Cricketts

In regard to oil change interval indications. If you drove on the highway and commute distances of 20 to 30 miles plus, the system would indicate a mileage much greater than what you are experiencing, It would be more like 10, 12 or 15K to next change.

The numbers you see are a direct result of your short driving trips. Personally, I would rather walk the 3 miles to reduce engine wear, build up of carbons and very poor mileage and undercharged battery. but that's just me.

horfcha

Thanks. There's no other dealers within many miles, but there's an independent shop that's founded by the former head of the dealer service dpt. So I'll take it there, I think.


The indy shop did recommend I get a new battery, too, as they said low mileage probably decreased its life.

I looked at the oil on the dipstick and it looked pretty sludgy to me. I think I'll just get it changed in the next month so that I can have a clean slate.

So you're saying I should really be driving more that 5-10 miles a day or it will negatively affect the car? Problem is, I just live in a small town. I usually put 50 miles or so on the weekends, but during the week, there's nowhere to go.


I often wake up late, and I appreciate the extra 45 minutes I save by driving. I've been averaging about 18mpg on this tank, which I thought was normal for in town?

SilberGrauE60

I'll let others chime in as well, but in my opinion, two short runs less than 5 miles each way five days a week is doing damage. The oil will be retaining contaminents that are not burning off because it never reaches operating temp. In addition, water vapor will be retained in the exhaust system rather than drying out due to the same reason. But, it sounds like there's nothing you can do about it, so just live with it. When you do get a chance to get in a longer run, make sure and keep the RPMs above 4,000 for an extended period by staying in a lower gear, such as highway speed in 4th gear. That will open up the second exhaust pipe as well as get the oil temps up to hopefully burn off the engine deposits.

BTW, did your clutch burn out because you were holding it on a slope with the clutch instead of the brakes? The proper way to hold the car at a stop is tranny in neutral, clutch out and brake on. You're not supposed to keep the clutch depressed when at a full stop.

horfcha

Thanks, good tips. I haven't been touching higher rpms because the service manager told me to stay under 3k for the first 500 miles, but I'll make sure to do that soon.

I think the clutch burnt out because of the previous two owners' habits. I hadn't noticed it on my test drives (I thought this was just me getting used to a new transmission), but when I was on the freeway, in 5th gear at low rpms, the tach would skyrocket without a corresponding increase in speed for a few seconds. Luckily, they covered it under the 60day warranty. I try to keep the car in neutral, clutch out, whenever I don't require power (i.e. cruising downhill or at a stop).

KAF

Do not do this!

When in motion the car should always be in gear clutch up, never in neutral.

You will save no fuel this way, but will compromise safety as you will have no use of the engine for control.

SilberGrauE60

I believe the service manager meant to stay below 3K rpms during clutch release only. Once fully engaged, there's no issue to the clutch with how high you let the engine go. After all, the clutch better not be slipping after it is all the way out--as you discovered with your first clutch. But, hey it's your car, and drive it like you want to.

horfcha

No no, these are all good tips! I was only taught to drive by my parents, and they are English professors Now that I have a car that's worth more than its weight in scrap metal, I need to learn to drive it properly.

Thanks.