I HATE getting told NO!
#22
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Originally Posted by NextLevel530xi' post='694839' date='Oct 16 2008, 12:46 PM
You the only one with a YES.
No, bashing on me ?
It'll come later.
Youthink you can get people to chim in on how the setup would work?? I already have x2 12" boston acoustic subs runnging. So I know nothing is impossble.
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Alright, I actually did all the work on my audio myself and you can check out my sig for everything thats there.
I fitst made a custom dash kit for the double din radio. I had to relocate the factory radio as the I-Drive will not work if its unplugged. (not sure if there is a way around that). I then ran all new wires to all speakers and it all works perfectly fine. and there are several people on here that have heard my system and can vouch for me.
Of course it is not as easy to do as i'm making it sound. But it is definately doable.
#23
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Hmmm... my best advice would to be to try and find another dyno shop
This type of thing is done all the time.
Here is a dyno diy from n54tech.com regarding dyno'ing a steptronic equipped BMW...
DIY: How to dyno your car
Hey guys,
I figured it would be a good idea to post up a dyno DIY. This is for purposes of measuring the performance of modifications, not for doing actual tuning.
Ahead of time:
1) The brand of dyno matters. They all read (and work) differently so if you want to compare numbers with others find an actual Dynojet dyno.
2) If possible do a baseline dyno before your modifications so you can measure the power increase. For those of you using an off brand dyno, failure to perform this step will result in numbers that are impossible to analyze. If you can't do a before dyno and you're not using a Dynojet, don't waste your money or time.
3) Make sure the car is fully adapted to your modifications before you go. If you just added race gas, floor the car a few times so it can adapt to the higher octane.
4) Bring along a USB flash drive to take home your runs.
5) The better the fans, the higher the dyno numbers. Make sure the dyno shop you use has adequate fans and ventilation.
6) The N54 always dynos better in colder weather, despite correction factors. Take this in to consideration when picking a day to dyno and when comparing numbers with others. Corrected runs in 50 degree temps will generally result in higher numbers than those in 100 degree temps, all else being equal. So if you want to improve your chances for a dyno record, go on a cold day. Just be prepared for skeptics to complain about your optimal weather.
7) Correction factors do not properly take in to account altitude. If you live in a high altitude area, do not try to compare your corrected numbers to others at sea level. Try to find a dyno close to sea level.
Once you arrive:
1) To connect the RPM pickup use an allen wrench to loosen and lift the plastic engine cover. The tach pickup connects to the wire bundle going to a coil pack. If the dyno operator can't get a signal, just move to another bundle under there until you find one that works.
2) Measure air/fuel ratios from the right tailpipe. This avoids confusion if your factory exhaust flapper is not disabled. As a side note, ignore the dyno operator when he freaks out about how lean your air/fuel ratios are. The N54 is a direct injection motor and typically runs 14.5:1 air/fuel ratios in the midrange stock. Also ignore the power/torque dip around 4000rpm, it is a cam timing event.
3) Disable the traction control system.
3a) For manual transmissions: Do all runs in 4th gear from 2000rpm to 7000rpm.
3b) For automatic transmissions: This is very confusing and likely your dyno operator will not be smart enough to do this, so don?t be afraid to operate the car on the dyno yourself.
Shift the car in to 4th gear in sport mode, bring the RPMs up to around 1800-2200, and then floor the car to right before the kick down switch. If you floor it all the way, the car will downshift and screw up your run. If this happens abort the run and try again. The kick down is a small button at the end of the gas pedal travel and you can practice with the car off, or on the way to the dynoshop.
4) When analyzing your runs, move the correction factor to STD, and the smoothing to 5. The early 335i tuning gods decided this was the appropriate factor for the N54 so using the more appropriate SAE factor will likely result in your disappointment.
5) Copy your .DRF run files to your USB drive to take home. You can download Dynojet winpep software online free of change to create graphs, combine runs on to one chart, change correction algorithms, and analyze your runs.
![Smile](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/smile.gif)
Here is a dyno diy from n54tech.com regarding dyno'ing a steptronic equipped BMW...
DIY: How to dyno your car
Hey guys,
I figured it would be a good idea to post up a dyno DIY. This is for purposes of measuring the performance of modifications, not for doing actual tuning.
Ahead of time:
1) The brand of dyno matters. They all read (and work) differently so if you want to compare numbers with others find an actual Dynojet dyno.
2) If possible do a baseline dyno before your modifications so you can measure the power increase. For those of you using an off brand dyno, failure to perform this step will result in numbers that are impossible to analyze. If you can't do a before dyno and you're not using a Dynojet, don't waste your money or time.
3) Make sure the car is fully adapted to your modifications before you go. If you just added race gas, floor the car a few times so it can adapt to the higher octane.
4) Bring along a USB flash drive to take home your runs.
5) The better the fans, the higher the dyno numbers. Make sure the dyno shop you use has adequate fans and ventilation.
6) The N54 always dynos better in colder weather, despite correction factors. Take this in to consideration when picking a day to dyno and when comparing numbers with others. Corrected runs in 50 degree temps will generally result in higher numbers than those in 100 degree temps, all else being equal. So if you want to improve your chances for a dyno record, go on a cold day. Just be prepared for skeptics to complain about your optimal weather.
7) Correction factors do not properly take in to account altitude. If you live in a high altitude area, do not try to compare your corrected numbers to others at sea level. Try to find a dyno close to sea level.
Once you arrive:
1) To connect the RPM pickup use an allen wrench to loosen and lift the plastic engine cover. The tach pickup connects to the wire bundle going to a coil pack. If the dyno operator can't get a signal, just move to another bundle under there until you find one that works.
2) Measure air/fuel ratios from the right tailpipe. This avoids confusion if your factory exhaust flapper is not disabled. As a side note, ignore the dyno operator when he freaks out about how lean your air/fuel ratios are. The N54 is a direct injection motor and typically runs 14.5:1 air/fuel ratios in the midrange stock. Also ignore the power/torque dip around 4000rpm, it is a cam timing event.
3) Disable the traction control system.
3a) For manual transmissions: Do all runs in 4th gear from 2000rpm to 7000rpm.
3b) For automatic transmissions: This is very confusing and likely your dyno operator will not be smart enough to do this, so don?t be afraid to operate the car on the dyno yourself.
Shift the car in to 4th gear in sport mode, bring the RPMs up to around 1800-2200, and then floor the car to right before the kick down switch. If you floor it all the way, the car will downshift and screw up your run. If this happens abort the run and try again. The kick down is a small button at the end of the gas pedal travel and you can practice with the car off, or on the way to the dynoshop.
4) When analyzing your runs, move the correction factor to STD, and the smoothing to 5. The early 335i tuning gods decided this was the appropriate factor for the N54 so using the more appropriate SAE factor will likely result in your disappointment.
5) Copy your .DRF run files to your USB drive to take home. You can download Dynojet winpep software online free of change to create graphs, combine runs on to one chart, change correction algorithms, and analyze your runs.
Originally Posted by NextLevel530xi' post='694813' date='Oct 16 2008, 12:20 PM
Thanx for explaing it to me.
I called in this morning to make an appointment for the dyno, and as expected I was told that even that process (rolling from fourth) would not work. I was told that I would be wasting my money and he wouldnt mind making me an appointment as long as I understand that he states I wont get what I want. What do I do?
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#24
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Hey, Thanx for all that info. I hope that i can remeber it all.
I'm just a lil worried because I have never dynod my car and dont know what to expect. Anywho.... hope the guy is willing to help me out rather than be quick to say "I told you so". Again I really appreciate you taking the time for all that info bud. You answered all my questions
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#25
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Originally Posted by NextLevel530xi' post='694813' date='Oct 16 2008, 12:20 PM
Thanx for explaing it to me.
I called in this morning to make an appointment for the dyno, and as expected I was told that even that process (rolling from fourth) would not work. I was told that I would be wasting my money and he wouldnt mind making me an appointment as long as I understand that he states I wont get what I want. What do I do?
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Originally Posted by Eugene134' post='694857' date='Oct 16 2008, 01:01 PM
Alright, I actually did all the work on my audio myself and you can check out my sig for everything thats there.
I fitst made a custom dash kit for the double din radio. I had to relocate the factory radio as the I-Drive will not work if its unplugged. (not sure if there is a way around that). I then ran all new wires to all speakers and it all works perfectly fine. and there are several people on here that have heard my system and can vouch for me.
Of course it is not as easy to do as i'm making it sound. But it is definately doable.
I fitst made a custom dash kit for the double din radio. I had to relocate the factory radio as the I-Drive will not work if its unplugged. (not sure if there is a way around that). I then ran all new wires to all speakers and it all works perfectly fine. and there are several people on here that have heard my system and can vouch for me.
Of course it is not as easy to do as i'm making it sound. But it is definately doable.
#27
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No problem
My only fear is that since he keeps telling you it won't work ...that he doesn't really even bother to try and help you get it done correctly. If you could find another dyno place that might be more willing to help you it might be better.
I think it would be great if you could get those runs in. I know there are a bunch of guys that are interested in seeing back to back stock and afe intakes. Just make sure that if you do get to do it that they have a nice fan setup to simulate driving at speed/real world so you can get some optimal testing.
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I think it would be great if you could get those runs in. I know there are a bunch of guys that are interested in seeing back to back stock and afe intakes. Just make sure that if you do get to do it that they have a nice fan setup to simulate driving at speed/real world so you can get some optimal testing.
Originally Posted by NextLevel530xi' post='695146' date='Oct 16 2008, 07:08 PM
Hey, Thanx for all that info. I hope that i can remeber it all.
I'm just a lil worried because I have never dynod my car and dont know what to expect. Anywho.... hope the guy is willing to help me out rather than be quick to say "I told you so". Again I really appreciate you taking the time for all that info bud. You answered all my questions
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#28
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Originally Posted by NextLevel530xi' post='694839' date='Oct 16 2008, 09:46 AM
You the only one with a YES.
No, bashing on me ?
It'll come later.
Youthink you can get people to chim in on how the setup would work?? I already have x2 12" boston acoustic subs runnging. So I know nothing is impossble.
![Confused](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Confused](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Laughing](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/laughing.gif)
![Laughing](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/laughing.gif)
Here you go: BSW E60 Audio Upgrade
Good luck!
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#29
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Originally Posted by alexf9496' post='695850' date='Oct 17 2008, 04:53 PM
Here's another YES (to make up for the 3 NO's I sent you earlier
). BSW has a drop in audio upgrade that they are close to finishing. "Close" is relative, since they've been in development for a while now, but I spoke with them recently, and they assured me that close means close.
Here you go: BSW E60 Audio Upgrade
Good luck!![Thumbsup](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/thumbsup.gif)
![Laughing](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/laughing.gif)
Here you go: BSW E60 Audio Upgrade
Good luck!
![Thumbsup](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/thumbsup.gif)
![Thumbsup](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/thumbsup.gif)
#30
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The speakers are not connected via fiber but pure old fashioned copper. You can add a DVD flip screen or a cdc if you want but unless your OK for the CDC to be pure analogue via the AUX-IN then the only solution is the OEM CDC retrofit. Search the forums because there are a lot of people who have added the extra screens in the dash.