No crank no start 535i x drive 2010. Tried everything
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These were the last codes I got at this now third week of no crank no start. It was my friends driving normal, then random no start. Shady city Dealer crazy charged him for false dme codes in the beginning. So he towed it to me. Can’t get the car to crank for the life of me. Went from just a hum of the starter, to two clicks of the starter, maybe unaligned ? Don’t believe the starter was out In wrong, will try again tomorrow. Third used starter not working. But tested before in they all turn and work. Terminal 50 codes are the most present in the past few weeks. But knowing that terminal 50 can be the positive terminal connection in the trunk, in the cas, or on the starter.idk what it is. I do have a feeling it could be the terminal 50 in the trunk that is a piece of metal bent to touch a wire. And it’s pretty far away from it (tried forcing it closer did a bit) but did nothing for the crank. If it’s more than a few mm would it be faulty? I was going to try, halfway tried, unplugging the ibs, alternator, oil sensor , and the two other things to diagnose the data bus communication problem, but went away after battery registration then came back but “not present”. A Terminal 50 code always seems to be there along w engine start, starter operation. Got a new ground wire from body to alternator for now, old was shredded bad. Every thing I have done; all I get Is click click now as I try to start. All electric components turn on fine air blows etc but starter won’t crank. Electrical or mechanical? I’m guessing electrical. But I’ve done by 3 master techs and they can’t help me reach a point. It’s getting frustrating; as my other N54 e60 started acting up as well -.-; any inputs on electrical issue ideas related to the battery and terminal 50 and the cas itself , the starervs just starter solenoid , ground cable cable earth cable ? , can I swap the ibs sensor and positive battery terminal wire and box from my 08 into my 2010 as I think terminal 50 in the red box terminal connection is far too apart from the wire to conduct power to the starter so may help the issue. Same with the ibs. Would I have to recode? Can anyone point me in the right direction for Insta??? Like is it a plug in and a cd for my laptop? Can I get it in my maxisys/autel? Is there a way to read voltages and power to components on a maxisys to figure out why the starter isn’t cranking? Where the power is lacking? What’s myCarly and is it worth it for this issue? Or can my maxisys do the same thing? I really need help guys. I miss driving my babies . Tomorrow will be another full day figuring it out, any help would be appreciated. Going to check the cables under the battery tray , checking all fuses tomorrow in trunk and in glove box, checking voltage coming from dme to cas wiring , make sure main dme relay is good, try swapping both positive and negative terminal connectors from 08 to 2010. Maybe check if starter really is aligned right.. ? Phew. It’s been months between the cars guys. Months. This one I just got like two week ago and it’s still unsolved . Halpppppoop
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You either have a bad CAS or wiring issue between the CAS and starter from the ebox (connector). Also ensure you BST is not damaged and check the KL 30g relay behind the glove compartment. Hell it could be the starter itself causing the A0B4 code. That's all I can think of being possible issues. Clear codes and see if the on CAS code that comes back is the A0B4 code if so change your starter or at least test it.
Last edited by seanjordan20; 09-28-2021 at 08:03 PM.
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My Ride: 2008+2010 535xi style 118s and rc10 Rohanas graphite and gloss black
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Which are you referring to when you say Ebox ? The box at the positive terminal with terminal 50 on it ? And what’s the BST, battery safety terminal? And again KL relay? Stands for what relay? But will do all that tomorrow 💪🏽💎 appreciate it. Might just have to get a new starter, but three ans two from working cars and one tested right before install… unlike let out would be a great easy fix … cas, can I use from my other car ? And recode it? Or better to buy new? And the red box on positive terminal with terminal 50 in it, can i change that out with the same from my 2008 ? Will do all this tomorrow.
You either have a bad CAS or wiring issue between the CAS and starter from the ebox (connector). Also ensure you BST is not damaged and check the KL 30g relay behind the glove compartment. Hell it could be the starter itself causing the A0B4 code. That's all I can think of being possible issues. Clear codes and see if the on CAS code that comes back is the A0B4 code if so change your starter or at least test it.
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Thanks sean. Ebox meaning the red positive connector? And bay meaning battery safety terminal? And what’s the Kl relay? Haha. Will Ry all that later this morning
You either have a bad CAS or wiring issue between the CAS and starter from the ebox (connector). Also ensure you BST is not damaged and check the KL 30g relay behind the glove compartment. Hell it could be the starter itself causing the A0B4 code. That's all I can think of being possible issues. Clear codes and see if the on CAS code that comes back is the A0B4 code if so change your starter or at least test it.
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Ebox is the black box that houses your ECU under the hood and other things. BST is correct and KL 30g relay supplies power to your CAS. Most of the time it will not act up until it gets hot so most having CAS issues just replace it. It should be the only relay to the right side of the fuse box behind the glove box. You need to clear codes before troubleshooting further. Do not ignore that it could just be a bad starter. That's what your active CAS code is indicating.
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Another thing to check is the engine group strap. Braided cable located on the right side, under the engine. Attaches to the inner fender wall. They get hard over time and sometimes break. You can test that theory with some jumper cables and use only one of the jumper cable conductors and hook one end to something metal on the engine and the other end to the jump starting ground lug that is under the hood.
Also check the tightness of the positive cable connections at the under the hood positive jumper terminal.
Also check the tightness of the positive cable connections at the under the hood positive jumper terminal.
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