GOSTRA

This is my first post on this forum. I joined because I have read a lot of helpful information here so thanks to all participating members out there.

I have completely torn down the N62 motor out of a 2004 545i which had two spun bearings. I purchased the car in this condition knowing I would be in for a battle. I have acquired or ordered all the parts for the rebuild, too many too list here. I have a new crank, all new main and rod bearings, cylinders have been honed/polished (by a 25 year pro who knows the Alusil block), new pistons/rings acquired. I have already replaced valves stem seals, cleaned and lapped valves, cleaned head thoroughly and reassembled the heads. They are ready to go.

All removed parts have been cleaned and inspected and I am about to reassemble the engine. I was hoping some members might be able to pass on any helpful information about this engine, things that I might have overlooked or might overlook since I never rebuilt this particular engine before.

One of my concerns is setting the timing. My father is/has been a professional mechanic for more than 35 years (not an expert on BMWs but can repair anything) and has every tool imaginable in his own shop. If he doesn't have it he will grab some metal and weld something up. Are the timing setting tools actually necessary to set the timing properly or can this be worked around by fashioning some for this purpose? What are the keys when setting the timing? I have read through TIS but they make it sound extremely complicated when it shouldn't be.

I have spent a great deal of time and about $2.5K total for this rebuild and I want it to be right. Any suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated. Any links which may be of help would be greatly appreciated.

I have added some bonus pics taken through this project which may be of interest to some.

Only Bimmers

wow, what a job! This is important to the community because you are pretty much the first that had dug in for a rebuild. I have replaced my Vanos units as a test, this requires setting the timing as well. I can tell you that indeed it is very important to get it perfect. High tolerance engines are unforgiving. Luckily you simply TDC the engine, lock the crank, then use the huge timing jigs to position the cams while counterholding the cams with a opened end wrench and tightening the Vanos center screw. you will need 2 people. You have to use the jig as it holds the cam in place as the cams are under tension all the time int he proper position.

You can rent the toolkit at Bimmer Tool Rental :: Rentals instead of buying as its pretty expensive. Its pretty quick with the right tools as i found out. A pretty neat looking toolkit as well.

Make sure once you tighten the vanos bolts you rotate the whole valvetrain at the crank 2 revolutions and check again. Mine was off on the drivers side and needed a little readjustment. After i reset and rotated a second time and tested, it was dead on all 4 cams.

Just an FYI that the position of the vanos units is not important, they can be installed in any position just as long as the correct unit is on the correct cam. As long as the crank is tdc and the cam is in the proper position with the jig, once you tighten it, then everything is in the right position.

Good luck and keep us updated!

travisbickle

Hmm, interesting... Porkchop connecting rods.

H F

Try contacting Bmwoem1from Bimmerfest. He is a certified master tech Im sure he can help u with all the ins and outs for your rebuild. This is a great thread bro,, Post pics of your progress, and good luck with it.

GOSTRA

OnlyBimmers, after reading your comments I think I now understand why setting the timing seemed mysterious. When I was disassembling the engine, after slackening the timing chain tension I was easily able to slip the chains off the sprockets. At that point it was a simple matter to remove the cams. During reassembly, I will have to slacken the central screws on the adjustment units for both the inlet and outlet camshafts in order to position the cams, then put the chain on the loosened sprockets, then retighten the central screws. So the "timing tools" simply hold the cams in the correct position while you put the chains on, one side at a time. Is that correct? There is a local indy shop here that only repairs BMWs. The owner is a jerk but he loves money, so I can probably rent these tools from him for a couple of hours. If not, I will look into the link you provided. Thank you.

GOSTRA

HF, I am not a member of Bimmerfest. How would I contact "Bmwoem1"?

My main concern here is that I do not want to overlook anything simple, or not replace something inexpensive that should be replaced having never rebuilt this particular motor before. The engine is going back together this week. I will probably begin on Friday.

If anyone is interested, I have a complete list of replacement parts that were purchased which I considered necessary.

SlvrBmr545

Just become a member over there . It is a good site as well and you will see many of the same faces. Good luck and you are doing a hell of a job !! may the force be with you !!

H F

Http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/register.php Here is the site just join . u can post right away . Also u can pm him .. It will be a good move cause these engines are very complicated , u wana make sure all bases are covered and cant afford to miss anything or make any mistakes that can ruin your build.

There is a couple things I may suggest not sure if u know about, but there is a rear coolant passage cover gasket behind the flywheel u should change. Also the valley coolant pipe stay away from the factory one. The after market ones ( all German pipe and Bimmer pipe) are better choices. Also think about changing the alternator bracket to a oil cooler connecting braket and install a factory oil cooler and hoses.Since u have gone this far it would be good idea to install one. Because that is an issue with the 545 it,s missing a oil cooler, runs hot and hard on gaskets.