FormerE30Owner

That's the way it is with sensors - intermittent and random. I hope that that is all your problem was.

KyleB

Welcome to the world of German electronics; they think they do them a lot better than they actually do them.

Ocelot13

Went into town... Over heat on and off and bunch of times... Then stayed off. Temp on the hidden menu stayed around 95°C, so about the same as what my Obd scanner was saying. Got home, checked errors with Inpa, 2e82 under dme.
Bad pump?
Edit: it was a fresh error because I cleared all the errors the other day

seanjordan20

I hope they gave you a good warranty. Should of been at least 12k 12 months. Go back and request it to be switched out with an OE pump. I'm sure they gave you a cheap aftermarket pump and charged you premium $$. Also make sure you get the manufacturer name before you take it back to see the reviews and cost of it so you know what you are talking about when you get there and tear them a new one. I am the type that do not stand for cheap replacements especially if I am being charged premium $$$. Also request to get the Themo changed if it is not a quality thermo. Request the actual part number that was put in. You are going through something you should not be going through after 3 months.

Ocelot13

Well, more to add. I live in Central PA, work in Ohio (Ohio, wv border near Wheeling). Well, it's about a 4 hour drive, 250 miles. Drove about an hour, zero issues. Drove another 3, no issues. Highest I saw the temp was 102 C sitting at a red light at the end of the drive while it was 85 F outside. Driving, temp stayed between 90 C - 99 C. Overheat message never came on during the drive. I'm lost at what it could be...idk if I should just order a new Piersburg water pump or what

seanjordan20

I found the below. Maybe this can help you troubleshoot or clear some things up.


SI B12 04 05
Engine Electrical Systems October 2008
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B12 04 05 July 2007.

[NEW] designates changes to this revision

SUBJECT
Check Engine Lamp Illuminated and/or Vehicle Overheats MODEL
[NEW] E83 (X3) with N52K engine
[NEW] E85 and E86 (Z4) with N52 engine

[NEW] E70 (X5) with N52K engine

[NEW] E90, E91, E92 and E93 (3 Series) with N51, N52 and N52K engines

[NEW] E60 and E61 (5 Series) with N52 and N52K engine

[NEW] All models above produced up to December 31st, 2006

SITUATION
The customer complains that the Check Engine lamp is illuminated and/or that the vehicle overheated. One or more of the following fault codes is stored in the DME:
FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance

FC 2E82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current

FC 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run

FC 2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication

FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump

CAUSE
One of the following can be the cause:
- Insufficient power supply
- Insufficient grounding
- BSD signal not present
- Defective electric coolant water pump
- Electric coolant pump water pump processor disturbance
PROCEDURE A
This procedure only applies to vehicles produced after September 1, 2005. Both faults must be stored; if any other combination of the faults is stored, refer to procedure B. - FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance
- FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump
1. Remove both battery cables from the battery for 15 minutes .
2. After reconnecting the battery cables, clear the vehicle fault memory and ensure that the electric coolant pump operates using the bleeding procedure, described at the end of this bulletin.
PROCEDURE B
This procedure applies to all vehicles with any combination of faults listed below.
FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance

FC 2E82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current

FC 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run

FC 2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication

FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump

NOTE: All measurements should be performed with the battery charger connected to the vehicle. 1. Measure the following at connector X6035 on the electric coolant water pump: - E90 and E91 - Pin 1 (fuse F09) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- E60 and E61 - Pin 1 (fuse F23 and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- Pin 2 (fuse F02) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- Pin 3 BSD signal (DME Pin 26) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 7.5 - 8.5 volts - If any of the above measurements are incorrect, continue troubleshooting using the DIS Plus or GT1 to determine the source of the problem.
- If all of the above measurements are correct, proceed to step 2.


2. Replace the electric coolant water pump (PN 11 51 7 546 994) in accordance with Repair Instruction RA 11 51 000.
3. After performing any service work requiring draining of the coolant, the system must be bled to ensure that there are no air pockets present. The system can be bled using the DISplus/GT-1 or by following a special procedure. To bleed the system, follow the procedure described at the end of this bulletin.

BLEEDING (VENTING) THE COOLING SYSTEM

NOTE: BMW recommends filling the cooling system for protection against freezing down to -34 degrees F (-37 degrees C) ; this is an antifreeze ratio of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. In severely cold areas, the antifreeze can be increased to 60%, which provides freezing protection down to -62 degrees F (-52 degrees C) . Do not exceed a 60% ratio of antifreeze.
The specified antifreeze ratio is important, since an insufficient amount would impair antifreezing and corrosion-inhibiting protection. An excessive amount would not improve freezing protection, but would instead reduce freezing protection. At all times, the antifreeze and water should be premixed before pouring into the engine. If premixing is not performed, damage will occur to the water pump assembly.

NOTE: Always connect a battery charger while performing the bleeding process. 1. Fill the system with coolant via the expansion tank (AG. Top up the coolant level to the lower edge of the expansion tank.
2. Close the expansion tank.
3. Switch on the ignition.
4. Set heating to the maximum (temperature); switch on the blower (lowest stage).
5. Press the accelerator pedal module to the floor for at least 10 seconds . The engine must NOT be started.
6. Bleeding via EWP takes approximately 12 minutes . Then check the coolant level in the expansion tank; top up to the MAX marking if necessary.
7. Check the cooling circuit and drain the plugs for leaks.
8. If the procedure needs to be repeated several times, allow the DME to completely de-energize (remove the ignition key for approx. 3 minutes ) and then repeat the procedure, starting from item 3.


Read more: scanned a 2006 525xi and codes 2ef5,2e81,2a82,2e82 present have - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/bmw/2ds7s-...#ixzz1bSPt36Zs

Ocelot13

Just to be safe, I replaced the water pump and thermostat today with a Piersburg pump. Old pump was a remanufactured dorman, the impeller could move in and out. Took me about 6 hours. All the video diys make it look so easy, but it's not an Xi. I fought with the pump discharge side hose clamp for a good 45 minutes.

seanjordan20

Reman dorman? Well I know the problem is fixed now. Lol. Always OE for parts that matter. I hope your issue is fixed.

Ocelot13

Well. It last two weeks, drove from Central PA to Steubenville ohio, around there a few times and back home with no messages. Got home, drove about 40 minutes away then started getting the random overheat messages again. The sensor in the head was replaced before the water pump, a Piersburg pump was put in with a new thermostat and housing, BMW coolant diluted 50/50 with distilled water....I'm at a lost at what is causing this.

seanjordan20

Do you know what codes it left this time? Never seen this issue before. I would start checking battery level and age at this point. After you get the codes please post. If you're getting the same code then it has to be a power issue somewhere. Did you clean the connectors before plugging back in?