High temp / over heat warning on iDrive screen!
10-27-2012, 05:41 AM
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My Ride: 2006 530i
High temp / over heat warning on iDrive screen!
Hello,
I own an '06 530i. My wife called me yesterday after she left work and was heading home. Apparently a warning message came across the iDrive screen that read something like "temperature is too high, drive moderately to allow the engine to cool down." Then immediately after that she got this message, "engine overheated, stop engine, allow it cool down..."
We bought this car about 3 weeks ago
and it has just over 60K on it. I've checked around the web and see this isn' situation isn't uncommon with this car. She pulled into a gas station and waited about an hour for me to arrive. I checked the engine bay and didn't see any sign of leaking coolant or coolant splatter. I opened the radiator cap and did notice it was sorta loose or rather easy to unscrew. The coolant level was fine, but I did add a bit more BMW coolant just to top it up some. I started the car and the warning was gone. We drove the car back home (about 40 miles) and the car ran fine with no error messages. Its still running okay as of this posting.
Let me say I'm an advanced DIY'er and have done all the service on my other BMW ('99 328i). I'm a former mechanic and have a solid tool arsenal. My preference is to stay away from the Stealer. Have any of you ran into this issue with your E60's? What was the root cause? I have an idea of the obvious culprits, but I'd like to get your advice/experiences first.
I own an '06 530i. My wife called me yesterday after she left work and was heading home. Apparently a warning message came across the iDrive screen that read something like "temperature is too high, drive moderately to allow the engine to cool down." Then immediately after that she got this message, "engine overheated, stop engine, allow it cool down..."
We bought this car about 3 weeks ago
and it has just over 60K on it. I've checked around the web and see this isn' situation isn't uncommon with this car. She pulled into a gas station and waited about an hour for me to arrive. I checked the engine bay and didn't see any sign of leaking coolant or coolant splatter. I opened the radiator cap and did notice it was sorta loose or rather easy to unscrew. The coolant level was fine, but I did add a bit more BMW coolant just to top it up some. I started the car and the warning was gone. We drove the car back home (about 40 miles) and the car ran fine with no error messages. Its still running okay as of this posting.Let me say I'm an advanced DIY'er and have done all the service on my other BMW ('99 328i). I'm a former mechanic and have a solid tool arsenal. My preference is to stay away from the Stealer. Have any of you ran into this issue with your E60's? What was the root cause? I have an idea of the obvious culprits, but I'd like to get your advice/experiences first.
10-27-2012, 06:57 AM
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Maybe whoever serviced it last didn't properly tighten the coolant tank cap. They are different than even BMW's one or two generations back but your run of mill mechanic mightn't know how to latch it securely. That could trigger an error if it did not permit coolant pressure to build and permit proper circulation of coolant. It might also explain why you had to add coolant.
That said, since you only recently bought the car if you have a 30-90 day warranty I recommend you alert whoever sold it to you that you had the problem. As an FYI, since these iDrive messages can come and go I make it a point to use my cell phone to take a picture - JUST IN CASE it's something that doesn't get stored in the car's alert memory.
That said, since you only recently bought the car if you have a 30-90 day warranty I recommend you alert whoever sold it to you that you had the problem. As an FYI, since these iDrive messages can come and go I make it a point to use my cell phone to take a picture - JUST IN CASE it's something that doesn't get stored in the car's alert memory.
10-27-2012, 06:21 PM
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I'd say stop playing the guess it game and head up a local indy shop. Make sure they can pull all BMW specific error codes. I'm sure besides the abnormal temperature they will see electric water pump malfunction or something related.
Alternatively, invest $40 in K-CAN OBD2 adapter and read the codes yourself.
Once you have the codes we can discuss specifically.
Alternatively, invest $40 in K-CAN OBD2 adapter and read the codes yourself.
Once you have the codes we can discuss specifically.
10-28-2012, 06:04 AM
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My Ride: 2008 535i LCI with sports/premium package, Sports trans with paddle shifters, CF emblems, JB4 Software, Dinan Exhaust, Navigation, M5Tech body kit, Carbon wrap interrior trim and CIC Controller.
Could be several things. Water pump, fan, sensors. A good friend of mine had a failed relay or something like that, that was located up by the cowling. He had replaced a couple sensors while guessing and each time he thought he fixed it until in traffic only to get the overheat message again. A Indy shop in ATL discovered this relay or sensor that was actually located in a very odd place... After this fix, all has been just fine.
10-28-2012, 08:17 PM
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My Ride: 2008 535i Sport / Premium / Manual Trans
Sounds like the water pump. Same thing happened to my 535i w ~70k miles. Engine basically stopped running and I was able to slowly roll into a parking lot. Luckily this happened before I got on the highway. That would've been really really bad.
Had it towed to my independent sop and they verified tha my water pump was dead. Replacement was expensive, but it solved the problem.
Had it towed to my independent sop and they verified tha my water pump was dead. Replacement was expensive, but it solved the problem.
10-29-2012, 12:01 PM
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+1 on the electric water pump. Also listen to the fans. Is your engine fan running full speed and not shutting off. My 535i started over heating and it turned out to be the water pump. My only indication prior to the idrive alerts was the fan not turning off. Plugged up my code reader and it was indeed my water pump. Although Tonyb635 is correct, it could be a number of things. Never hurts to invest in a scan tool and read the codes yourself. I have a dedicated laptop with INPA, EDIABAS & NCS Expert installed so i can retrieve and read codes.
10-31-2012, 07:26 AM
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Invest in a diagnostic kit, INPA & DIS are now readily available on the Internet & they will tell you in detail what specific electronic errors are stored.
You say that the radiator (expansion tank) was kind of loose, this would allow coolant to evaporate out & cause the car to run hot. However you say that the coolant level was fine when you checked. If the coolant was OK level wise then low coolant was not the issue for the high temperature warning. If the coolant was low it would be worth getting a pressure test done on the system (you cold make your own pressure test kit form an old radiator cap, a tire valve & a cycle (track) pump).
However I don't think it's a leak, it sounds more like an issue with the waterproof,p or thermostat as the rest have been saying, both are electric in the N52 engine. Get the car along to a BMW specialist that has the right diagnostics kit, that way you avoid wasting money needlessly replacing parts, or worse, wiping the engine out due to a cooling issue.
You say that the radiator (expansion tank) was kind of loose, this would allow coolant to evaporate out & cause the car to run hot. However you say that the coolant level was fine when you checked. If the coolant was OK level wise then low coolant was not the issue for the high temperature warning. If the coolant was low it would be worth getting a pressure test done on the system (you cold make your own pressure test kit form an old radiator cap, a tire valve & a cycle (track) pump).
However I don't think it's a leak, it sounds more like an issue with the waterproof,p or thermostat as the rest have been saying, both are electric in the N52 engine. Get the car along to a BMW specialist that has the right diagnostics kit, that way you avoid wasting money needlessly replacing parts, or worse, wiping the engine out due to a cooling issue.
11-17-2012, 08:53 AM
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Overheat warning messages
What is the normal sequence of the overheat messages. Is there a massage if the electric pump did not start up normally?
I have a 06 525XI and have gotten the engine overheat/slow down message on the I drive screen three times. The first time was several months ago in the garage shortly after the first start up of the day. It went away and I assumed that it was a quirk since the engine had just been started. The second time was recently the morning after a 300 mile trip. The car was outside in a motel parking lot with temps around the freezing point. Same thing, came on for a moment and went away. The car was sitting there covered in frost with an overheat warning. All fluid levels fine, no loose cap. Latter that day after several start ups and 275 miles into the return trip at interstate speeds, the message came up again for a few moments. I pulled over to check things over and found nothing wrong. (no gages sucks) I drove it the rest of the way home and several short trips with no issues. Have ordered a new pump and t stat. Are there any tricks other than the bleed for the R&R? What is the deal with the aluminum screws?
Thanks for the help
Garry
I have a 06 525XI and have gotten the engine overheat/slow down message on the I drive screen three times. The first time was several months ago in the garage shortly after the first start up of the day. It went away and I assumed that it was a quirk since the engine had just been started. The second time was recently the morning after a 300 mile trip. The car was outside in a motel parking lot with temps around the freezing point. Same thing, came on for a moment and went away. The car was sitting there covered in frost with an overheat warning. All fluid levels fine, no loose cap. Latter that day after several start ups and 275 miles into the return trip at interstate speeds, the message came up again for a few moments. I pulled over to check things over and found nothing wrong. (no gages sucks) I drove it the rest of the way home and several short trips with no issues. Have ordered a new pump and t stat. Are there any tricks other than the bleed for the R&R? What is the deal with the aluminum screws?
Thanks for the help
Garry
11-17-2012, 09:44 AM
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I think it's a bit unwise to drop at least $500 in parts (electric pump and thermostat for N52B25) for something that could be just a sensor malfunction. $40 for a K-CAN cable + INPA are money spent well.
BMW says you need to replace aluminum screws ( there are 3).
BMW says you need to replace aluminum screws ( there are 3).