Killaduce

H

Hi,

So apart from the engine overheating issue I was facing for a few weeks.. I decided to go take the car back from my local Indy since I’ll have to wait to get the OEM water pump(if that’s even the case with my overheating).. but the other day I decided to top up on coolant.. half of a normal water bottle in water and the other half coolant.. soon as I started the car I noticed the “rough-ness” and ran pro-tools on the car, it was reading the following error codes:

• 29CD: combustion misfires, cylinder 1
• 29D2: combustion misfires, cylinder 6
• 29D9: misfire at low tank fill level
• 29CC: combustion misfires, several cylinders
• 2B2C: Fuel high pressure, plausibility, cold start

I think cylinder 4 was also misfiring.. so I swapped out the coils for 1, 4 & 6 with a few used coils I had from a different 535 I had for parts.. the only error code that stayed and would come back right away, was for cylinder 6’s misfire..



Ok so I will attach a picture of the coil that was used in cyl 6 and how it looked.. then, I went and put 20$ in gas but decided to put 94 octane from Petro-Canada (don’t ask why, I normally always put 91.. not sure if it even matters with this but I read someone say they had exact problems as me, and went as far as blaming the fact they used Petro-Canada’s 94 octane gas and that was their problem apparently..?).. and what are the odds that my problems matched that person’s problems, and the one time I put oct 94 too? then I noticed a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust while I drove two mins down the road.. so this is where I noticed Cyl 6 was still misfiring when I ran pro tools again.. stopped and swapped out the coil again with a diff one i had.. but even after resetting the codes it instantly gets picked back up (cyl 6 misfire) and then I noticed a little small leak of gas from the exhaust and then I drove home (which is only a minute down the road) and this whole time I noticed the gas tank go from 125km in range, to only 30km in range, in the two minutes that I drove.. literally.. but once I turned the car off at home, it wouldn’t turn back on anymore.. tried unplugging the IBS and even went and replaced the battery for a brand new one but no luck.. it cranks but won’t start.. then I noticed the car was showing dashes for the gas so it was completely empty on gas too.. so I grabbed a tank and put ten bucks in it and topped up that gas in the car too and still no luck?



Now my bro(who owned the car before me, said he had a very similar problem before and it was due to injectors 1,2 & 5 and it was apparently leaking gas into the cylinders or whatever..?) so he changed those injectors and kinda makes sense that 4 and 6 weren’t replaced and those gave off error codes, with cyl 6 misfire coming back on right away after I cleared the codes.. any insight on my issues would be really helpful.. I really f***ing hope(excuse my language lol just extremely frustrated) that it’s not the fuel pump needed to be replaced, especially since I prob still gotta replace the water pump.. even though the water pump’s error code I would get ONLY after the second iDrive warning for overheating would come on(which #1 warning being the yellow one warning to drive moderately, and #2 would be the red warning where u basically lose all power) and only then, I’d get error code 2E83 - electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation..



Other error codes I got at random times with the overheating issue:



2C39 - oxygen sensor before catalytic convertor; Dynamics

2F83 - Engine switch-off time, instrument cluster timer - DME timer, comparison

2F81 - Engine switch-off time, instrument cluster timer - DME timer, comparison

29F5 - catalytic-converter conversion 2

29F4 - catalytic-converter conversion

2A7C - variable camshaft timing control, intake, cold start

3100 - boost-pressure control, deactivation



And ALSO (smfhhhh) before all these problems.. I got these error codes every now and then (but used to use iCarly for scanning and coding back then so might be a b it diff than Pro Tools)



2A7C - VAnoS, intake, cold start

9C6C - 12V stepper motor / reference switch / 12V supply peripherals / Nozzle heating / Monitor AUC supply / Reserve 4 / Current sense for AUC supply / heating / 12V output peripheral / steering column adjustment motor

With protocols the same error code is:

9C6C - washer nozzle heating



9C55 - PTC heaters / Fresh air damper motor / Fogging sensor / Fresh air motor

2F83 - Engine shut-down time, time counter combi - time counter DME, comparison

With protools the same error code is:

9C55 - fogging sensor



Then I’ve always had

54C6 - oil wear (this is for the dif oil if I’m not mistaken)



So that’s everything.. sorry for the book I had to write/length of my post I only said all of this to break it all down for you guys, in hopes of having my main issues I’m stuck with right now, resolved by having some1 with more of a brain than myself, shed some light on what my problems are



Thank u so much for ur time, and again, I’m really sorry for such a long and boring post if any1 has any idea(S) for me on where to start plz, it would be greatly appreciated I only got the car like a month and a half ago from my brother, and have had nonstop problems from the day I got it lol 260-270k km’s on it lol engine was replaced at about 140clicks

donpb

Please leave the car alone and wait until the OEM Water Pump gets installed.

Killaduce

lmao u sound just like my brother smh 🤦‍♂️
I haven’t drove the car in over two weeks can u understand or relate to that feeling lmao? But what’s the water pump gotta do with the injector/misfiring :/?

donpb

Take it one step at a time. Fix one problem, before moving to the next.

The injector misfire codes could be red herrings.

Killaduce

what happens if it wasn’t even the water pump that was my main issue though smh? The only error code for the pump that I even got, was “...power-reduced operation” whereas everyone else with water pump problems, reported several error codes but at least one of them was a direct “water pump failure” type of code

anyways I am a rookie to this shir.. and sadly, all my issues began after I started messing around with trying to code stuff in the car lol maybe all my sh*t started from that too

thanks for ur advice though

seanjordan20

So you started coding and everything start messing up? Did you know what you were doing while coding (following instructions form somewhere)? Just factory code the car and start over if you think it has to do with an error in coding.

Killaduce

the thing is.. I tried to factory restore as much as I could.. but the issue was my back ups were on a phone I no longer can use but most my coding to modules, I managed to find the back ups for.. it’s the VO I think that could be causing issues if it’s related to anything like that I was accidentally unchecking boxes in my VO while doing something else.. and stupid a** me never backed up my VO:/ I think Inpa or ista should have original/OEM VO’s am I right? I just deleted ista + though to switch over to INPA-P since ista wouldn’t allow me to update or code anything and kept saying switch to P