drjochen

So, yesterday, I did on attempt to accelerate with my car by holding the rpms around 5000 and then let the clutch come (nothing special, have done this with other cars many times).
I do it once and there is the incredible stink in the car from the clutch. So I didn't try again.
After I pull im my garage, it stings like hell. This morning, I get the car back out and in 1st gear when I start driving, the drivetyrain shudders (not in any other gear).
The shuddering went away and everything feels normal, but I just got back from work and the car stinks again! It looks like the clutch is slipping all the time.
What is going on? I did one single start... Now, I have the CDV removed, could this have anything to do with it?
I don't wanna go to the dealer right now, since there is another CDV in there....

fraseman999

I did this in my old e39. Switched the asc off and floored it. Smell comes from the clutch burning. My clutch never recovered, yes it goes away but when you are maybe doing clutch control on a hill or you pull away quickly the smell will come back. My clutch lasted a few more weeks then it had to be changed.
Some cars like the ferrari enzo are only good for one burnout.

nickolas_g

Perhaps you should have learned how to drive a manual first.

drjochen

Well, I just love people that can give constructive help.............
Btw. , I have driven manuals since 1985 and raced them for over 10 years in hillclimbs.

Anybody else with useful ideas?

EBMCS03

Yikes! Really? I wouldnt think the clutch is that weak... I mean look at SMG... couple have launched it like several times and one person I can recall 20+ times and their clutch is still working... abit it is SMG... and it does do it properly for "maximum" acceleration... but it sure seems like its basically dumping the clutch at about 4K.

EBMCS03

I'm wondering if you weaken the joints thats physically holding the clutch plate together... so now the clutch isnt "straight" anymore... you know like a loosen weld or bolt...

AP Sales

I have the same car, also with CDV removed. I can't believe your action caused the problem. There just isn't enough torque in the motor to burn out a clutch, IMO.

dlevi67

You have a burned clutch plate and one or more broken/loose retainer screws/rivets in the clutch assembly (aluminium screws?).

See this diagram.

One of the reasons the CDV is in there is precisely to prevent this type of occurrence (all the gumph about it being so that clutch use is smoother is - as we know - gumph), since there seems to be no springing in the clutch assembly to absorb abnormal shocks. Which indicates that BMW knows it has an inherently fragile part, but having replaced the CDV you have little recourse. Unless you kept the old one and re-fit it...

[Why on Earth do you think that accelerating to 5000rpm and dumping the clutch is useful in an engine that has peak torque at 2500 rpm? As an ex racer you should know that. As you should know that racing clutch plates are not the same (material and durability) as road ones. But this is by the by]

Re: SMG. First of all, it's a different clutch plate. Secondly, the controller probably doesn't quite dump it the way you can dump it with a totally manual control + no CDV

nickolas_g

djrochen,

Sorry I could not help myself. Anyone that spends time here especially yourself I am sure knows how to drive.

Just givin you some ribbin'

drjochen

...I know...