New member from Belfast
01-26-2015, 03:33 AM
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New member from Belfast
Hi to all from not so sunny Belfast.
Recently moved from an e39 540i M Sport to an e60 530d SE. Have a really annoying problem with it in that after heavy rain or a trip to an over enthusiastic car wash, my electrics go all funky. The Tire Flat , driving control system, window trap and headlights all flash up warnings. To make matters worse, if its dark, the headlights will switch themselves off while the ECU appears to reset itself.
Any pointers would be much appreciated.
Cheers.
Recently moved from an e39 540i M Sport to an e60 530d SE. Have a really annoying problem with it in that after heavy rain or a trip to an over enthusiastic car wash, my electrics go all funky. The Tire Flat , driving control system, window trap and headlights all flash up warnings. To make matters worse, if its dark, the headlights will switch themselves off while the ECU appears to reset itself.
Any pointers would be much appreciated.
Cheers.
01-26-2015, 04:00 AM
#2
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Welcome to the forum! 
Sorry to hear that you're having all of those troubles! 
Do you have a way to get the history of the car? It isn't a salvage title by any chance, is it? Almost sounds like it was flooded at one time. That will make the car's electronics go haywire.
Sorry to hear that you're having all of those troubles! Do you have a way to get the history of the car? It isn't a salvage title by any chance, is it? Almost sounds like it was flooded at one time. That will make the car's electronics go haywire.
01-27-2015, 02:12 AM
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Hi jayarras.
Thanks for the reply. I suspect that the boot lid has been replaced at a time as there are signs of the wiring being joined at the boot lid hinge so maybe it has got wet during that time. The inside of the right side inner boot looks dry and doesn't look water damaged and the spare wheel well is dry as well.
I read an article somewhere that there is a drain plug below the right side particle filter just below the front wiper blade which sometimes gets blocked but when I pour water in that area is comes out below the front wheel as expected. I've read other articles that say it could be the sunroof drain but I sealed it with Vaseline as a test and the next rainy day shebang, it all cuts out.
It was just a nuisance before but the other day in the dark, it killed the headlights just after Id left the house and a car pulled out in front of me thinking I'd flashed him to go.
I might try disconnecting the IBS to see if that helps. From the service receipts it had a new battery fitted 6 months before I bought it so I doubt its that.
Any pointers gratefully accepted.
Cheers.
Thanks for the reply. I suspect that the boot lid has been replaced at a time as there are signs of the wiring being joined at the boot lid hinge so maybe it has got wet during that time. The inside of the right side inner boot looks dry and doesn't look water damaged and the spare wheel well is dry as well.
I read an article somewhere that there is a drain plug below the right side particle filter just below the front wiper blade which sometimes gets blocked but when I pour water in that area is comes out below the front wheel as expected. I've read other articles that say it could be the sunroof drain but I sealed it with Vaseline as a test and the next rainy day shebang, it all cuts out.
It was just a nuisance before but the other day in the dark, it killed the headlights just after Id left the house and a car pulled out in front of me thinking I'd flashed him to go.
I might try disconnecting the IBS to see if that helps. From the service receipts it had a new battery fitted 6 months before I bought it so I doubt its that.
Any pointers gratefully accepted.
Cheers.
02-17-2015, 12:15 AM
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And so it continues….
And so it continues….
I disconnected the Intelligent Battery Sensor and the car ran fine for about 10 days, however there wasn’t any really heavy rain nor did I use the car wash. With the IBS disconnected, the startup sequence (all lights going out on dash from initial turn of ignition key) seems to be about 2 seconds quicker.
During the 10 days, I started the car before the DSC and within 20 seconds of driving off, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen went dark, headlights went off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero. This was after a dry night.
Yesterday I went to the car wash and overnight heavy rain and guess what, same problem, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen went dark, headlights went off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero. I’ve checked the boot and its bone dry.
This is driving me crazy. L
I disconnected the Intelligent Battery Sensor and the car ran fine for about 10 days, however there wasn’t any really heavy rain nor did I use the car wash. With the IBS disconnected, the startup sequence (all lights going out on dash from initial turn of ignition key) seems to be about 2 seconds quicker.
During the 10 days, I started the car before the DSC and within 20 seconds of driving off, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen went dark, headlights went off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero. This was after a dry night.
Yesterday I went to the car wash and overnight heavy rain and guess what, same problem, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen went dark, headlights went off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero. I’ve checked the boot and its bone dry.
This is driving me crazy. L
02-17-2015, 08:17 AM
#8
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Moving this to the main discussion forum to give your problem more exposure. Perhaps someone will have suggestions here.
~ Jay
~ Jay
10-06-2015, 01:46 AM
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Hi Folks.
SUCCESS!!!!
After almost a year of issues, it looks like my problem has been fixed.
I ordered a volt meter from china for a couple of quid and noticed some strange behaviour.
Every morning when I turned on the ignition, the voltage was between 12.2-.12.4 volts and when I turned the key to start the car, the voltage stayed at 12.2 - 12.4 until I drove a few miles then it would jump to 14.5 ish for the remainder of the journey. On days when the fault occurred, the voltage would jump to 18+ volts when I started the car or within a mile from the house and it would light up the warning lights like a Christmas tree.
I took the car to a local auto electrician and based on my findings with the volt meter he replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator and guess what... Its fixed. Now when I turn on the ignition it sits at 12.2 and when I start the car it goes to 14.4 within 3 seconds and stays there. No more warning lights and no more voltage spikes.
If anyone is having the same problem, I would recommend the voltage meter and if you see the same spikes, its your voltage regulator for sure.
Many thanks to those who replied.
SUCCESS!!!!
After almost a year of issues, it looks like my problem has been fixed.
I ordered a volt meter from china for a couple of quid and noticed some strange behaviour.
Every morning when I turned on the ignition, the voltage was between 12.2-.12.4 volts and when I turned the key to start the car, the voltage stayed at 12.2 - 12.4 until I drove a few miles then it would jump to 14.5 ish for the remainder of the journey. On days when the fault occurred, the voltage would jump to 18+ volts when I started the car or within a mile from the house and it would light up the warning lights like a Christmas tree.
I took the car to a local auto electrician and based on my findings with the volt meter he replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator and guess what... Its fixed. Now when I turn on the ignition it sits at 12.2 and when I start the car it goes to 14.4 within 3 seconds and stays there. No more warning lights and no more voltage spikes.
If anyone is having the same problem, I would recommend the voltage meter and if you see the same spikes, its your voltage regulator for sure.
Many thanks to those who replied.