acarpenter

Yes, I knowingly bought the car with this issue. No, I didn't pay much. Not much at all.
I have not personally run any tests or opened up the engine yet to inspect the damage, but I thought I would give some others a chance to point me in the right direction. I've found a bunch of other threads too, but if you've had the issue and have useful insight I'd much appreciate you sharing!

The report from the (non BMW) mechanics I bought it from are that the engine does have compression and will turn over but won't start. Hopefully they didn't try to start it too many times(!!!)... politely asked them not to prove to me that it wouldn't start when I showed up.

****Also... if someone has the crank seal removal and install tool they would rent me, I'd be much obliged.

acarpenter

Hi guys, so I removed the valve cover today and did find pieces of belt in under there. Oh joy. Looks like now I get to remove the oil pan. Has anyone done this on a 525xi? Just wondering how much of the suspension/non drive train parts need to be removed to remove the sub frame?


What is my logical order or operations to determine whether this engine is toast? I didn't get to investigate much under the valve cover because I ran out of time, but obviously will look for a broken timing chain guide. Other areas I've read of that have been damaged are rod bearings and potentially the crank seal journal, obviously inspecting the latter requires the special removal tool. My idea is buy as few special tools as possible and dismantle as little as possible before I know if this engine is going to need replaced...

Plan is to inspect as much as possible under the valve cover, then I guess proceed to oil pan which I'm sure is full of belt crap.

L337E60

This would give you an idea of what you have to do to remove the oil pan:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-sump/1Leb3ONA

GL

acarpenter

Thanks!

Haven't had a ton of time to do this, but was working under the car today. Got the front axles all but removed as well as dropped the driveshaft.
I still need to drain the front diff- made a 14mm hex tool out of a bolt and some nuts but need to tighten it more to remove the drain plug.

The TIS site doesn't mention removing the front sway bar (unless it's a prerequisite removal) or anything about power steering. Anyone have any experience with one of the AWD models?

acarpenter

Update:
After tons of work, finally got oil pan off. Just as I expected, there was plenty of belt debris in there as well as in the oil uptake screen. Luckily, I removed some of the rod bearing journals to inspect for damage and there was a copious amount of oil that greeted me followed by smooth bearing surfaces. I also pulled the old front crank seal - shout out to yelcab, the proper tool makes that removal a 5 minute job. Once you have the radiator out of course. Ordered my parts today now that I appear to be in the clear of starvation damage. Will hopefully get it all reassembled this weekend or early next week and see if she won't start up...

Any recommendations for cleaning the oil pan? Is it OK to pressure wash if I give plenty of time for water to dry/evap?

ripley

I cleaned mine with an alkali based degreaser/cleaner (overnight), then gave it to a wet blaster to make it nice again on the outside.

Then I cleaned it about ten times with hose and brush to ensure no grit was left inside.

acarpenter

Cheers, and thanks for the method.

__________________________________________________


Planning my attack this morning. Summary below. Help if you can. Sorry if some verbiage is incorrect or questions elementary. Using this whole experience to get my hands dirty and learn more about engines. Missions accomplished. Now if this thing will start after... well, jackpot.

What all should I clean or investigate while I wait for parts to be delivered?

-removed belt from oil pan and uptake
-removed belt from timing chain area
-removed belt from valve cover area

Plans to:
-clean the valve area as best I can and vacuum debris
-clean front of engine best I can
-obvious things- replace belt tensioner, gaskets (pan, OFHG(s), valve cover), main seal, avoid cussing too much on reassembly, etc.
-replace battery, this one is totally gone
-use INPA to check codes after reassembly and battery install





//////////////
Short story for those that don't want to go back through:
Broken belt, replaced belt, driven a few miles, engine died with low oil pressure light, no crank/start...

(I bought it)

Didn't attempt to start, performed all work above and found belt pieces throughout including in the uptake/pan/timing chain. Engine appears to not have symptoms of oil starvation (thick oil film in rod bearings), timing chain appears to be intact to my untrained eyes, no metal flakes or debris in oil pan or oil filter, there was a good amount of oil in filter area.



Thanks in advance for your continued help and guidance.

acarpenter