Pitster

So taking this bolt off I welded up a tool that allowed me to put an 8' piece of strut on the outer hub to bolt down and hold while I took my 150 ft lb capacity torque wrench to remove it....It came off, but the torque wrench didn't survive. I was leaning on that thing HARD.

So I'm doing the assembly this weekend and due to bolt stretch, BMW wants you to use a new bolt (like with others), but when I look up the "11 23 2AZ" torque settings for the N62, it specs out 100Nm. This is about 74 ft lbs....which from what it took to remove makes me question if that is correct. The actual bulletin shows the following:

"N62 / N62TU / N73 M18 x 1,5 Replace the bolt
Lubricate abutment head
Torque 100 Nm
tightening angle 60A
tightening angle 60A
tightening angle 60A"

Alternatively, different engines have MUCH different torques in the same bulletin as follows:

M20 / M21 / M50 / M52 / M52TU / S50US / S52 / M54 / M56 M18 x 1,5 Replace the screws 410 Nm


Question is...Is 100Nm is legit? Anyone had experience with this?

Thanks in advance...

audiophool

I believe what they're saying is you tighten it to 100Nm, then an additional angle of 60 degrees. If you're copy/pasting verbatim, it appears they want you to do the 60 degrees three times after initial torque. This said, don't take my word for it - just speculating based on the info provided.

The purpose of torque specifications is to load the bolt into its elastic state. Initial torque to seat the assembly followed by added angles is a more accurate method as it allows the load to be applied irrespective of any friction that may be present after the lubrication is squeezed out and the threads are running metal on metal.

Again, don't take my word for it.

Pitster

It is verbatim...I can see turning it 60 degrees once. But this I guess means three (3) separate times.

audiophool

In all probability, yes. I'd find other confirmation before doing it though.

loco 1

Hey did anybody have a good list of Bolts Torque on an N62 engine, need the torque specs for the intake manifold, valve covers, timing chain and sprockets, oil pant upper and lower pant.

audiophool

Buy a Bentley manual. It's chock-full of good info like torque specs.

cmyachtie

This TIS Link should also give you what you need
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...als/11-engine/

loco 1

Thank you!!!, I read the forum question maybe you could help me understand. How cant I tell what type of tread I have the torque said M6 or M& for example N62 Cam cap torque: Cam CAP Tread Torque
M6 10 NM
M7 14NM
M7.8.8 15NM
M8 20NM
Any suggestion?

cmyachtie

Google is your friend.... search for metric thread size chart and the like you’ll get lots of hits like this,

https://images.app.goo.gl/xT4kwLGWM7uwHDQ8A

Pitster

I pulled out my N62 engine ('05 545i) because an chain tensioner let go allowing the chain to skip off of bank 2, still rotating, literally sawing into the head shooting metal EVERYWHERE....toast. Got a boneyard motor with 95K miles, tore it down, rebuilt it will all new seals/gaskets and did the valve stem seals (which is easy when out of the car). When tightening all of that stuff down...and I mean EVERYTHING from oil pan bolts, head bolts, JESUS bolt, front engine cover bolts, water pump bolts, etc. I used the specs from the Bentley manual, made copies, and posted them over the engine bay and above my workbench. There are some assumptions you have to make as the specs I got made blanket statements about specific sizes being all one torque spec. Knock on wood, it's been about 2 years and she runs like a mofo, no leaks, no issues... thing barely breathes at 100 mph on the highway and feels like your doing 30 in any of my other vehicles.