jack stands and tension struts
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 209
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From: SF Bay Area
My Ride: 2005 545i Sport 6 speed Manual
have a 2005 545i with sport package, 50k miles.
just went and got new front tires, as always the guys at the tire shop always find something wrong with my cars. looks like the front control arms are shot, i think bmw calls them tension struts. it is item # 11 in realoem.com
they showed me how the entire wheel assy shifted fore and aft when the brakes are rapidly applied.
i can fix about anything and have no fear about replacing these parts...but here is the real stupid question i am asking......how the heck do i put jack stands under this car. i can use the rubber jack points and a floor jack but where to put the stands. i never get under a car with just a jack. that is putting way too much faith in one oring in on hydraulic cylinder.
i didn't see any points under the car that look strong enough for the stands without causing damage to the car.
also think its sad that a car of this caliber needs new suspension components with only 50k miles.
recommendations for better aftermarket parts would also be appreciated.
thanks.
just went and got new front tires, as always the guys at the tire shop always find something wrong with my cars. looks like the front control arms are shot, i think bmw calls them tension struts. it is item # 11 in realoem.com
they showed me how the entire wheel assy shifted fore and aft when the brakes are rapidly applied.
i can fix about anything and have no fear about replacing these parts...but here is the real stupid question i am asking......how the heck do i put jack stands under this car. i can use the rubber jack points and a floor jack but where to put the stands. i never get under a car with just a jack. that is putting way too much faith in one oring in on hydraulic cylinder.
i didn't see any points under the car that look strong enough for the stands without causing damage to the car.
also think its sad that a car of this caliber needs new suspension components with only 50k miles.
recommendations for better aftermarket parts would also be appreciated.
thanks.
There's a mounting pad in the center almost under the engine to jack the car up, then there's 2 points just in front of the front doors ..look for the arrows. In diy section there's 4 threads min on this issue for replacing
Sorry man its rubber or rubber. You can do bushings or total arm replacement
Fcp groton .com
Sorry man its rubber or rubber. You can do bushings or total arm replacement
Fcp groton .com
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 551
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From: Long Island, NY
My Ride: 2005 E60 545i Manual, Sport, L7
Model Year: 2005
I have same car with 95K and I am the 3rd owner but I do not have suspension issues like yours. Are you Racing with your car on the track?
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Members
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 209
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From: SF Bay Area
My Ride: 2005 545i Sport 6 speed Manual
no racing but i do live in a VERY curvy place.
i got under the car this weekend and did visual and prybar inspections. i don't see anything wrong at all, no cracked rubber or loose joints. the car has no symptoms of control arm /tension strut failure, drives straight, no noises, no wandering under hard braking.
the tension strut bushing is rubber mounted after all. therefore there must be some deflection when the brakes are stabbed. if the designers wanted no deflection i think they would not have used rubber.
i think the tireshop guys are just trying to upsell me as they always do. i overreacted to their BS claims before i got under the car and found out for myself that there does not appear to be anything wrong.
i got under the car this weekend and did visual and prybar inspections. i don't see anything wrong at all, no cracked rubber or loose joints. the car has no symptoms of control arm /tension strut failure, drives straight, no noises, no wandering under hard braking.
the tension strut bushing is rubber mounted after all. therefore there must be some deflection when the brakes are stabbed. if the designers wanted no deflection i think they would not have used rubber.
i think the tireshop guys are just trying to upsell me as they always do. i overreacted to their BS claims before i got under the car and found out for myself that there does not appear to be anything wrong.
also to remove those tension struts you will need to disconnect axle from the strut and move it down, kind slide on strut tube, because ball joint nut is pointing down on ground. It's enough space to remove ball joint.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 10,496
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
My Ride: 2008 550I LOADED, all options except HUD and NV
On RWD cars there is no axle in the front, there is a spindle. When doing one control arm at a time (wisest), you have one ball joint nut that points down and the other points up. Then there is a fairly large bolt that holds the other end of the control arm in place. Other than removing the wheels there is no reason to remove anything other than the control arms to replace them.
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