motopokep

Saw this dripping on the floor:



What's this red liquid dripping down the bushing? Is this transmission fluid? I reached around the bushing to make sure it's not coming from somewhere else and top of the bushing was dry. Where exactly is it coming from? Is this a DIY for an average basic maintenance guy?

l1tech

The bushings are liquid filled..looks like yours is ready for replacement. Replacement isn't too hard however you will need some way to press the bushing out and in unless you replace the whole arm.

motopokep

thanx L1tech. I'm pretty handy on basic maintenance (oil/filter, brakes, etc) so I'll probably figure this out. So I guess I'll just jack up the car at that side, undo the bolts. As far as pressing it out, I'll see what you mean when I'll get to that part. Is there a tool you can recommend to press it out?

jm545i

+1. Do consider replacing the arm, as many times the ball joint on the other end has worn just enough to show play not too far into the future, and with the price you'll pay to get someone to press the new bushing in you can recoup a good amount of the cost of a new arm. In the end it can be more cost effective, though I've done it both ways.

I'm also pretty sure you should do both sides at the same time - I'd bet the other one is on its way out as well if it hasn't started leaking already.

Be careful to follow the pre-load procedures before final tightening, or you'll be replacing that bushing again in the near future (been there!). The whole thing isn't complicated, just a few things to keep in mind.

motopokep

Bushings are sold in pairs only, $70. a single control arm with a bushing is $60. I think I can use a pair of clamps to push the bushing out and in, there's also a tool I can rent at autozone. It's a dilemma, buy a pair of bushings and keep an extra for future for the other side...or replace the whole arm.

Question...if I drive for a while like this, i.e. if most or all bushing liquid comes out, what's the risk? I probably won't get to this until couple weeks down the road. ...thanx.

What's a pre-load procedure and the torque specs? appreciate the help.

jm545i

Make sure you're getting OE/OEM parts for those prices - there is a difference. $60 sounds awfully low for an aluminum arm (and btw I'm not sure what arm we're talking about here, though the concepts are generally the same amongst the different front-end components).

I don't think it's a safety issue per se, beyond the odd handling quirks that having a front end that's not as tight as it should be. You may notice a shimmy or weird vibrations that would otherwise not be there, and all of these are hard on your steering system and other suspension components. While it's not an emergency, I wouldn't drive around too much with it that way.

Most pre-load procedures call for putting weights in the front seat to make sure the body is sitting at normal height. If you've lifted the car, you need to tighten that front end with the wheels on ramps or on a drive-on lift. Someone else will need to weigh in on torque specs, which I think differ slightly depending on what arm we're dealing with.