e60.teamegypt.4

I have an 04 530i with a manny tranny and i have no idea how to know when my clutch will need replacing... The other day i went to peel out from a stop sign when no one was around so i had the rpms at around 5000 when i let the clutch out a little to start rolling forward and then i dumped it thinking the wheels would spin but the engine stayed reving and nothing happened almost as it would if the clutch was still in except it wasnt, a few seconds after dropping the clutch the wheels finally recieved the power and started to move. this incident was also followed by a burning smell... any advice is appreciated

pjinca

maybe doing burnouts is killing your clutch and gearbox, it usually does. This thread is like someone ramming their car into a wall and asking if it will buff out afterward.

toyota2bmw

LMAO!!!
Your clutch is shot. Your engine is failing to engage with the tranny thus no power is being transferred to the rear wheels. For some reason, I am picturing a gear box with a bunch of smooth rings in burnt oil instead of toothed gears.

e60.teamegypt.4

hahahaha ok then, well thanks for the input but i also realize im sixteen and i will drive like a sixteen year old no matter what car i have, granted my car i bought at 97000 miles and it now has 100700 miles so who knows how the person(s) before me drove it, probably not as hard as me but still. and so what happens when the clutch is totally shot and how would i know if the gearbox is actually messed up, sorry for acting like a stupid teen but hey ill have my time to drive slow when im retired.

swajames

At about 25 MPH, shift into 6th and after you've re-engaged the clutch start to accelerate briskly. If you see or hear your engine revs rise with no corresponding increase in acceleration you have a slipping clutch. If your clutch is good, your speed and the engine revs should rise in a broadly linear fashion. You can also try to (slowly) pull away from a standstill in third or fourth and see if you can get the car to move forward. If with gradual clutch engagement your car stalls or starts to pull away the clutch is probably OK. If your car doesn't stall cleanly, or you can apply power but get little to no forward motion, you can suspect your clutch is slipping. If your car still has the original clutch and you've driven it hard since you got it, it's quite probable that what you're seeing is indeed your clutch failing.

pukka

A neutral drop from 5k rpm??? I see a blown tranny in someone's future........

pukka

You'll also have plenty of time for foot patrols once you find out how much a new clutch and tranny will cost.

Techno79

If you started to crawl before you dumped the clutch then what it sounds like you've done is spun the flywheel at 5000rpm lightly touching the clutch. This would have started to burn away at the clutch so when you did dump the clutch, it was against a burnt surface and hence it took a while before it gained traction. The burning smell would have been from the burnt clutch. If it's only happened once then it shouldn't be a problem but I strongly recommend that you don't do that again as you'll be asking for trouble.

Most normal cars have not been designed with the durability to dump the clutch with high revs. Even top end sports cars with higher durability parts will have issues if you carry out this technique (I'm thinking Nissan Skylines, Evos etc).

With regards to knowing when the clutch is on the way out, as previously posted, if the clutch starts slipping under normal use (e.g. accelerating in 6th gear from low revs) then this will be the easiest indicator to spot.

Techno79

If you started to crawl before you dumped the clutch then what it sounds like you've done is spun the flywheel at 5000rpm lightly touching the clutch. This would have started to burn away at the clutch so when you did dump the clutch, it was against a burnt surface and hence it took a while before it gained traction. The burning smell would have been from the burnt clutch. If it's only happened once then it shouldn't be a problem but I strongly recommend that you don't do that again as you'll be asking for trouble.

Most normal cars have not been designed with the durability to dump the clutch with high revs. Even top end sports cars with higher durability parts will have issues if you carry out this technique (I'm thinking Nissan Skylines, Evos etc).

With regards to knowing when the clutch is on the way out, as previously posted, if the clutch starts slipping under normal use (e.g. accelerating in 6th gear from low revs) then this will be the easiest indicator to spot.

Bimmerchop69

neutral dropping is only on automatics. He clearly stated that his car has a clutch. Automatics have a torque converter with a hydraulic push rod thing lol. He should be fine doing burnouts. I don't think BMW designed the manual transmission to fail before either the clutch slips or the tires break static friction and burnout.

e60.teamegypt.4 is is very common for clutches to slip even if it is good under very spirited clutch engagement. Stock clutches(depending on the make, and model of the car) are rated close to the power output of its corresponding engine. In a burnout what should break free are the tires. If you install wider tires then your chances of burning out are reduced and slipping the clutch increases. If you want to do a good burnout you need to dump the clutch aggressively and not feather into it.