Help with some DME errors
11-24-2016, 12:05 PM
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My Ride: E60 530i
Help with some DME errors
2005 530i 6MT, 135k on dash.
Hello Everyone. The first thing I noticed is the car lacking power after warming up. For the first 5 to 8 mins after starting it cold, it drives like a dream. Once it warms up, it starts this hesitation thing where the rpm band is not smooth. It also bucks and surges at 3k rpm...its almost precisely at that point. If I floor it pass 3k it seems to be smooth, but with regular drive, it stumbles. The car has new spark plugs, coils, and MAF. I have cleared those codes before and the return the very next day. I also noticed once, while driving on the highway, roughly 65mph, I saw the rpm needle go dead (to 0) and flicker back up. It did this twice back to back. What was strange though, when it did this, there was no stumble in the car. It continued to coast along smoothly down the highway. The speed needle didn't budge, it stayed where it was at 65mph. Any ideas?
Forgot to add, it has a new AGM battery and registered to the car in July and the alternator rebuilt in Sep of this year.
What can I do to get this car to drive normal even after warming up?
Hello Everyone. The first thing I noticed is the car lacking power after warming up. For the first 5 to 8 mins after starting it cold, it drives like a dream. Once it warms up, it starts this hesitation thing where the rpm band is not smooth. It also bucks and surges at 3k rpm...its almost precisely at that point. If I floor it pass 3k it seems to be smooth, but with regular drive, it stumbles. The car has new spark plugs, coils, and MAF. I have cleared those codes before and the return the very next day. I also noticed once, while driving on the highway, roughly 65mph, I saw the rpm needle go dead (to 0) and flicker back up. It did this twice back to back. What was strange though, when it did this, there was no stumble in the car. It continued to coast along smoothly down the highway. The speed needle didn't budge, it stayed where it was at 65mph. Any ideas?
Forgot to add, it has a new AGM battery and registered to the car in July and the alternator rebuilt in Sep of this year.
What can I do to get this car to drive normal even after warming up?
Last edited by Beemz530; 11-24-2016 at 12:11 PM.
11-24-2016, 06:37 PM
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My Ride: 05 530i M54
Model Year: 05 530i
Engine: 3.0 M54
Does the lights not work? The alternator was rebuilt with what quality of parts. The only thing that should of needed changed was the regulator. It could be the regulator is bad again or your battery is not charged. I would check the battery voltage first while driving you should get your answer then if you need a new regulator.
11-25-2016, 06:41 AM
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Good morning! What lights are you referring to? The error that I was getting on the center screen when the alternator was going bad, I'm no longer getting (so I'm assuming it was done correctly?!?!?). The battery is pretty much brand new and the car starts up with ease even after sitting in the garage for a week. Where can I buy one of those cigarette lighter volt things locally so I can check voltage while driving?
Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply
11-25-2016, 02:02 PM
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I passed by Walmart and it was too crowded with Black Friday shoppers. So I went to Harbor Freight and grabbed this one. I saw a member on her mention it, so I grabbed it. The first photo is with the car off, 2nd one is with the car running. If I'm reading it correctly, everything in on par as far as the battery and alternator are concerned (correct me if I'm wrong). What about the IBS cable thing that's attached to the negative cable in the trunk, how do I check that to see if its any good?
11-28-2016, 12:06 PM
#6
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2005 530i 6MT, 135k on dash.
Hello Everyone. The first thing I noticed is the car lacking power after warming up. For the first 5 to 8 mins after starting it cold, it drives like a dream. Once it warms up, it starts this hesitation thing where the rpm band is not smooth. It also bucks and surges at 3k rpm...its almost precisely at that point. If I floor it pass 3k it seems to be smooth, but with regular drive, it stumbles. The car has new spark plugs, coils, and MAF. I have cleared those codes before and the return the very next day. I also noticed once, while driving on the highway, roughly 65mph, I saw the rpm needle go dead (to 0) and flicker back up. It did this twice back to back. What was strange though, when it did this, there was no stumble in the car. It continued to coast along smoothly down the highway. The speed needle didn't budge, it stayed where it was at 65mph. Any ideas?
Forgot to add, it has a new AGM battery and registered to the car in July and the alternator rebuilt in Sep of this year.
What can I do to get this car to drive normal even after warming up?
Hello Everyone. The first thing I noticed is the car lacking power after warming up. For the first 5 to 8 mins after starting it cold, it drives like a dream. Once it warms up, it starts this hesitation thing where the rpm band is not smooth. It also bucks and surges at 3k rpm...its almost precisely at that point. If I floor it pass 3k it seems to be smooth, but with regular drive, it stumbles. The car has new spark plugs, coils, and MAF. I have cleared those codes before and the return the very next day. I also noticed once, while driving on the highway, roughly 65mph, I saw the rpm needle go dead (to 0) and flicker back up. It did this twice back to back. What was strange though, when it did this, there was no stumble in the car. It continued to coast along smoothly down the highway. The speed needle didn't budge, it stayed where it was at 65mph. Any ideas?
Forgot to add, it has a new AGM battery and registered to the car in July and the alternator rebuilt in Sep of this year.
What can I do to get this car to drive normal even after warming up?
Try disconnecting it and drive the car.
Also which message came first in your post above? That may also be a hint as to what is the cause, it appears to be some sort of communication error that is occurring and this could also happen from voltage supply issues that occurred before you replaced the battery.
One suggestion if not already tried is to disconnect battery overnight and touch positive and neg. cable to ensure no power is left in the circuit. This might correct your problem otherwise a dealer re-program job may fix it, should cost less than $200.
Lastly since you have DIS, have you tried to follow its recommendation for the test Plan?
Last edited by cmyachtie; 11-28-2016 at 12:09 PM.