. The first 5 seconds during start up are the highest wear on the engine and a free flowing oil will give protection (getting oil between friction surfaces) the fastest.
Oil additives make a base oil, which is basically a straight weight oil, act as a lower weight oil during start up, and act as a higher weight oil during operation (hence the multi-viscosity rating of 0W-40. However, oil additives, including detergent which keeps dirt suspended in the oil so it doesn't settle on and adhere to engine surfaces, don't last long. Once the additives are used up the characteristics of the oil changes and bad things start to happen. Samples of oil removed during testing suggest that after 7K to 8K miles of normal use many of the additives are gone. And remember that oil life is really measured in hours, not miles. Severe testing done by the oil industry to qualify oils for certain ratings is always measured in hours, but the recommendation for oil changes is always expressed in miles operated.
Low average speeds (think stop and go driving) means many more hours of operation than high average speeds (highway driving with few stops) for a given set of miles driven.
If I were driving my BMW every day in stop and go traffic and averaging 12-15 mph for the trip, I would have absolutely no hesitation in changing my oil every 3K miles with full synthetic.
Sound excessive? It is all up to you. It is your engine and it is very expensive.
5K miles between changes for normal driving with full synthetic oil. More often if you do stop and go driving or lots of short trips.
Older engines tend to introduce more contaminants (gasoline, soot, coolant, unburned gases, condensed water vapor) into the oil, necessitating more frequent changes. Changing the oil more often greatly reduces the chance of sludge forming.
I strongly recommend full synthetic oil for any engine, and lean towards oils that have the first number as 0W (example 0W-40). This denotes good low ambient temperature starting as there are additives in the oil that help the oil flow at low temperatures. The first 5 seconds during start up are the highest wear on the engine and a free flowing oil will give protection (getting oil between friction surfaces) the fastest.
Oil additives make a base oil, which is basically a straight weight oil, act as a lower weight oil during start up, and act as a higher weight oil during operation (hence the multi-viscosity rating of 0W-40. However, oil additives, including detergent which keeps dirt suspended in the oil so it doesn't settle on and adhere to engine surfaces, don't last long. Once the additives are used up the characteristics of the oil changes and bad things start to happen. Samples of oil removed during testing suggest that after 7K to 8K miles of normal use many of the additives are gone. And remember that oil life is really measured in hours, not miles. Severe testing done by the oil industry to qualify oils for certain ratings is always measured in hours, but the recommendation for oil changes is always expressed in miles operated.
Low average speeds (think stop and go driving) means many more hours of operation than high average speeds (highway driving with few stops) for a given set of miles driven.
If I were driving my BMW every day in stop and go traffic and averaging 12-15 mph for the trip, I would have absolutely no hesitation in changing my oil every 3K miles with full synthetic.
Sound excessive? It is all up to you. It is your engine and it is very expensive.
My preference is Mobile 1 o-40W but been buying Castrol Syntec 0-30W given frequent special deals. Always gonna put a LL-01 and 0 number in.
06-29-2012, 09:12 AM
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My Ride: 2008 550I LOADED, all options except HUD and NV
I have been using Royal Purple in all my cars for 10 years now, even when I raced I used it in my race car. I have had no problems, and I don;t have to look for the "European Blend" since it is already a fully synthetic oil 