udfxrookie

The guide did break (the top one that the vanos actually goes through, I replaced that with everything else. I replaced BOTH gears when the first attempt stated VANOS mechanism. I replaced the carrier bolts (16mm camshaft bolts).
I'm STUMPED, all I can do now is hope someone else has advice or do the leak down and see if I hear air from intake or exhaust side when the cylinder I'm testing is at TDC. =(

udfxrookie

so nothing worked.... I even tried a new head from a local guy that was building it up so it had new valves, new cams, cam ledges... put the new cam gear mechanisms on, checked piston tops for any scaring and nothing....
used endoscope to check tdc... reset timing and again...2A9A Inlet camshaft synch....
at this point I'm about to rebuild the timing on this and check the rod bearings and do those while in there...
aside from new timing chain/ oil chain, sprocket, crankshaft hub, bolts and orings... anything else I should/need to replace
(and do you think this would even resolve my issue or just be dumping $500 down the shitter?)

seanjordan20

Did you check the camshaft sensor and the wiring. I would also check the crankshaft sensor. You've done everything else but check module. I don't think you need to do the other stuff. Did you check the compression

udfxrookie

I did check the sensors and wiring, even have two new cam sensors.... I remember replacing the crankshaft sensor when I did the seals when I first got the car about a year ago with a FCP oem one. Is it okay to do a compression test with it out of timing. The leak down tester I got was a POS so I returned it and have to order one thats actually worth a damn

Dj530

That code 3100 and 2A7A are awesome, it means that the sensors are doing their jobs. No boost because your timing is out. If you set initial tension on the chain properly before you tightened the sprocket bolts, then at this point, I would be checking to make sure the oiling system for the sprockets are unrestricted, clean the vanos galleries . . . . .

udfxrookie

Okay... after waiting on parts and time... I put in the new Vanos and she ran great for 20 miles then threw a code for the intake cam.... not gonna lie I was a tart and used the previously "new" collar bolts... so the new collar bolts are in.... 20Nm + 90deg + 90deg
started her up and no codes yet and here's the inpa Vanos screen shots

Just starting

idling for 2 minutes or so

Do those look good?

udfxrookie

Certainly wasn't good... Kinda went back to getting the same numbers on intake then waaaaay off and intake vanos cold start code. Wth could be the issue?!? It has to be Vanos related.... Maybe the chain is stretched? Timing tensioner bolt not working properly... Anyone, this is just nuts now

udfxrookie

This is turning into my "fix it" diary lol.... so for giggles I swapped Vanos connectors... knowing the wrap around intake side goes to the bottom.... car ran like crap for a minute or two with no codes... shut it off.... put the vanos connectors where they belong and WHAM.... Vanos timing is on sync and car's running great. Idled it... revved it, went for a mini drive all good. Next morning took it to Home Depot about 2 miles away and home... all good.
Get ready to go to breakfast with the kids and Vanos Intake Code GRRRRRRR.... so I ordered a new Timing Tensioner bolt as it seems to lose timing and get it right back so maybe the tensioner isn't working properly... after this only thought could be the chain is stretched.... what I'm NOT wanting to do is continue "guessing", anyone have experience in this area and have a fix?

seanjordan20

I've been reading and it seems you have thought of everything but opening it back up and checking the tension. It seems like everything is working correctly except for tension. Did you look at the vanos adjustment before and after the drive? That would give you a good indication if your chain is coming loose.

udfxrookie

Pushing 140 miles with no codes or issues.... It was seriously the timing belt tensioner bolt.... Smh